Front suspension "detailing"

[mrbill426]

Getting ready to detail the front suspension and steering and I am looking for the latest tips on "paints" to use.

I am pretty sure the K-member is a semigloss black and maybe the steering box too?  But, I am wondering if there is an effective clear coat I can apply to clean bare metal parts like tie rods, struts, spindles, front/rear sway bars, control arms, calipers, etc.  I tried one hardware store product but I have flash rust forming so it gets blasted back off.  I just don't like the looks of the "cast" paints I have seen, and a lot of those items are not cast anyway.  Is there a coating that really looks like steel?  Were the torsion bars also painted?  I at least have cosmoline to dip the lower arms in for a bit of originality.

Any tips are appreciated!

 

[BIGSHCLUNK]

Steering gear is "natural" as I recall. Wished I'd clearcoated mine... its already lookin' rusty....

[spamtank]

I bought some of this stuff.

http://ecsautomotive.com/rpm.php

Haven't used it yet.  But I need too soon.

I'd like to use it on my brake calipers, but I worry about creep, if it's a petroleum based product.

[4 speed fish]

I used a hammered  grey color on the steering box,tie rods,calipers,strut rods.I used semi gloss black on the k frame, steering link, tie rods sleeves.swaybar.I painted every piece of bare metal.I did not want to see any rust.Painted the backing plates silver.I used the same 3 paints on  the metal pieces just so it would looked uniformed.Unless you are doing an oem rest I would not worry about what is correct.You will know when you put the paint on something if it is the look you are looking for.Imo the hammered gray looks great.

[mrbill426]

I had wondered about that stuff, looks like a rub on product.

I bought some of this stuff.

http://ecsautomotive.com/rpm.php

Haven't used it yet.  But I need too soon.

I'd like to use it on my brake calipers, but I worry about creep, if it's a petroleum based product.

[spamtank]

It reminds me of old soldering flux.  You are supposed to warm the parts up and brush it on with an acid brush.  It will soften and spread more easily then.

Hope to try it out in a few weeks, once I get some other projects out of the way.

[burdar]

Manual steering boxes were left natural...PS boxes were painted black.  The paint was cheap and didn't last long.  That's why a lot of people think their PS boxes were natural.

K-member is black.  It was probably gloss when new but the paint was so cheap it didn't have a lot of shine.  I had my K powder coated in a semi-gloss black.  I can't remember now if it was 60% or 80% gloss.  It looks good and will hold up much better then paint.

Torsion bars are gloss black.  I've heard of people powder coating them but I was afraid of the coating flaking off.  I just set the bars accross two saw horses and sprayed them heavily with gloss black Rustoleum.  I set them in the garage for a few weeks to dry before installing them.  My HD bars had silver paint markings on them.

I used RPM on the tie rods, adjusters, center link, spindles, pitman/idler arms, calipers, strut rods and leaf springs.  So far everything is holding up great.  I had planned to darken the front sway bar and leave it natural but the powder coater sprayed it black by mistake.

Disc brake dust shields were painted black from 70-72.  They were galvinized in 73-74.

[mrbill426]

RPM??? 

Thanks for the info and the photos, looks great.     I had thought the PWR steering boxes were black, and manuals natural, as you said.
My ('72) backing plates were galvanized but I had to blast them to clean them up.  I applied "hammered" paint on them to try to duplicate galvanize but not sure I like it so much; may opt for black.

 

...

I used RPM on the tie rods, adjusters, center link, spindles, pitman/idler arms, calipers, strut rods and leaf springs.  So far everything is holding up great.  I had planned to darken the front sway bar and leave it natural but the powder coater sprayed it black by mistake.

Disc brake dust shields were painted black from 70-72.  They were galvinized in 73-74.

[Topcat]

If you decide to paint parts to make a cast iron appearance; there's a product from POR-15 called "Metal Mask." It's an epoxy type paint that dries rock hard. I don't recommend it sprayed from a gun unless you do a total tear down during clean up after.

Use a Preval as an option. Just reduce the Metal Mask paint some.

http://www.por15.com/METAL-MASK/productinfo/MMH/

http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/preval.aspx?gclid=CPrxktn0ibUCFSXZQgodm3EA-A

The RPM works pretty good but if the part was rusty before, it might have rust creep back later on.

[burdar]

RPM is the coating you can buy in the link posted earlier.  Just heat the part and rub on the RPM.  It melts and flows onto the part.

I media blasted a lot of parts before finding better ways at cleaning them up.  If you would have soaked the dust shields in EvapoRust, they would have come out looking great.  I blasted mine years ago and painted them.  I ended up removing all the paint and rubbed them with steel wool.  THen I RPM'd them.  They look great...not 100% correct but better then being painted black.

