NorCal 73 Challenger

[dodj]

Looking good. 
Where did you get the strut rods?

[7212Mopar]

Thanks. The strut rods are QA1 from Summit. Free shipping delivered in 2 days.

[7212Mopar]

I am on vacation this week down at southern California with my family. Yesterday was shopping day for the wife so I dropped her off and went to see my future engine builder with my son just about another hour drive away. We talked for about half an hour and I told him what I am looking for, also got some good feedback. I think we have a good plan but all depends on the condition of my block. I will need to make another trip in October to drop off my 340 block and my other parts that can be reused. So almost a year after I pull the engine out, I have a real solid path forward.

The build will be a 4 inch stroked 340 with hydraulic rollers valve train, should be somewhere around 475 to 500 HP. My builder is suggesting 4.25 inch stroker kit but I need to think about this. I was planning to get a TCI built 727 but my builder suggested to rebuild my 904 instead. He is using a 904 in his car and supposed can be built just as strong as a 727 but lighter and less loss in power.

[YellowThumper]

I am in SoCal myself. Do you mind stating who the builder is? I am a while out for mine but am always looking for trusted sources for my 74.

Thanks
Mike

[7212Mopar]

I am going with Brian at IMMENGINES to build my SB stroker. He is at Indio Ca. I spoke with many people and could not find a Mopar engine builder up here at Northern California.

[gleasmja]

I used him for my 340 build to. Basic rebuild and pulled good numbers on the dyno.  Couldn't ask for a better builder in my opinion.  You're in good hands.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

[Topcat]

There's a few good builders out in the farm country up here but they aren't high production shops.

[YellowThumper]

Cool, thanks.

[7212Mopar]

I used him for my 340 build to. Basic rebuild and pulled good numbers on the dyno.  Couldn't ask for a better builder in my opinion.  You're in good hands.

Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

Thanks. That is good to know. I read a lot of good things about the shop and wanted to check it out in person. Brian is also very informative and pleasant to talk to. I am looking forward to drive down there in October.

[7212Mopar]

I dropped off my engine block and transmission to my builder last week. It was a 1000 miles round trip same day and my back hurts from all the driving. Got good news last night that the sonic test of my 4.07 bore block is good and the thinnest spot is about a half dollar at .168 at the non thrust side. I don't have all the readings or how much over bore needed but he said is good to go. I will get more details and cost next week since there were several options being considered. Goal is 91 octane street driven 500 HP build.

[Rolling_Thunder]

Brian is a good dude...    im from SoCal myself so I have used a few builders around....    some good....    some not so good.

[7212Mopar]

I got the engine pricing sheet today and my builder will be going with the Scat 4" forged stroker kit, Speedmaster CNC heads with his custom porting, custom grind roller cam. I had my mind set on the Hughes roller rocker arm kit but my builder recommend the PRW stainless rockers instead. Any body has good Experience? I searched the forum and looks like several members using it on the BB build.

[dodj]

I am using the PRW's because of CP's and Strawdawgs recommendations. I have no complaints. Been on for two summers. IMO, much stronger than the often 'cooler' looking aluminium pieces.
Twalker had clearance issues with Trick Flow heads.
No problems with my 440 source Stealth heads.

[Challenger in NC]

I decided to stay with the torsion bar suspension a few weeks back and started rebuilding the front suspension after some more readings and watching YouTube videos. The K frame took most of the time and I probably removed at least a pound of grease and pebbles. I don't have a big compressor or sandblaster so mostly done with the grinder and wire wheel. The k frame was not easy to weld because the grease that got left behind started burning. Also went with the Hotchkis front sway bar. It is 1.25" hollow design and does not weight that much. A very well made piece wit ha nice finish.

Next will be to prepped the ball joints, knuckles, pitman and idler arms for more assembly. After that, going to get the new Borgeson box and do the bearing upgrade at the steering column.

Car looks great, nice job on the suspension rebuild.

This past week, I was thinking of building an engine/trans dolly similar to the piece you built. It looks like you connected two furniture dollies together which is the route I was considering. I'd like to mount the engine, K-frame and trans as one unit so that it can eventually be slid underneath the car. How did you end up supporting the K-frame on your piece? The unit from US CarTool is nice but cant justify $400 for it when I have so many other expenses with the car.

[7212Mopar]

This is what I had done so far. I bought some 3/4" threaded rods, large washers and bolts from hardware store. I then measured the K frame bolt holes and made some short slots at the 2x6 and 2x4 to mount the threaded rods. I then placed the finished K frame on the threaded rods so that it stay put. I have not place the engine on the K frame so not sure if the assembly will hold up. I will find out early next year when I get my engine back.