Its lookin' like it time for an upgrade - Passed the road test!

[BIGSHCLUNK]

PST give a discount and free shipping on b-bodies   cool!

[BIGSHCLUNK]

Long ago there was a thread on replacement boots - for tie rod ends and the like. I replaced mine with the ones available @ NAPA when I did my steering box. They're already cracked/junk. Any ideas??

I have seen the kit from mancini.... but just need the boots for rod ends... 

Any thoughts here  (other than hotchkiss seems most expensive on everything I look at).   

http://www.p-s-t.com/s.nl/it.A/id.7548/.f?sc=12

http://www.hotchkis.net/dodge_be_body_adjustable_strut_rods.html

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/dyadstba.html

[brads70]

I used these? They don't look very "stock" though?   http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-9-13101g
As for the strut rods.... can't help you I made my own  as I wanted to keep the rubber mounting and not solid like all those designs you posted?

[BIGSHCLUNK]

What's stock looking??    They fit and dont crack apart is whats needed! 

[brads70]

What's stock looking??    They fit and dont crack apart is whats needed! 

Ya I think the same way. Red was what was available quick when I needed them. 

[BIGSHCLUNK]

WHAT?? No green available..........?         

[dodj]

Ya I would box them. Cheap enough, and nows the time while you have it all apart?

Is there any testing data anywhere that shows their value? Or do they just seem like a good idea? Not knocking them, just wondering if there is any proven (tested) value. 

[brads70]

WHAT?? No green available..........?         

   ya really huh?

[brads70]

Is there any testing data anywhere that shows their value? Or do they just seem like a good idea? Not knocking them, just wondering if there is any proven (tested) value. 

IMO there value is just extra insurance against splitting apart at the rivits when you beat on them. It has to take some flex out of them too? Cheap insurance?

[BIGSHCLUNK]

Is there any testing data anywhere that shows their value? Or do they just seem like a good idea? Not knocking them, just wondering if there is any proven (tested) value. 

Good question, cheap enuff' to do thats for sure. By design I do see how the LCA's could flex on hard cornering. I did read on another forum it was also recomended when going to a beefier sway bar. NIKKI's a double D ( She's front heavy) she cant hurt. 

[barracuda7199]

HP2 on here is really up on the handling side of things as well. i think its on cuda jas thread on his front end rebuild where he talks about making the back bushing on the strut rod a little thinner to pull the lower control arm forward to help with your alignment specs or something like that. i would think poly would be superior here since it would hold the rod more true with less flex? no?

[BIGSHCLUNK]

Here's an exerpt from b-bodies...
with my  at the bottom, BTW P-S-T  is a sponsor over there hence my comment...

watcha think?

That's what I thought and guess what? That's WRONG as all hell for a Mopar front end. The lower control arm is by design limited to be perpendicular to the center line of the lower control arm shaft. Any movement fore or aft of that point results in binding of the bushing. Adjustable strut rods are NOT a correct means of adjusting caster on a Mopar. I don't give a fig how well they're made or who makes them. Like they say....a fool and his money are soon parted. I think some of yall need to learn a bit about alignment before buying stuff.

 Maybe our sponsor P-S-T could throw in 2 cents here ....

[brads70]

Here's an exerpt from b-bodies...
with my  at the bottom, BTW P-S-T  is a sponsor over there hence my comment...

watcha think?

That's what I thought and guess what? That's WRONG as all hell for a Mopar front end. The lower control arm is by design limited to be perpendicular to the center line of the lower control arm shaft. Any movement fore or aft of that point results in binding of the bushing. Adjustable strut rods are NOT a correct means of adjusting caster on a Mopar. I don't give a fig how well they're made or who makes them. Like they say....a fool and his money are soon parted. I think some of yall need to learn a bit about alignment before buying stuff.

 Maybe our sponsor P-S-T could throw in 2 cents here ....

 When I installed the ones I made , I could with one hand raise and lower the suspension( torsion bars not installed) Couldn't do that with the stock strut rods? You can't go cranking lots into the strut rods to get caster, he is right it will bind. But you can move the lower ball joint 1/8" or so with no issues. Also when you adjust the strut rods you can feel the sweet spot were it all moves really nice. Can't do that with the stock set up, what you got is what you got. With production tolerances etc... its nice to be able to adjust stuff IMO?

[dodj]

I would agree with the guy. The strut rod is not for adjusting caster. However, an adjustable strut rod would would be able to locate the lca exactly where it is suppose to go rather than where production tolerances place it. Big deal? I don't know. I stayed with original strut rods. 

[BIGSHCLUNK]

James from P-S-T responded on b-bodies -

correct me if I am wrong but wouldn't it be up and down movement and not fore and aft as the body rolls in hard cornering one side of the suspension is forced down while the other side the pressure/load is released and by having the heim joint it allows free movement and faster response from the k member to control arm? The adjustable portion the rod would effect the fore and aft movement?

them someone else chimes in...

Yes that's what I meant.....I musta boogered it up. I meant that with the addition of the heim joint that that REMOVES up and down movement from the strut rod bushing. Right? The fore and aft would still be there. Although I am sure with yall's bushings fore and aft movement is reduced quite a bit.
 
The up and down movement I am referring to is from suspension travel. I wasn't talking about body roll, but that force would also be eliminated with your design as well.

Then James comes back again -

I think you and I are taking about the same thing. But I wouldn't say it removes the upper and downward motion. If anything it increases it. It allows control arm free-er movement up and down throughout its suspension travel with less binding. In turn increasing responsiveness in corning situations and allowing for a more planted tire.
 
The adjustable strut rods do two things

Adjusts caster (Fore and Aft)
 
Allows free-er movement up and down and the k member point

I dont like the idea of a well - planted front tire. I've got more wieght up from then most ( told you NIKKI was a double-D  )