Setting up a 340 six pack.

[bentpshrods]

  Just after buying my cuda I had the chance to get a 340 six pack set up. After sitting on the garage shelf for the last 30+ years ----Matt(black71) has talked me into putting it on this spring.  After a lot of checking I have found out my set up is the aftermarket package that was available over the counter thru direct connection/hustle stuff program. The competitive upgrade to the six pack. I have the 4782 center carb with the 4783 end carbs. These are the non vacume secondaries---full mechanical set up with accelerator pumps in all carbs.  I will rebuild them this winter. What I need are pictures of how the throttle bracket and the brackets for AT kick down linkage look like. I am also missing the air cleaner base assembly. Any good places to buy this. Is a metal base plate better than the fiberglass ones? I am also going to have to reroute the fuel lines since these carbs have the inlets on the drivers side. I have found some stuff from promax that are for six packs.  Any other vendors specializing in six pack stuff.  Thanks  Doug

[Chryco Psycho]

Great system . there is no way to reroute the fuel lines , I bent the steel lines over the linkage , it is difficult to do & still clear the air cleaner , I would use the steel base plate for the air cleaner . The throttle bracket is a holley 20-7 but you will have to move the lower linkage inside then use the factory pin & it will all line up .

[black71]

Or a better idea is to just sell it to me and be hassle free

[KillerBee]

Fuel lines can be made from slightly modified factory setup but I'm not sure if the factory Six Pack air cleaner is gonna clear how high and straight the fuel lines go in on that side.

Other air cleaner options are available depending on hood clearance.

Some parts are similar to Ford Tri power stuff.

[Mopar Mitch]

The picture shows the fuel bowls as having side-hung-floats.  Those are NOT desirable for any hi-G cornering as bogging will occur.  I suggest to get the proper center-hung floats and you'll be able to get the correct fuel lines, as well.   Also, I highly recommend PROMAX for their adjustable front/rear base plates (especially to purchase, at the least, one base-plate for the rear with the angled adjustments... you can still adjust the factory-stock front base plate by removing the lead plugs).  Further, PROMAX has a center-carb fuel block that can be better than the factory stock one.. they'll set it up for you per your engine specs.  At the least, get the rear base plate from them.  (PROMAX is located in Indianapolis.)

[KillerBee]

Back in the day these carbs were sold by Direct Connection for modified DRAG race cars with bigger cams(with low vacuum) headers, high compression, custom race Six Pack intakes etc.
Never heard any complaints about the mechnical carbs from the drag or street racers.
I actually had 2 complete NOS sets of mechanical 4782/83 carbs about 7-8 years ago, sold them both.

Barry Grant came out with a set of carbs called Six Shooters with the fuel lines on the drivers side.
They didn't get very good reviews but the fuel lines looked interesting. (see pic)
I tried to get Barry Grant to sell me just the lines and carb linkages for my 4782/83 carbs but they refused.

Instead of the Promax base plate(s) I tried the custom made idle mixture screws linked below recently in my rear stock Six Pack carb with good result.
The drivers side screw was a little difficult to access but once I got the technique figured out it went great.

http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=Deals&Number=7046838&Searchpage=1&Main=7046838&Words=+69sixpackbee&topic=&Search=true#Post7046838

[Cuda54]

The carbs are all wrong on the 340 intake they should look like the ones on the 440 six pack. Looks like a lot of air leaks on the right side of the carbs too. The fuel lines should be on the right side of the carbs too. I had a 70 AAR 340-6 but now I have a 1972 440-6 with 525HP. And once you get the right carbs on there and get them set you will have some fun. The set up you have there now looks like more headaches than it is worth. It is better to set it up right the first time and it will tune up better when done right.

[black71]

The carbs are all wrong on the 340 intake they should look like the ones on the 440 six pack. Looks like a lot of air leaks on the right side of the carbs too. The fuel lines should be on the right side of the carbs too. I had a 70 AAR 340-6 but now I have a 1972 440-6 with 525HP. And once you get the right carbs on there and get them set you will have some fun. The set up you have there now looks like more headaches than it is worth. It is better to set it up right the first time and it will tune up better when done right.

