Author Topic: Its lookin' like it time for an upgrade - Passed the road test!  (Read 38412 times)

Offline brads70

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Re: Its lookin' like it time for an upgrade - STRUT RODS??
« Reply #60 on: January 23, 2013 - 05:18:29 PM »
IMO you want a " well planted tire" reguardless of what engine you have . The last thing you want is the LCA moving around when the suspension is working. That would make for a horrible feeling/handling car. That would also pound out the LCA bushing in short order too.
IMO the advantage to the heim joint over the stock style bushing is more suspension travel and the big one is being able to adjust the LCA to get it in it's "sweet spot" meaning were the bushing is not binding. That's all they do is hold the LCA were it's suposed to be during suspension travel. More suspension travel will allow the tire to maintain a better contact patch especialy during cornering. What I didn't like about all the aftermarket designs was they were solid mounted to the k-frame. I read lots of complaints of it loosening up. I would also guess solid mounting would make for a more harsh ride than the stock set up. I made mine so they mounted to the k frame using poly bushings to avoid a harsh ride and so I didn't have to worry about the bolt coming loose all the time.
Here is a link to my junk I made?   
http://s651.photobucket.com/albums/uu240/B_Richmond/Mopar%20adjustable%20strut%20rod/
Your most likley not going to be doing much autocrossing with a original style Hemi up front so I would just use the stock strut rod set up if I were you? Not money well spent in your case IMO. Your just after better handling/cornering as I understand it? Stock set up IS really outdated to put it kindly. ( torsion bar rates and sway bar rates) I would consider the greaseable pins and bushings from FF though? If you want a comprimise than look at FF adjstabe strut rod? Still mounts in rubber and you can still adjust to get the "sweet spot"   http://www.firmfeel.com/adjstrut.htm
The biggest issue with Mopar front ends is bump steer and soft torsion bar and sway bar rates. The last 2 are the easiest to solve.
That's my 2 cents anyhow?  :dunno:
Brad
1970 Challenger 451stroker/4L60 auto OD
Barrie,Ontario,Canada
Proud to own one of the best cars ever made!!!!!

My restoration thread 
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=59072.0
 My handling upgrade post
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=73985.0




Offline HP2

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Re: Its lookin' like it time for an upgrade - STRUT RODS??
« Reply #61 on: January 25, 2013 - 11:43:24 AM »
James from P-S-T responded on b-bodies -

correct me if I am wrong but wouldn't it be up and down movement and not fore and aft as the body rolls in hard cornering one side of the suspension is forced down while the other side the pressure/load is released and by having the heim joint it allows free movement and faster response from the k member to control arm? The adjustable portion the rod would effect the fore and aft movement?

them someone else chimes in...

Yes that's what I meant.....I musta boogered it up. I meant that with the addition of the heim joint that that REMOVES up and down movement from the strut rod bushing. Right? The fore and aft would still be there. Although I am sure with yall's bushings fore and aft movement is reduced quite a bit.
 
The up and down movement I am referring to is from suspension travel. I wasn't talking about body roll, but that force would also be eliminated with your design as well.

Then James comes back again -

I think you and I are taking about the same thing. But I wouldn't say it removes the upper and downward motion. If anything it increases it. It allows control arm free-er movement up and down throughout its suspension travel with less binding. In turn increasing responsiveness in corning situations and allowing for a more planted tire.
 
The adjustable strut rods do two things

Adjusts caster (Fore and Aft)
 
Allows free-er movement up and down and the k member point

I dont like the idea of a well - planted front tire. I've got more wieght up from then most ( told you NIKKI was a double-D 

There are some flaws in the logic presented to you above. First and most important is to remember that the suspension is loaded in multiple planes. It never is exclusively up/down, fore/aft, or in/out. Because of weight, tire scrub, loading, direction, etc, there are multiple forces pushing the suspension in multiple directions at all times.  Yes, there are times when a certain situation moves the load to be more in one plane than another, but it is only the percentage change in direction, not the total load.  This is why it is designed in a triagulated manner. A good example of this is why you align a street car with toe in. The simple act of driving down the road pushes all the various components to a position where you want the dynamic motion of the car to produce a zero point in toe to minimize friction and wear. This same priciple applies to the suspension in its entireity in any dorection it is moving.

Additionally, when you look at the way a rod end is constructed, it is to allow a greater range of mis-alignment than what can be achieved with a bushing alone, while reducing the friction within that mis-alignment. As Brad pointed out, there is a sweet spot that the adjustable rods allow you to achieve that a fixed rod may or may not be able to hit. Yes, this can add a bit more caster, which is the optimizing part because you have altered the fixed location of the device, but it is by no means a band aid that allows you to radially crank up the caster as this would introduce binding. FWIW, the fox bodies Mustang guys have been using adjustable struts for decades. It is a pretty accepted practice in the automotive world.