I also used Muriatic acid on a lot of the fasteners.  I started out blasting them but it took for ever.  The acid is mild and removes all the rust and any zinc that may still be on them.  THen all you have to do is send them out to get zinc plated again.  You can use the acid on a lot of different parts.  Just make sure to neutralise the acid with backing soda and water once the parts are clean.  It ends up being a lot easier then blasting and it doesn't change the look of the part like blasting does.  Use the acid outside...not inside.  Also, use the EvapoRust on any delicate parts you aren't comfortable using the acid on.  EvapoRust is around $30 a gallon and it loses strength fast.  THe acid is $8 a gallon and you can dilute it a lot.  It does not lose strength fast at all. If I ever do another car, I wouldn't blast much at all.

Original idler arm soaked in EvapoRust and lightly rubbed with 0000steel wool...then RPM'd so it won't rust.


Center link, strut rods and tie rod adjusters(tie rods new) soaked in Muriatic acid.  Then soaked in baking soda water.  Finally, RPM'd to protect from future rust.

[mrbill426]

Ohhh, duhhh, on the RPM

So those items were merely acid dipped and RPM coated?  Looks good 
Nice to see I am not the only one thinking of reusing the lightly pitted original strut rods. 

 

RPM is the coating you can buy in the link posted earlier.  Just heat the part and rub on the RPM.  It melts and flows onto the part.

I media blasted a lot of parts before finding better ways at cleaning them up.  If you would have soaked the dust shields in EvapoRust, they would have come out looking great.  I blasted mine years ago and painted them.  I ended up removing all the paint and rubbed them with steel wool.  THen I RPM'd them.  They look great...not 100% correct but better then being painted black.

I also used Muriatic acid on a lot of the fasteners.  I started out blasting them but it took for ever.  The acid is mild and removes all the rust and any zinc that may still be on them.  THen all you have to do is send them out to get zinc plated again.  You can use the acid on a lot of different parts.  Just make sure to neutralise the acid with backing soda and water once the parts are clean.  It ends up being a lot easier then blasting and it doesn't change the look of the part like blasting does.  Use the acid outside...not inside.  Also, use the EvapoRust on any delicate parts you aren't comfortable using the acid on.  EvapoRust is around $30 a gallon and it loses strength fast.  THe acid is $8 a gallon and you can dilute it a lot.  It does not lose strength fast at all. If I ever do another car, I wouldn't blast much at all.

Original idler arm soaked in EvapoRust and lightly rubbed with 0000steel wool...then RPM'd so it won't rust.


Center link, strut rods and tie rod adjusters(tie rods new) soaked in Muriatic acid.  Then soaked in baking soda water.  Finally, RPM'd to protect from future rust.

[mrbill426]

Thanks Topcat! 

If you decide to paint parts to make a cast iron appearance; there's a product from POR-15 called "Metal Mask." It's an epoxy type paint that dries rock hard. I don't recommend it sprayed from a gun unless you do a total tear down during clean up after.

Use a Preval as an option. Just reduce the Metal Mask paint some.

http://www.por15.com/METAL-MASK/productinfo/MMH/

http://www.tcpglobal.com/autobodydepot/preval.aspx?gclid=CPrxktn0ibUCFSXZQgodm3EA-A

The RPM works pretty good but if the part was rusty before, it might have rust creep back later on.

[burdar]

I bought a 3' section of PVC pipe and an end cap.  I put the strut rods and center link in the PVC and filled it with a 50% solution of acid.  After an hour or so, I pulled them out and wire brushed them.  When you pull them out, it doesn't look like anything has happened...however, the rust just brushes right off.  It took a couple dips to get them clean. 

Once the rust was gone I poured out the acid into another container and filled the PVC with backing soda and water.  Once the fizzing stops the acid is neutralized. The bars had been exposed to years of salty Iowa winters so they were heavily rusted.  There is some pitting but I just left it. 

If you want to try the acid, just experiment with some rusty fasteners.  If you don't like it, you are only out $8.  Make sure to use it outside. 

[mrbill426]

Thanks burdar, I might give it a try.  I've worked with that acid before for cleaning glass insulators; yes absolutely outside.   Wonder, does it affect rubber??

I bought a 3' section of PVC pipe and an end cap.  I put the strut rods and center link in the PVC and filled it with a 50% solution of acid.  After an hour or so, I pulled them out and wire brushed them.  When you pull them out, it doesn't look like anything has happened...however, the rust just brushes right off.  It took a couple dips to get them clean. 

Once the rust was gone I poured out the acid into another container and filled the PVC with backing soda and water.  Once the fizzing stops the acid is neutralized. The bars had been exposed to years of salty Iowa winters so they were heavily rusted.  There is some pitting but I just left it. 

If you want to try the acid, just experiment with some rusty fasteners.  If you don't like it, you are only out $8.  Make sure to use it outside.