440 or stroker 400?

[dfark]

On my 72 Chally I have the option of building a 440 or a 400 stroker motor.   I'm trying to decide which way to go.    Which engine build is going to give the most bang for my dollars spent?   I fear the stroker crank is going to be pricy.    Also,  what about Eldebrock aluminum heads or stay with iron?    My goal is to run on pump gas and have enough vacuum for power brakes, and be streetable.    I'm gonna say around 10-1 compression.     Were gonna go with a 4 spd. tranny,   and thinking 3.55 gearing.      I am open for all suggestions and criticism.  Thanks have a good day.   

[brads70]

I too had both blocks to chose from and I went with a 451" for a few reasons. One I really like how quick the 451" combo revs. It's literally like a chain saw.  Also I was fighting for space( height) for my air cleaner. "B"combo's sit lower than "RB" COMBO'S, and slighly lower weight. Also I came across a good deal on a pair of Mopar stage 6 heads which I read are "happiest" on smaller CID combo's.
I had narrowed it down to either a 451" or a 512" RB.
Cost is about the same on most combo's . I got my kit from Muscle Motors.  Look at 440 sources web site too.
With the price for all new lightweight, stronger parts , why bother with stock stuff? By the time you remachine your crank and rods , buy pistons, bearings, rings, balance it all.... your pretty close to an all new lighter weight, stronger, stroker kit .

If your looking for every last HP then maybe a 451" is not the best choice? I figured a 451" would get me into just as much trouble as a 512 would!    I can still fry the tires at will with the 451 so why build more motor than the car/chassis/tires will allow I figure?  500 HP from any BB combo is easy enough. How much can you actually use on a street car? Also remember a stout engine WILL find the weak points in the rest of your drivetrain....
If your willing to get rid of the power brakes with either a manual set up of hydroboost it opens up a lot more cam options for you!
Here is a link to my junk?... http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=78386.0

http://www.440source.com/strokerkits.htm
http://www.musclemotorsracing.com/stroker-category.html

[cudabob496]

pump gas, can only go 9.5 CR with iron heads,
but 10.5 CR with alum heads.

but you're real power is in how well the heads flow, and you can't beat some
of the deals out there for big block alum heads. ie 440source

[HP_Cuda]

No offense brad but there is no replacement for displacement!

 

[TinCuda]

I built my 440 block with the 512 stroker kit from 440 Source.  My crank was toast and I had a couple of bent connecting rods.  The stroker was a no brainer.  I used 906 iron heads but that was only to save money (I already had them).  I wasn't interested in building a race car.  You should go with aluminum heads if you are wanting 10:1 or better compression.  If you do decide to go with the 512, let me know.  I can help you out with a few things like cam choice, oil pans, and what not.

Good luck to you!


.,

[Chryco Psycho]

with good quench you can actually get over 10:1 with Iron & 11:1 with alum on pump gas

[HP_Cuda]

with good quench you can actually get over 10:1 with Iron & 11:1 with alum on pump gas

The only problem is that you don't know what will happen next at the pump, I've only seen the octane offerings go down over time sadly...

[brads70]

No offense brad but there is no replacement for displacement!

 

Oh I agree, just for a street car it's easy to build to much motor was all I was trying to say. Drag racing is a different deal.   

[polarbear123]

pump gas, can only go 9.5 CR with iron heads,
but 10.5 CR with alum heads.

I have a 440 with iron heads at 10-1, pump gas.

[dfark]

Brad I agree,   I really don't need 600 horse on the street.   I will probably stay on the conservative side to account for lower octane ratings at the pump. 
Really enjoyed browsing the 440 source website.       I will probably have the blocks checked for cracks and use the best block available to me. 
Doug

[73restomod]

The B block is lighter (20-30lbs), and the main bearing webs are stronger in the Post 69s.

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[moper]

Given the choice I'd go B wedge. It's lighter, shorter, has most of the same kits available, and has more clearance with Headers and things to change plugs. Me personally - I don't build them for steet use with more than a 3.915 stroke - so it's a 470. I'm a fan of taller pistons and the short deck means the piston has the oil ring span the piston pin on longer strokes than that. That being said - a 470 or 451 will be more than enough power, and I wouldn't waste money or time on iron heads unless you're stuck by class rules or nostalgia. If you want iron - I'd only run closed chamber 915 or 516s because I can build for quench easilly.

[dfark]

Showing my ignorance here,  but don't know what quench is.     I understand the difference between open and closed chamber heads as far as the physical appearance but that's about it.
If you achieve the same compression ratio then what difference does it make?

[HP_Cuda]

Quench, or squish area is typically the flat area on the top of the piston that's almost level with the top of the block deck. It must have a corresponding flat area on the deck surface of the head to qualify as quench.

[cudabob496]

pump gas, can only go 9.5 CR with iron heads,
but 10.5 CR with alum heads.

I have a 440 with iron heads at 10-1, pump gas.

Well, those numbers are a general guideline, for people to avoid problems. Hard to say, on a tear down,
whether or not you would see any evidence of detonation. Detonation is actually a pretty complex phenomenon,
with lots of variables. What octane level do you run in your car?