Should I dimple my aluminum valve covers or headers?

[brads70]

Yes I need those covers for the big Hughes roller rockers.  Brad, you have some nice v/c.

 Are you "sure" a valve cover like the one I pictures wouldn't give you the clearances you need? Like how close is the rocker arm to the valve cover?

[Raw Untamed]

Brad, the v/c that you show in the pics MIGHT work, but it would be close.

I have less than a quarter inch from the rocker to the inside of the v/c.  For this tube to clear, I need something to move atleast 1/4 to 3/8 inch, so I think my best bet is to move the header.  I don't want to take a chance at ruining the v/c.  A small dimple in the header tube won't matter, as that's what TTI does themselves.

Let me see if I can't post up a pic tonight.

Thanks for the help.

[brads70]

Brad, the v/c that you show in the pics MIGHT work, but it would be close.

I have less than a quarter inch from the rocker to the inside of the v/c.  For this tube to clear, I need something to move atleast 1/4 to 3/8 inch, so I think my best bet is to move the header.  I don't want to take a chance at ruining the v/c.  A small dimple in the header tube won't matter, as that's what TTI does themselves.

Let me see if I can't post up a pic tonight.

Thanks for the help.

 Wow so it sounds like the header would be very close to the rocker arm if the valve cover was removed? ( If I understand you right?)
I had similiar issues with headers on my BB Buick in  a 86 regal. I used a propane plumping  torch to heat up a tube and  with a few multiple heating and cooling cycles managed to move a tube 1/4" without dimpling it. Headed was bolted solid to the head while heating and cooling. I heated the tube up in the direction I wanted the tube to move. Maybe this might work for you?  I've also straightened rear end housings the same way.

[Raw Untamed]

Here are a few pics of the touching areas.  The first is right there at the v/c like I said before, but there is also a tube hitting the block/bellhousing down low.  I already dimpled the one down low using a small socket and hammering it.  Thanks Sledgehammer.
Tomorrow I'll dimple the top of the #2 tube.

After I get the clearance I need, I'll have to paint the dimpled areas with high heat silver paint so they don't rust.

I guess I could use different valve covers that fit better, but I really like these and I paid well over $100 for them.  Plus after all is said and done, I doubt anybody will see the small dimple as it's hidden under the v/c.

The driver side is a perfect fit.  Then again, I don't have a starter yet.

[StRoKeR]

Better pics for sure now! yea i use the socket trick on the tubes in tight places also... anyways on the main tube that is giving you issues you could have done what I did maybe and still looks uniform! have someone put the tube right in that area (mark the interference area before removing header) in a press of some sort or vice (with flat surface on each side of tube to not put teeth marks in tubes) to "oval" the tube some! i'm sure you will figure something out all together 


On my A body it was tight on pass side and it looks good IMO look at the main tube on pass side of my car, it is "ovaled" some to clear the body and makes install nice and unless I said something to you you probably would not notice it!  and when ya get all the clearancing done have them powerdcoated when ya get the coin 

[brads70]

I'd try heating that tube thats on the V/C I bet you could get it to move.It's long and "unsuported " so it should bend easy.  You just need 1/8" or so! A propane torch won't screw up the finish either. Worth a try, nothing to loose?
 The area down at the block .... ya dimple it as Jason said.

[moparmaniac59]

Have you thought about trying to shim your motor mount? I don't know how much room is on the passenger side (as far as shifting the engine just a bit in that direction) as you said it was a perfect fit. A few degrees on the pad could make a big difference in the valve cover clearance. Just a thought! 



                                                                           Matt B.

[72cudamaan]

Have you thought about trying to shim your motor mount? I don't know how much room is on the passenger side (as far as shifting the engine just a bit in that direction) as you said it was a perfect fit. A few degrees on the pad could make a big difference in the valve cover clearance. Just a thought! 



                                                                           Matt B.

No it won't. The header is bolted to the head. Moving the motor mount will only move the head/header/block combination.

[67vertman]

How about taking the v/c to a machine shop and have them tig weld in a convex piece of aluminum?  That way you do not have t distort the header and the v/c wont leak from binding it.

[72cudamaan]

Might be a good idea to call TTI and see what they say. Seems like you may burn out the
V/C gasket as close as that pipe will be anyway.

[Raw Untamed]

Brad, where exactly should I heat it?  What should I apply the pressure with without scratching off the thermal coating?

[brads70]

Brad, where exactly should I heat it?  What should I apply the pressure with without scratching off the thermal coating?

I'd try here ( yellow dots)  4-5 times ( heat/cool) with  just heat and see what happens?