Wheel hop

[msbaugh]

I've got bad wheel hop with the Challenger.  I've got radial t/a's, so no, not much traction behind the 440.  It's got some really old front shocks and air shocks on the back with one line to both ran through the inside of the trunk.  Rear springs seem fine, no sag.  I've been meaning to replace the air shocks but since they worked fine for the time being and I had more important things to take care of Ive been ignoring it... I'm thinking about putting some Bilstein shocks on there to stiffen it up a little bit... could this probably help the wheel hop issue?  It's annoying, whenever I do hook up, the damn thing bounces around for 3 seconds before I really can get going.  Also would it be bright to stuff some more air into those rears/raise the height a little while I waited for some new ones?  I don't like the idea of it sitting on the rear shocks too much   

Thanks again fellas

[ChallengerHK]

Shocks could be a problem, but one thing I would do first is check the tires. Jack up a corner, position something so it's barely away from the tread and spin the wheel to see if the tires are really round.

[Chryco Psycho]

The front section of the springs maybe too weak , adding 1/2 leafs going forward only will help also clamping the front section with a square top U bolt will stiffen the front section as well .

[msbaugh]

caltracs? lol

Those are good ideas... Im going to let all the air out and see how worn the springs really are.  Then fill them back up a little less than they are now, that should help for the time being

[Chryco Psycho]

My experience with Caltracs has been that they are completely usless

[MTS-Challenger]

Sounds like the spring are twisting (wrapping) under load. Some least expensive way to fix this in the following order is too -


1. Add seperate lines to each air shock. Now you can balance them for street use and drag racing (hard launches require more air pressure in the passenger side).

2. Add poly bushings to the springs. That old rubber is just flexing around causing more defliction.
 http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/lespbuse.html

3. Add traction bars - (one of my favorites is Lakewoods, it gives that old school look, doesn't cost allot and everyone under estimates how well these really work).
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/LAK-20470/
http://calvertracing.com/

4. Add an adjustable pinion snubber (this does the trick)
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/adpinsnib.html

Here is some additional info about the rear springs.
http://www.afcoracing.com/tech_pages/leaf.shtml

Enjoy! 

[Super Blue 72]

My  , get rid of the air shocks.  They have air in them (as I guess since you are going to let the air out of them) and they aren't going to do much to control the oscilations of the springs to help the wheel hop.

Oh yeah, another thing to help the wheel hop: Don't step on the gas pedal so freaking hard!!!! 

[msbaugh]

My  , get rid of the air shocks.  They have air in them (as I guess since you are going to let the air out of them) and they aren't going to do much to control the oscilations of the springs to help the wheel hop.

Oh yeah, another thing to help the wheel hop: Don't step on the gas pedal so freaking hard!!!! 

You mean get rid of my lead foot? Haha yeah right.
For what it's worth I was kidding about the caltracs!!
I went to put air in the shocks... And guess what? There wasn't hardly any air in there! Hmm.. I think I'm just going to order some kyb gas-a-just monosprings

[Super Blue 72]

Not exactly sure but from what I hear the KYB Gas Adjust give a very firm ride ir you like that sorta ride. 

[Aracer]

My experience with Caltracs has been that they are completely usless

     Glad you said from experience. I figured as much, from the complex adjustment, and leaf selections.
      For my A-body I like the 2,800 lb SS Passenger side for driver side too. Just flip the bottom two segments 180* to bias the drivers side to be slower.  Then the distance to the wells will be equal. The real drivers side SS ends up straighter when weighted down and sets the tire back until it hit the back of the well. That's why I came up with this solution. ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,still waiting for an answer to the trim? I may have tapped the skinny trim molding frontward to release the Gill,,,,,,? I'll try with a wood shim and a small plastic covered dead blow hammer.
http://www.1320go.com/infineon/livetiming.php

[msbaugh]

Not exactly sure but from what I hear the KYB Gas Adjust give a very firm ride ir you like that sorta ride. 

I might actually go with comp. engineering instead.. I really like the 3 way adjustable ones. I can dial it in and trial and error.

[Chryco Psycho]

QA1 has adjustables 16 position with a dial on the side much more user friendly

[Aracer]

I'm using the extra long, A-body, 3 way adj. Comp Eng. Drag shocks, on the back @ middle setting and old Gabriel "Red ryders" 50/50's up front with .820 bars.  On the E-body +2" H.D. leafs and Summit 3-ways-hardest setting, and race country 90/10's on the front and .920 H.D. torsions. And it digs in perfect.    Although I might go to the harder rear setting to help staging and power braking by slowing down the "rise" on the A-body. And buy those QA1's if they are for drag racing.

[blknout]

lose the air shocks

[mopar12372]

or   get an adjustible pinion snubber/ clamp the forward part of the spring  , this should get rid of the wheel hop . stay away from the tractionbars thats a chevy/ford thing  mopars are a different breed .