My 1970 Challenger R/T SE ground up restore - not too sure need some help

[jnjdragracing]

Hey guy's I need some help in making a desion to go forward with my project or to sell / scrap out. The members here were very helpfl in the past with helping me find all the vin numbers and this is a macthing number rt chalenger and it is a se also acordint to the vin, It is a 383 magnam HO with a 4 speed. I purchased complete for a restore project. It does seem everything I take off / apart reveals more and more rust.

I am pretty good good with metal fab / paint and body etc... But I think b the time I am finished if I get it completed I will will have money / time in the project than the ca is worth. Please take a lok at some pics below and give me your opion please. I plan on finishing the gutting and plan to make a rotesery and sand blast then see what I have to work with but now I am seeing pretty good with out sand blasting.

Thanks.


Below is the trunk un opened since 1988 until now, floor will have to be replaced along with rotten fuel tank and rust arong trunk is bad, even rusted fram rail on passenger side. All the floor boards will have to be replaced and also the front driver inner fender to a arm.

[jnjdragracing]

Here are some more pics. Driver inner fender looks like they had some rust (figure that) and brased it.

[jnjdragracing]

Did you the see the gas tank, not sure where this car was sitting since 1988 but damn the rust. Looks it was in a rust swamp. The fenders, 1/4 panels, trunk lid and hood will have to be replaced. I think I cn repair the roof and other areas. Maybe even the fenders we will have to see. All glass is okay so far except for the front windsheils it ws busted. The bumpers I can get re-chromed. The interior is fair, the seats will need to be replaced more then likely due to rusty frames and also the dash is pretty well shot. Not sure about the engine / trans, wil worry about that later. Here are some more pics.

[RusTy/SE]

If I had some measure of body/paint/mechanical skills, i'd go for it but i'm a little crazy like that; worse examples have been brought back from the dead. On the one hand there is no doubt that is excessive rust but on the other that means if you decide to go forward you could save time and money buy buying whole sections rather than patching. I.e a full floorpan rather than on side or the other. Same with the cowl, trunk floor, etc.

Before you go much further you need to be certain whether the car is being fixed because it's the 'one' or to eventually sell. That in itself will tell you thumb up or thumb down.

Best of luck whichever way you decide

[jimynick]

I think you've got the right idea in having it blasted, because THEN you'll really see the old girl in her skivvies and you'll have an idea just how much work there is. Been there, done that. Unless you're very skilled as an amateur, or work in the trade, in my opinion, you've probably bitten off more than you can chew and the cost of replacement panels, labour and time will exceed the cost of buying a better starting place. Now, having said that; if it's the car you lost your cherry in or were brought home from the hospital as a new-born in, you MIGHT give it a go. As mentioned, it's your car and your decision. Here endeth the sermon. Good luck. 

[edl94]

I thought mine was bad. That is some serious rust. Like the other posters said if you are going to keep it go for it. If you are going to sell it don't bother. It can be fixed but it will cost you.

[Cuda Cody]

I do not think you can restore that Challenger and not be upside down.  That's a LOT of metal that needs replaced.  Personally, I would go for it but I do it because I love the projects and restoring cars.  If you are wanting a resotred car and you want it for the least amount of money..... buy a done car.

[BIGSHCLUNK]

I do not think you can restore that Challenger and not be upside down.  That's a LOT of metal that needs replaced.  Personally, I would go for it but I do it because I love the projects and restoring cars.  If you are wanting a resotred car and you want it for the least amount of money..... buy a done car.

You will be up past your eyeballs on that car. I have a Charger in very similar condition. If you really love the car, do what you gotta do al good. But personally I dont see it.

[7071 challenger]

Personnally, I don't think I would go for it. It looks like you have to replace everything, and, like you said, the more you go on , the more rust you will find. Let's be realistic, it will cost a fortune just on sheet-metal repair. Mine was in much better condition and it cost me $5000 just to buy what I needed, (quaters, rear floor pans, trunck floor & extentions + a couple more parts, but the front of the car, (inner fenders, cowl dash, front floor, rockers and frame rails, (front & back), were all in excellant shape, and I mean, it was just to purchase the sheet-metal, at that price, it wasn't installed. I think that, on a case like yours, I would seriously consider a new complete body. It will be pricey, but on the long run, it will be cheaper than repair yours, I am shure.  Take a look at that:

http://www.dynacornbodies.com/body-shells/challenger.php

Robert

[jnjdragracing]

Thanks to all for the comments / suggestions. wel to my surpize this morning I removed the tail light assembly and no rust, I think this is the 1st. Maybe a good sign for the new year, Oh yeah Happy new Year everybody. I think I will buld the rotesery and sand blast and see the results. I have help a lot of friends with projects mainly welding / paint and body and since I am out of drag racing now I do need a new project. We will see what it shows. I am pretty good with metal repair and I have more time than moeny so we will see what I can fix before replacing.

The Challenger no found memories in this one. I fell in love with the 1970 Dodge Challenger RT when my dad took me and my little brother to see Vanishing Point and I have been a fan every since, I think this was the first move I every saw Nudity in also. I am a die hard Chevy guy but there are too many camaro's out there and not enough Dodge's will see. It is time I do something for me instead of others. Wish I was getting pai for this one thou......

Below are some pic's of the Datsun Z my brother and I have worked on and progressed with. We started with a nitorus engine and then I moved up to a bloen gas 6-71 supercharger and we had a blast, then I switched to blown alky and it was too much for the car, take of wise. So we decieded to go twin turbo running on e85 and it has been a blast, learning the computer and all. More tuning as always.....  Also below are some pic's of the Blown alky S10 I built but have sold, getting out of drag racing except to help my brother.

Thanks again guys....

John

[Topcat]

What does your Vin & Tag numbers show?

Good luck on the build.

[ragtopdodge]

If you don't have a fender tag or buildsheet to prove it's a four-speed car, then I'd just scrap it.

All done, you'd be lucky to get $40k for it.


All done, you'd be lucky to get $55k (which is u-code, if not v-code money) for it.  And I see $70k and a ton of your own time in that hulk.  Sorry to say.

[jnjdragracing]

fender tag was pretty well rusted but we were able to get the numbers from the back side of the plate.

fender plate is:

v9x yo5 26 en2
j45 m21 n41 n42 n85 r35
v1x a62 c16 c55 g33 h51
fe5 h6x9 000 a22 052069
e63 d21 js23 n0b 124755

the engine block, firewall, and rad support all match the vin.


So what do you think?


John

[Cuda Cody]

Very cool codes.  Not a SE, but a real 4 speed RT with AC and rallye dash.  If it was an SE it would have a VIN of JS2923N0BXXXXXX

Even if this was a V code you could not make it pencil out.  To much metal work to be done.

Do you mind giving us an idea of what you had to pay for it?

[jnjdragracing]

He wanted $1500.00 but he settled for $1300.00. I will still plan on sand blasting and then make a decsion. I guess if it is too far gone I can sell parts off of it to recoupe some of my funds.

Thanks for the info.

John