gauge cluster lights and others not working

[MEK-Dangerfield]

Not to hijack this thread but I think this might be a useful question as well.

I'm about to put my dash back together and I'd like to test all the switches/knobs before putting it back in the car. I have a 12V powersource and multimeter/cont tester so I should be able to see if it works properly if I know the pinout of each switch/knob.

Has anyone does this?

Thanks,
Bryan

That's a good idea.

You won't need to connect power to any of them, just use an Ohm meter. I can help with the head light and dimmer switch, but there is too darn many connections on that wiper switch.     I'll take a look at my shop manual to see what is what. Do you have a 2-speed, or variable speed wiper switch? I have the variable switch, so maybe that is a little more involved.   

[HP_Cuda]

The great part is I can keep it simple because I have a 2 speed wiper.

As good a place to start as any!

Thanks,
Bryan

[MEK-Dangerfield]

Bryan,

   Epic failure here.      I know I used an Ohm meter and figured the switches out, but that was too long ago to remember. I can look at the shop manual and trace the wires for the wiper switch to the bulk head, but I don''t have a diagram of the other side of the bulk head connections.   

So let's move on to what I CAN help with...The dimmer switch is easy. Connect your meter to either of the end connectors and the middle connector. You should see the meter vary as you turn the knob of the switch. Your resistance shouldn't be higher than 20K. If your switch is like most, you will read infinite and it will need replaced.   

The light switch should show continuity between the top and bottom terminals when the headlights are on. Between the bottom terminal and the second terminal from the top when parking lights are on. The middle terminal feeds the dimmer switch,  and the 4th terminal is not used.

  Mike

[HP_Cuda]

Hey Mike

Thanks for the heads up, I'm guessing the wiper knob would be the same with ascending resistance as you turn it twice.

This will be helpful to know they work before putting everything back together and preventing a angry teardown otherwise.

 

B

[MEK-Dangerfield]

I'm glad I could be of semi help anyway.   

There are two harnesses the meet the wiper switch if you have electric windshield washers. 

[HP_Cuda]

Well I have the standard 2 speed wiper switch so I'll have to use the open fourth and put a switch in there for the wiper wash motor. I'm thinking a switch like the headlight so it won't stand out but I haven't made my mind up yet.

B

[challenger_affair]

Mike, thanks for the tips, I'm really trying to learn from this!  A couple questions:  Hypothetically, if I have continuity at the dimmer terminal of the light switch, does that mean I have narrowed my issue to the fuse block or the dimmer switch?  and does the fuse for the cluster lamp come between the light switch and dimmer, or after the dimmer? 

I guess I'm trying to understand if I can know whether there is a problem at the fuse block even if I test the dimmer and find it is dead. 

[72cudamaan]

Mike, thanks for the tips, I'm really trying to learn from this!  A couple questions:  Hypothetically, if I have continuity at the dimmer terminal of the light switch, does that mean I have narrowed my issue to the fuse block or the dimmer switch?  and does the fuse for the cluster lamp come between the light switch and dimmer, or after the dimmer? 

I guess I'm trying to understand if I can know whether there is a problem at the fuse block even if I test the dimmer and find it is dead.

Okay challenger_affair (c.a for these purposes), lets start over. Using a test light that is connected to a good ground, does the tester light up when you
touch to either side of the fuse in question (#8?) ?

[challenger_affair]

Okay challenger_affair (c.a for these purposes), lets start over. Using a test light that is connected to a good ground, does the tester light up when you
touch to either side of the fuse in question (#8?) ?

The tester does not light up on either end of this fuse (top right). 

[72cudamaan]

Okay, then you first need to find out why your test light doesn't light up on the power side of the fuse. You have narrowed down your search to the fuse block or the bulkhead connector to the fuse block. Also check I sent you a pm

[MEK-Dangerfield]

FWIW...The power comes into the fuses from the middle of the fuse box. 

Does that make sense?   

[72cudamaan]

FWIW...The power comes into the fuses from the middle of the fuse box. 

Does that make sense?   

   Power is on the left side of the right fuse bank and power is on the right side of the left fuse bank

[challenger_affair]

I think I undertsand what you're saying.  So its interesting that based on the wiring diagram this is the only fuse that doesn't appear to get power in the same way the fuses in the lower part of the block do, which is via the main battery feed.  On the left side of this fuse a single wire connects from the panel dimmer.  On the right side 2 wires exit, one to the radio, the other to the ignition switch. 

I take this to mean power enters the fuse from the dimmer, does that sound right?

Andy, thanks, you are very generous!  I would like to take you up on your offer to talk if that is easier.  Unfortunately something has come up and I won't be able to call today.  I'll try arrange something when I know I'm more available...

[HP_Cuda]

Mike

I checked the headlight switch and found with the cont tester that the top and bottom pins are definitely the headlights! But the parking lights did not test true from the second pin from the top and the bottom pin. Whats more painful is I have a spare headlight switch and its acting just the same! 

I had good success testing the 2 speed wiper and found that position one was the very bottom pin and the second horizontal pin down in the middle. The second position was from the pin at the very top and the second pin down in the middle again.

The dimmer proved out 20k of resistence, now to just figure out the parking lights!!!

Bryan



 

:rebel:Bryan,

   Epic failure here.      I know I used an Ohm meter and figured the switches out, but that was too long ago to remember. I can look at the shop manual and trace the wires for the wiper switch to the bulk head, but I don''t have a diagram of the other side of the bulk head connections.   

So let's move on to what I CAN help with...The dimmer switch is easy. Connect your meter to either of the end connectors and the middle connector. You should see the meter vary as you turn the knob of the switch. Your resistance shouldn't be higher than 20K. If your switch is like most, you will read infinite and it will need replaced.   

The light switch should show continuity between the top and bottom terminals when the headlights are on. Between the bottom terminal and the second terminal from the top when parking lights are on. The middle terminal feeds the dimmer switch,  and the 4th terminal is not used.

  Mike

[MEK-Dangerfield]

The dimmer proved out 20k of resistence, now to just figure out the parking lights!!!

Bryan



 

Bryan,

Ugh. It's mighty strange that you have 2 light switches acting the same way. Let's verify something. I'm assuming I'm looking at the back of the switch in the upright position in the shop manual. Terminal 1 and 2 are horizontal pins. Terminal 4 is horizontal and 5 is vertical. How does it look on your end?


  Mike