I haven't read through this thread from the begining so I'm not sure what the original focus or question was. The underlying focus before changing any suspension items should be how do you use the car? Chrysler spent a lot of money to produce the design that we have. Is it optimal, no. It is the best reasonable compromise of performance, cost, serviceability, and lifespan. If you use your car in an average way, you can get away with the stock stuff pretty far into the driving range before you reach its limits. I also agree with Brad's conclusion that two big issues with the stock set up are bump steer and soft rates. I would also add range of adjustability as a limitation. But, that shortcoming has evolved with our point of view as our modern cars have evolved.

40 years ago, the Chrysler design was great. Then came radial tires, then revised alignment geometry, then higher rates. Remember, skinny bias ply tires where the norm when these cars were designed. The advent of radials allowed designers a broader range they could work in before unusual wear would occer, so they took advantage of it. Them alignment angles changed which allowed casual rivers to feel more confident. As driver confidence grew, speeds when up, spring rates needed to rise to keep pace. The net results are that we have modern cars with much more agressive alignment specs and much higher spring rates than a classic does in its stock form.

The good news is you can overcome a great deal of the deficit of our older design with just a few changes. An adjustable strut can be a part of this, as can offest upper control arms and bigger t-bars and s-bars. Put these all together and it is entirely possible to get a classic to feel more modern without a radical change in look or function.
« Last Edit: January 25, 2013 - 11:49:13 AM by HP2 »

Offline BIGSHCLUNK

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Re: Its lookin' like it time for an upgrade - STRUT RODS??
« Reply #62 on: January 26, 2013 - 10:58:09 AM »
The good news is you can overcome a great deal of the deficit of our older design with just a few changes. An adjustable strut can be a part of this, as can offest upper control arms and bigger t-bars and s-bars. Put these all together and it is entirely possible to get a classic to feel more modern without a radical change in look or function.

I think you've summed things up quite well.  :grinyes: The point is to round up parts now... so come spring upgrade the suspension. Looking for better handling, less push, better ride, ect. 


Now for the next phase...

Bushings..... rubber...poly...nylon??? The thought around here is stay away from polturathane... what cha' runnin' in yours?
70 Chally R/T Convertible- Yes she's really got a HEMI, no she's not a Charger!
                                             [o o o o]
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Offline BIGSHCLUNK

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Re: Its lookin' like it time for an upgrade - BUSHINGS???
« Reply #63 on: January 26, 2013 - 11:11:44 AM »
Here's a little update from b-bodies -

from P-S-T

 The only thing is the part circled in green is not a bushing its a actually aluminum spacer with a shoulder on one end. So the bushing is no longer needed because of the hiem joint. Thanks for the posts RustyRatRod I think this may have cleared up a lot of questions and spiked a good conversation.

from a b-bod member

Oh super coolness. I didn't realize the bushing was slam eliminated. That's badass. I gotta put these on my list then cause that eliminates one less thing to go bad. Thanks man.

 here's the entire thread -

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?47326-Anybody-using-adjustable-strut-rods
70 Chally R/T Convertible- Yes she's really got a HEMI, no she's not a Charger!
                                             [o o o o]
                                                  OO
                                                  OO 
                                              [o o o o]
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Offline HP2

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Re: Its lookin' like it time for an upgrade - BUSHINGS???
« Reply #64 on: January 30, 2013 - 12:54:05 PM »
With you car's "D" cup profile, you want to make sure you have a stout torsion bar up front to support her and a almost stout leaf spring out back to match and balance the handling. You might give Dick Ross up at Firm Feel a ring and see what he recommends, but I'm betting something in the 1.1x range.

Many guys swear by rubber, some by urethane. I'vce used both and typically use urethane in my cars. With a mopar, the rubber is a fairly minor part of the bushing, so its deflection capability is significantly diminished over other brands. For simplicity's sake, rubber is easier. With urethane, there are mutiple manufacturers and each goes together a bit different and requries an alternate approach to putting them together.

Maybe I'll swing of the B bodies and check out that thread. Heck, I might have to sign up since I have a B body too.

Offline brads70

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Re: Its lookin' like it time for an upgrade - BUSHINGS???
« Reply #65 on: January 30, 2013 - 01:17:06 PM »
Here is a picture of the Firm Feel bushing and greasable pin. I did choose to machine a grease groove all the way around so the grease gets in all the "splines"  These bushings were VERY easy to install.




« Last Edit: January 31, 2013 - 03:31:37 PM by brads70 »
Brad
1970 Challenger 451stroker/4L60 auto OD
Barrie,Ontario,Canada
Proud to own one of the best cars ever made!!!!!

My restoration thread 
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=59072.0
 My handling upgrade post
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=73985.0

Offline BIGSHCLUNK

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Re: Its lookin' like it time for an upgrade - BUSHINGS???
« Reply #66 on: January 31, 2013 - 01:34:24 PM »
HP2 - Yes I agree w the 1+ bar size! I already have new(er) XHD springs in the rear. Check out the thread on B's, I learned a little there and I think it possibly cleared up some misconceptions. 