? Check the comment above

[nqkjw]

I have exactly the same carb setup on an Aluminium Edelbrock 440-6 1971 date coded manifold.
I intend to overhaul them and fit them to my challenger when I get around to it.
I'll be making my own linkages and fuel lines as I reckon I can do better than OEM.
These carbs are the same as Ford tripower except the linkage part on the throttle shaft is slightly different.
Here's the Ford parts view



Also on my 69 Barracuda I set up my own on a Weiand/Direct Connection sixpack superstock manifold.
They are just routine 2bbl Holleys that I chopped up to make them fit.
Also made my own linkages and fuel delivery.
The 2 outboard carbs are 350s and are my primary carbs.
The centre carb is a 650 and is my secondary(I call it my thirdary )








Out of interest,I also have an STR14-6 manifold which I'm still contemplating what to build on it

And re the side hung vs centre hung float bowls - if you're running metering blocks on all three carbs you HAVE to run side hung bowls as the carbs physically won't fit on a std manifold with centre hung.

[Cuda54]

But I know what carb were on my AAR 340-6 and the fuel lines were not on the linkage side of the carbs.

[Changin Gears]

I have these carbs on my 64 Polara convert's 440.  I never like vacuum secondaries with a stick shift so I went this way.  It really is a great setup.  The linkage came in the box from edelbrock with the manifold.  The fuel lines (except the front one) are from a vacuum setup kit.  This does work with the factory air cleaner with a dimple to clear the front fitting.

[Cuda54]

nqkjw
Your linkage is a little wild. On all of the six packs I had or see on Mopars the center carb was the main one. Then the linkage would open the front and rear carbs. I think it would be harder to tune it any other way. On my AAR I put a little bolt in the slot to make it manual. It went from 3000 right to 7000 right now but I had a 4 speed with a 391 posi. I had to let the vacuum open the outboards. Now I have a 1972 Cuda 440 with 3 Holley 2bbls and the carb look the same as the ones on the AAR 340 engine. I am 58 and have been playing with cars for many years. And have set up some 2 4bbl cars Fords GMs and Mopars. I always like to set it up like the factory did to make it easier to tune.

[black71]

But I know what carb were on my AAR 340-6 and the fuel lines were not on the linkage side of the carbs.

They are a direct connection part, not factory vacuum like original six pack cars came with

[nqkjw]

But I know what carb were on my AAR 340-6 and the fuel lines were not on the linkage side of the carbs.

That would be right since the correct vacuum carbs use the centre hung bowls.

[nqkjw]

nqkjw
Your linkage is a little wild.

Can we say creative??? They work fine and tune well.

On all of the six packs I had or see on Mopars the center carb was the main one. Then the linkage would open the front and rear carbs.

No disagreement here.

I think it would be harder to tune it any other way.

It was actually easier to tune this setup the way I've done it for a few reasons.
Firstly a 650 2bbl has no primary venturi so are VERY difficult to tune for mid range.They were originally designed as a speedway carb for classes restricted to a 2bbl carb.They will idle fine and perform well at WOT but anywhere in between is a real ***** to get right.
Multiple carbs is what I am good with and in a staged setup as this I find it easier to tune 2 carbs as primaries rather than 2 secondaries.Bearing in mind this is something I figured out myself.There was no factory settings or manuals to refer to.Here's a link to a thread on an Aussie forum abt the building and tuning of the setup if you're interested.
http://www.moparmarketforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=15213
Out of interest the 350s are now running 69jets and 102s in the 650 and I DID finally get to high 11s with only 303 rwhp.
 

I am 58 and have been playing with cars for many years. And have set up some 2 4bbl cars Fords GMs and Mopars. I always like to set it up like the factory did to make it easier to tune.

I've read much of your stuff before and repect what you write.
I'm a little younger than you at 54yo but have also played with cars my whole life.
Here's a couple from my mis spent youth






Always worked on multiple carbs and have a reputation for it.
Twin 4bbls are are easy.I do things different because I like the challenge.

Below is a pic of the next one I'm building.It's only dummied up at this stage.
What you're looking at is early 60s longhorn crossram manifolds modified to fit on later model 906 heads,rocker covers and hp exhaust manifolds.
They are sporting a pair of 450cfm single pumper mechanical secondary Holleys.
Once again I made the linkages and fuel delivery myself.
The top end will be going on the 413 in my 1960 Imperial.