Just caught up with this thread, can't believe I missed this one!
Anyway, some info on my car's set up, might help with your torsion bar decision. I run 1.12" torsion bars, poly LCA bushings with FF's pins, boxed LCA's, Hotchkis UCA's, and XHD rear springs. I think it rides great, and I put close to 10k miles a year on it most years. Closing in on 40k miles since I bought it, almost all of that with the 1.12" torsion bars. I also run 17" rims with 275/40/17's all the way around, so I don't have much sidewall cushion either.
And here's the kicker, my car's a 318/auto with an aluminum intake, headers, etc. So, my car will be lighter in the nose by quite a bit. Car handles well, even though I'm still running it without my sway bars and frame connectors. Body roll is actually pretty minor already, and the 275/40/17's don't give anything up on the ground.
As far as the adjustable strut rod conversation, they help. One of the big reasons is that they allow you to make up differences in the LCA bushings. The poly bushings do not have the same exact dimensions as the originals, so using the stock strut rods can be an issue- everything will not sit in the exact same place. It's a bigger problem still on A-bodies, because the re-pop strut rod bushings are not the same as the originals for the A's. Needless to say, the adjustable strut rods allow you to adjust things to where they
should be with no binding. They shouldn't be used for caster adjustments, but that doesn't mean they don't need to be adjustable.
And check Summit for prices on Hotchkis parts. They're usually WAY better than Hotchkis, and still better than Year One. Although, even if they weren't cheaper at Summit I still wouldn't give Year One my business if I could help it in any way. When I order from Summit, I usually get my parts the NEXT DAY. Before noon even. Year One, well, they get around to it eventually.