Brad - I like that "groove" for lubrication idea.  :grinyes: But you always were a groovy kinda guy.  :bigsmile:    :roflsmiley:
70 Chally R/T Convertible- Yes she's really got a HEMI, no she's not a Charger!
                                             [o o o o]
                                                  OO
                                                  OO 
                                              [o o o o]
https://www.aanddtruckautoparts.com/
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Offline BIGSHCLUNK

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Re: Its lookin' like it time for an upgrade - BUSHINGS???
« Reply #67 on: February 05, 2013 - 09:12:38 PM »
So I've had 2 friends tell me that they did urethane bushings and ended up w a really harsh ride. One of the cars was a BB Chally RT... opinions?? Are nylon worth the extra cash? Or stock rubber? I'm talking on the LCA's here....  :dunno:.
70 Chally R/T Convertible- Yes she's really got a HEMI, no she's not a Charger!
                                             [o o o o]
                                                  OO
                                                  OO 
                                              [o o o o]
https://www.aanddtruckautoparts.com/
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Offline brads70

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Re: Its lookin' like it time for an upgrade - URETHANE??
« Reply #68 on: February 05, 2013 - 09:36:09 PM »
 :dunno:  I have urethane and definatly not a harsh ride?
Brad
1970 Challenger 451stroker/4L60 auto OD
Barrie,Ontario,Canada
Proud to own one of the best cars ever made!!!!!

My restoration thread 
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=59072.0
 My handling upgrade post
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=73985.0

Offline BIGSHCLUNK

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Re: Its lookin' like it time for an upgrade - URETHANE??
« Reply #69 on: February 05, 2013 - 10:03:46 PM »
I'm just throwing it out there... My buddy that had the Chally I just talked to tonite.  :dunno: 
70 Chally R/T Convertible- Yes she's really got a HEMI, no she's not a Charger!
                                             [o o o o]
                                                  OO
                                                  OO 
                                              [o o o o]
https://www.aanddtruckautoparts.com/
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Offline barracuda7199

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Re: Its lookin' like it time for an upgrade - URETHANE??
« Reply #70 on: February 05, 2013 - 10:13:23 PM »
Urethane in my car rides just fine no complaints at all. I like brads setup too!
Brandon

71 Barracuda 440 727                                                                 
(O O {]{]{]|[}[}[} O O)

Offline BIGSHCLUNK

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Re: Its lookin' like it time for an upgrade - URETHANE??
« Reply #71 on: February 05, 2013 - 10:17:24 PM »
I do belive his suspension was totally stock (altho new). Not that it should make a difference.  :dunno:
70 Chally R/T Convertible- Yes she's really got a HEMI, no she's not a Charger!
                                             [o o o o]
                                                  OO
                                                  OO 
                                              [o o o o]
https://www.aanddtruckautoparts.com/
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Offline barracuda7199

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Re: Its lookin' like it time for an upgrade - URETHANE??
« Reply #72 on: February 05, 2013 - 10:23:33 PM »
Mine is stock too just new parts with 73 and up A body disc brakes. I don't even have a sway bar never have on this car.
Brandon

71 Barracuda 440 727                                                                 
(O O {]{]{]|[}[}[} O O)

Offline Tonker1

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Re: Its lookin' like it time for an upgrade - URETHANE??
« Reply #73 on: February 06, 2013 - 06:21:06 AM »
 :popcorn: I'm still working out what direction I want to take my suspension and this tread makes for awesome reading!

Offline HP2

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Re: Its lookin' like it time for an upgrade - URETHANE??
« Reply #74 on: February 06, 2013 - 09:49:12 AM »
The problem with ride quality, or even hanlding for that matter, is that there is no yardstick by which to measure it easily. For power and speed there are m.p.h. and e.t. Those are both readily recognized standards that most everyone understands. However, how do you quantify ride harshness? How do you define hanlding. Sure it is easy to say a car pulls .8G, but what does that really translate to in feel, even if you have a means to measure G force, which most people don't.

I spend a lot of years in competition cars with bronze suspension bushings and 1000# spring rates that only weighed 3000# total. Harshness has a whole different perspective to me than someone who has spent most of their adult driving life in a Lincoln and has decided to get a muscle car they missed out on in their youth and suddenly the thing seems harsh with all OEM components. I've seen guys complain that the stock .92 t-bars in a 440 car are too harsh and other that say the 1.12 bars are perfect for their small block cars. Its a wide range of opinion.

The best I can suggest is to pick components with an end goal in mind, and buy the best shocks you are willing to pay for. Shocks control the suspension ssytem much like a cam controls an engine. Cheap out on either and a good combination parts parts can perform poorly. Match them together and an average combo can perform outstandingly.

So, to look at your question, the bushing in terms or harshness from softest to harshest will be rubber, urethane, nylon, bronze or aluminum. I mentioned it earlier that mopar bushings tend to use considerably less rubber than other Brand C or F bushings, so the deflection in them is not as great. These bushings served Chrysler well for many decades of daily driver use, so putting them in an occasional fun driver means they will be as good as original and practically last forever. Urethane will significantly reduce deflection, increase NVH transmitted through the car, plus, because of the wide variaties of them out there, may require different assembly approachs as some have shells, some do not, some are oversized, some are undersized, etc. Nylon will transmite the most noise and produce the most precise response. This could be a key factor is you engage in competitive driving where 100ths of a second matter but will be most harsh ride of the three.