Best Torsion Bar for 340 Challenger or Cuda

[HP2]

Clocking refers to the hex ends of the torsion bar. If you take one out ans set it on the floor so one  hex face is flat on the ground, the hex at the opposite end should be offset some number of degrees. The bigger the bar, the less hex that is needed, so a stock t-bar should have a 30* offset while a huge  1.24 bar would have almost no offset.

If you had one side that wouldn't hold ride height and was a bear to get out, I'd be concerned about a t-bar socket possibly tearing inside its mount in the frame, or the bushing in the control arm being torn and not holding its set.

[AAR6BBL]

OK HP,
I am with you so far, but then would that not require that they be installed with the offset in a certain direction?
If so, if the bar isn't marked do you just figure out which way it is offset and install it in a certain geometry (hence the clocking term?)
I haven't measured the bars but they look like they would go in in any orientation, but again if they are offset, I would assume that the offset needs to be oriented in a certain direction.
Or am I overthinking this?
Greg

[HP2]

The offset is such that the bars need to be oriented left/right. Once left and right is determined, they can go in either end, although the factory put them with the embossed part #s in the fixed anchor.

However, this offset is only on smaller diameter bars so that can generate a certain amount of pre-load in them when installed. As the diameter increases, the need for this pre-load, and thus the offset, is reduced because of the higher rates. This is why on small diameter bars, you need to remove the upper control arm bumper to get enough suspension drop to insert the hexes properly. By contrast, a 1.24 bar needs to be installed at nearly ride height for the hexes to align.

[BergmanAutoCraft]

Clocking refers to the front and rear flats of the hexagon ends. Factory sized bars if laid down on its side would have one flat on the table, floor, whatever and the opposing side would be on a point. Aftermarket, larger bars don't need the preload like OE bars, so they are the same on both sides. Generally, 1" and larger are similar on both sides.

[AAR6BBL]

Thanks for the feedback guys, I am a long way from putting it back together, but since I blew the budget out of the water already I am looking at possible upgrades to the shocks, steering box and bars going forward.
 
Greg

[soundcontrol]

Thanks for the feedback guys, I am a long way from putting it back together, but since I blew the budget out of the water already I am looking at possible upgrades to the shocks, steering box and bars going forward.
 
Greg

I know that feeling, I got all suspension, steering and brake upgrades, now when looking at my 340 out of the car, I start thinking, hmmm isn't it better to put in a new Hemi right away....