Shaker Carb Air and Vent Pulls (correct under-dash location?)

[filmsurgeon]

Hey Guys,

I am in the process of making needed changes (for the better) to my '70 Challenger convertible.  The interior has been gutted (except for the dash).  I am wondering if anyone can provide information and/or pictures of the correct location for the Shaker "Carb Air" and "Vent" pulls that mount to the underside of the dash.  I know that there are two Carb Air cable lengths available (short=33.5"; long=44") .  I believe the prior owner installed the short version because there is not enough cable to move it further left.  The left Vent cable has enough to move toward the right (where the "Carb Air" pull is currently located).  I've search this forum and the internet and found some helpful info, but not enough to make it clear.  Some older posts here don't display images any longer.  I have read that the Carb Air pull mounts to the dash underside just above the accelerator pedal.  Is that correct?  Thanks for the help.

[4 speed fish]

The left goes where your shaker cable is.You need 2 shaker cables for the shaker setup.1 to the adapter plate and 1 to the shaker doors.The shaker cable mounts under the radio on the dash frame.There will be holes in the dash frame for it.

[filmsurgeon]

The left goes where your shaker cable is.You need 2 shaker cables for the shaker setup.1 to the adapter plate and 1 to the shaker doors.The shaker cable mounts under the radio on the dash frame.There will be holes in the dash frame for it.

Thanks.  That's what I thought.  I now know I have the only available and correct length Shaker cables (the longer "under-dash" Carb Air, and the shorter "under-hood" cable that is exclusively attached to the shaker assembly).  Can anyone post pictures of which under-dash holes should be used for the Vent and Carb Air pulls?  I can only assume that the (3) pulls currently mounted are using the proper mounting holes (just that their orientation is wrong).  Just went out to the car, and I now believe I discovered the reason why my Carb Air can't move any further left of where it currently is mounted.  See the photos.  The grommet location is way too low on the firewall.  I swear, the more I take this interior apart, the more I discover what a horrible "hack job" the previous owner did on this car.  It would appear that I need to remove the dash to relocate the cable through the proper location on the firewall (and I'm pretty sure there's no hole where it's supposed to go, 'cause this was not an original "Shaker" car.  Any more advice would be appreciated.  How difficult/big-of-a-job is it to remove the dash?

Sorry.  I don't know why the photos didn't orient properly.  You'll have to tilt your head left to view normal.

[filmsurgeon]

No need for anyone to post a photo of the correct mounting holes to use.  I just got this from a member on the moparts.org site.  A photo of the correct firewall location for the grommet would be most helpful though.  I did see a older post that had a photo of an engine-side firewall from what I believe was a '71 'Cuda.  Would '70 Challenger be the same?

[anlauto]

The shaker cable comes out right below the seam of the upper cowl...

[filmsurgeon]

The shaker cable comes out right below the seam of the upper cowl...

Thanks.  I found some other/similar helpful photos.  My question/concern is: How do I get that hole drilled?  I can't imagine not having to remove the dash.  Can't get it from the engine bay since the engine is in the way.  Any recommendations?  How big/difficult a job is it to remove the dash?  I've already taken out the Rallye Cluster (which included lowering the sterring column, removing the light bar, ash tray, LH & RH lower trim).  I have also removed the A-pillar interior trim and glove box for other reasons.  I have found this on dash removal:

http://v8tvshow.com/content/view/717/1/

[72ls5fla]

from my car ....

[4 speed fish]

Use a 1 inch hole saw.Drill a pilot hole first.I think it will miss the heater box.Drill slow and have someone look underneath to see if you will clear it.

[filmsurgeon]

Use a 1 inch hole saw.Drill a pilot hole first.I think it will miss the heater box.Drill slow and have someone look underneath to see if you will clear it.

Unfortunately, I cannot drill the hole from the engine bay side (the engine is in the way).  Therefore, I will have to try and do something from the interior side.  Hopefully I can get the hole drilled without having to remove to much more of the dash, or what's underneath it.

[4 speed fish]

A 90 degree drill might work.

[filmsurgeon]

A 90 degree drill might work.

Good point!  I hadn't thought of that.  Probably because I don't have one.  I'll have to see if I can rent one at HD big box store, or borrow one from a friend.

[anlauto]

Use a Greenlee style punch.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/GREENLEE-1-3-16-CHASSIS-PUNCH-DIE-ROUND-HOLE-COMPLETE-NICE-knockout-/330874754333?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d09ac151d ....that is if you can get a pilot hole in there...

[filmsurgeon]

Use a Greenlee style punch.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/GREENLEE-1-3-16-CHASSIS-PUNCH-DIE-ROUND-HOLE-COMPLETE-NICE-knockout-/330874754333?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4d09ac151d ....that is if you can get a pilot hole in there...

That's an interesting idea.  I remember seeing these before.  I think the chasis punches are rated to punch through up to 10 gauge steel.  Wouldn't the firewall be thicker than that?

[skdmark]

When I installed my shaker cable I used the greenlee punch. My car is a 383 and it was in place when I punched the hole in the firewall. No need to remove the dash either. The hole comes out very clean too. Much better than a hole saw.

-Mark

[filmsurgeon]

When I installed my shaker cable I used the greenlee punch. My car is a 383 and it was in place when I punched the hole in the firewall. No need to remove the dash either. The hole comes out very clean too. Much better than a hole saw.

-Mark

Thanks Mark.  Originally, I thought I wouldn't be able to get to it from the engine bay side with the engine in place (BTW - I have a 412cid small block).  Yesterday, I removed the MSD box from the firewall and saw the correct spot where the cable should come through.  It looks like I can easily get to it with a drill (FYI - I plan on using a "step bit").  I assume I'll have to get through the firewall insulation pad as well.  Regarding dash removal: I've had a new pad for several years that I always intended to use because the original owner cut so many holes in the firewall and the pad that they both look like swiss cheese.  He did this because of all the crap he put on the car (worst of which included an Accel DFI system, that had two huge cable looms going through the firewall).  Shortly after my getting the car, I had it replaced with an Edelbrock manifold and a Holley 750 carb.  The DFI was too finicky and complex.  Anyway, I think I'll still consider removing the dash in order to put in the new firewall pad and clean up some other garbage.  Regards,  Joe