Author Topic: Duff's - 1971 'Cuda 383 4spd B5 Blue  (Read 51073 times)

Offline Duff

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Re: Duff's Dream
« Reply #30 on: December 03, 2012 - 03:04:47 PM »
I think this is the pic you're looking for?  It's what's left of a union plant worker sticker I think.




Offline Jamiez

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Re: Duff's Dream
« Reply #31 on: December 03, 2012 - 04:39:54 PM »
It is a union.
GMP Local 7a Tiffin, Ohio.

Offline usraptr

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Re: Duff's Dream
« Reply #32 on: December 03, 2012 - 07:08:19 PM »
Just found this thread!  Nice find!   :2thumbs:  Keep us posted on your progress!
1970 Plymouth 'Cuda.  Matching numbers 440 U Code, 4 speed pistol grip, Rallye dash, AM 8 Track, Shaker hood, 15 inch rallye wheels, Dana 60 4.10, Super Track Pak.  One of 134 - 440 "U" coupes codes built in 1970 and one of 100 - 440 Super Track Paks built in 1970.

Restoration pictures at:  http://spanks4thememory.smugmug.com/Cars/70-Cuda/7240639_M24oi#465274575_2MBqW
(Edited 8-1-17)

"usraptr" = United States raptor - bird of prey = United States Bald Eagle.  FYI, somebody else thought of it first so I had to drop the "O" in raptor.

Offline jimynick

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Re: Duff's Dream
« Reply #33 on: December 03, 2012 - 10:50:09 PM »
That's a beauty of a find! Congrats and good luck on the restoration.  :thumbsup:

Offline AARuFAST

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Re: Duff's Dream
« Reply #34 on: December 04, 2012 - 12:09:01 AM »
First have the motor, heads, exhaust manifolds and crank MAGNE FLUXED if you are going to use them.
Prevention from grenading engine when you first put your lead foot to the floor.



« Last Edit: December 04, 2012 - 12:15:05 AM by AARuFAST »
1970 AAR Cuda
1970 Gran Coupe Ragtop. 1 of 66
Gran Cpe Convertible 1 yr only.

" I Want to Ride "

" I tried to be normal once...
it was the most boring
2 minutes of my life!!!!"

Offline moparmaniac59

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Re: Duff's Dream
« Reply #35 on: December 04, 2012 - 08:22:36 PM »
Magnaflux is actually a trade name for a dye penetrant product which he mentions at the end of the video, but what he demonstrates is not a magnaflux process but a magnetic particle test or "MT" test. Both are very effective for finding cracks and as he explained, you can't do an "MT" on an aluminum block, but have to resort to a dye penetrant test.  :2thumbs:

                                                                            Matt B.
Matt

Offline Duff

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Re: Duff's Dream
« Reply #36 on: January 04, 2013 - 01:22:06 PM »
Made a bit of progress on the 'Cuda.  Bought myself a new Miller 140 (thanks for your help on this board members!).  Got started welding by chopping up some tire racks at my shop and rewelding them.  Seems waaaaay easier than I thought it would be.  I've just done it a few times and it's not a terrible process at all.  I'm using 75/25 argon co2 and .030 non-flux core welding wire.  I'm about ready to start on my floor pan but i've gotta figure out if my panels are correct to go in the car cause I think the guy who I bought the car from bought this metal 10+ years ago.  The floorpan looks correct but the trunk pan doesn't.  Also, I see both one and two-piece floor pans, which should I get?  Gotta still buy spot weld drill bits but I got my grinder pads and wire wheels.  Also, should I spot weld the drivers and passenger floor pans or butt weld them??? Gonna try and search some threads to figure this out. 

I also took my dash pad out, steering wheel, plastic surrounding pieces etc in an effort not to mess them up when welding, but I don't think i'll go much further with deconstruction of my dash area.  I want to cleanup the metal in the area, get the floor pan in, prime it, paint it, and get the car on the road as a driver.  When i've got 60K in the bank 5 years down the road maybe i'll do a more comprehensive restoration. 

As far as the dash goes, I learned a few lessons, like how everything comes apart with 3/8" or 7/16" sockets/wrenches.  Also having only worked on chebbies and fords, it's awesome to me as an engineer that this car's plastic dash pieces are screwed in from the back side instead of the front.  Sure it's tougher to get them out, but they're extra solidly held in place and the plastic isn't cracking like my '72 Riviera's junky junk panels.  All in all, the cuda dash took me a solid 6 hours to get out of the car.  Here are some pics of where i'm at: 

Offline Duff

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Re: Duff's Dream
« Reply #37 on: January 04, 2013 - 01:45:24 PM »
Detroit muscle, eh?   :clueless:

Offline dutch

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Re: Duff's Dream
« Reply #38 on: January 04, 2013 - 02:01:18 PM »
nice score on the welder , the only way to go  :2thumbs:   take some time practicing thin sheetmetal before hitting the car  :2thumbs:
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Offline anlauto

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Re: Duff's Dream
« Reply #39 on: January 04, 2013 - 02:33:48 PM »
Why torture yourself...Take the dash frame out of the car, restore and fully assembly it on the bench, then put it back in the car....
I've taught you everything you know.....but I haven't taught you everything I know !
www.alangallantautomotiverestoration.com

Offline Duff

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Re: Duff's Dream
« Reply #40 on: January 04, 2013 - 02:52:05 PM »
Maybe i'm missing something.... is that the best way to get this done? 

Can I take the entire dash out, put it all together, then put the whole thing back into the car in one piece?  I tried to get the whole thing out in one piece and had a tough time doing it, so that's why I ended up taking just the dash pad out.  If there's a better way i'm all ears.   :2thumbs:

Also, am I an idiot for not stripping the whole thing and getting it blasted?

Offline anlauto

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Re: Duff's Dream
« Reply #41 on: January 04, 2013 - 03:04:50 PM »
Yes...it takes me on average of 20 mins to remove the full dash assembly.

YES you should blast the whole car first.

Check out my web site for lots of "how to" pictures www.alangallantautomotiverestoration.com
I've taught you everything you know.....but I haven't taught you everything I know !
www.alangallantautomotiverestoration.com

Offline Duff

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Re: Duff's Dream
« Reply #42 on: January 04, 2013 - 05:45:14 PM »
Here are some pics of the replacement metal that came with the car.  I'm thinking I should probably get some new AMD stuff.  What do you guys think???  Save it or sell it?


Offline anlauto

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Re: Duff's Dream
« Reply #43 on: January 04, 2013 - 06:00:03 PM »
The replacement sheet metal you have is no longer the "best quality" available.
You have to decide what level of quality you're aiming for first.
You can fight with that cheap crap and make it work, the results will be "okay" or you can buy the new AMD stuff and your job will go easier and the results will be much better.

The panels you have are practically worthless, so don't count on selling them for much money.

As for your question in the private message....Get yourself a factory service manual for 1971 Plymouth....They reproduce them in paper form or CD version.
I've taught you everything you know.....but I haven't taught you everything I know !
www.alangallantautomotiverestoration.com

Offline jimynick

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Re: Duff's Dream - 71 'Cuda 383 4spd
« Reply #44 on: January 04, 2013 - 06:07:53 PM »
Personally, I'd sell that partial stuff and buy 1 piece. I bought AMD stuff and while it's not perfect, it's pretty good and the misery of welding in 2 pieces and dealing with the fit, welding and grinding made it the way to go. As a bonus, it's nicely coated rather than that bare stuff. Fix rust once, period. Good luck and your welding sure seems up to snuff; just take the time to fit the stuff nicely before you use those skills.  :2cents: