E-brake and US Cartool Frame Connectors

[larry4406]

I have installed US Car Tool frame connectors on a 71 barracuda vert.  I installed connectors closer to the torsion bar socket so as to not obscure the fuel line holes.  Now the cable connector that connects the front to rear cable will interfere with the drivers frame connector when the brake is applied.  Any thoughts on solution?  Change from the 71 to 72-74 style cable connector as shown here http://www.billrolikenterprises.com/products.asp?cat=13&pg=2 ?  Somehow move the front cable anchor point closer to the frame connector to increase clearance?  Cut a window into the connector to provide clearance?

How are folks dealing with the adjuster side?  Topcat seems to have kept the original adjuster and let it pass thru the connector to the original anchor point while Bill Alphin changed to a n 8" long GM 5/16" battery j-bolt and anchored it to the passengers side frame connector.

Updated to include pictures.

I am thinking of putting a square tube into the connector as a window/pocket.

[larry4406]

No resonse from anyone yet many have installed the connectors.  Here is a picture of what Bill Alphin did.  he cut a window in the connector and used a bronze bushing where the cable runs thru the connector side wall.

[barracuda7199]

i would think cutting a small hole through the connector would be fine i would just weld a sleeve where you drilled the hole.

['Cuda Hunter]

   sleeve

[jimynick]

If you take the time to mock it up and figure out the right angle, a drill, bit and chunk of 3/8" steel fuel line and a MIG would probably get you where you want to go. 

[larry4406]

If you take the time to mock it up and figure out the right angle, a drill, bit and chunk of 3/8" steel fuel line and a MIG would probably get you where you want to go. 

You have missed the point completely, but I thank you for your offer of assistance.  The angle and holes are already drilled thru the connector as shown in the pictures.  That is not the issue.  The issue is that when the brake is engaged, the front cable is pulled, and then the cable connector will hit the frame connector preventing further engagement of the brake.  So, one either lengthens the front cable to provide clearance (custom cable or relocated cable sheathing anchor point) or puts a window into the frame connector to eliminate the interference.  I do plan on using a bushing or guide tube thru the frame connector for the cable to prevent cable damage.

I am really surprised that with all of the frame connectors apparently installed, more information is not readily available.

['Cuda Hunter]

I see. So that's why the large rectangle cut out on the sub frame connector. 
That allows the cable connector to go inside the sub frame connector for full force on the e brake.

 

[Mopar_Mudder]

Don't know if it helps but here is a picture of mine while I was still moking it up. I can get more picture now that it is all painted and done it you want.

[larry4406]

Mopar Mudder  - thank you for your pictures.  Yes, please include additional pictures if available.

I see you have the triangular 72-74 cable connector.  You also appear to have much more cable distance between the frame connector and the cable connector than I do.  How close are your connectors to the torsion bar socket?  I butted mine to the socket so as not to obscure the fuel line holes in the frame member.  If I had positioned the connector more towards the rocker (covering the fuel line hole) then I would have had more cable distance between the frame connector and the cable connector possibly eliminating the interference.  So a trade off - create and e-brake problem or a fuel line problem.


Did you have to cut a window to enable the cable connector to slide into the frame connector?

On the adjustment side, I see you have the adjuster rod bent into a "z" shape.   Any reason why?

[Mopar_Mudder]

Mopar Mudder  - thank you for your pictures.  Yes, please include additional pictures if available.

I see you have the triangular 72-74 cable connector.  You also appear to have much more cable distance between the frame connector and the cable connector than I do.  How close are your connectors to the torsion bar socket?  I butted mine to the socket so as not to obscure the fuel line holes in the frame member.  If I had positioned the connector more towards the rocker (covering the fuel line hole) then I would have had more cable distance between the frame connector and the cable connector possibly eliminating the interference.  So a trade off - create and e-brake problem or a fuel line problem.


Did you have to cut a window to enable the cable connector to slide into the frame connector?

On the adjustment side, I see you have the adjuster rod bent into a "z" shape.   Any reason why?

I can't say for sure what style I have sorry. I bought a complete new E-Brake kit from Right Stuff and had nothing to start with to compare it to

You can see in the pictures how close the frame connectors are to the torsion bars, that little bit of difference isn't your problem I don't think. I had to cut some out of the frrame connector to make room for the fuel lines, was not a big issue though. It looks like your cable going from the pedal to the connector is shorter then mine. The pedal is not pressed all the way down to the floor by chance is it? My connector doesn't come close to the frame connector when the pedal is pushed. So the window is just for the cable to run through.

The Z in the rod is a fix for a miss calculation in the hole for it to run through, it is really had to know where exactly that rod is going to want to be when the cable is tightened up. So I either had to put a bend in the rod or weld the windows back up and start over, which I had to do on the other side already.

Really you should completely hook up the e-brake system before installing the sub frames. Then mark on the floor exactly where the cables run and also measure how far off the floor they are so you get it right the first time.

[larry4406]

Mopar Mudder - thanks for the additional pictures.  My frame connectors are closer to the torsion bar socket so as to not affect the hole in the cross member for the fuel lines; this reduces the cable distance between the frame connector and the cable connector.  Your frame connectors are further away from the torsion bar sockets so you gain some clearance but you then had fuel line issues.

Your front cable appears longer than mine.  Mine is the original cable.

I am heading  down the path of putting a pocket/window in the connector so as to provide clearance for the cable connector.  I am making sure that sufficient clearance is provided for full e-brake pedal travel.  I also plan on sourcing a shorter adjuster.  The shorter adjuster that Bill used was a GM battery hold down.  I think it is a Dorman 00583 based on the flat hook end and the thread length.  Here is a link http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-1040-00583.aspx 

I did a full mock up of the cables before the connector installations and took good measurements for cable angles, distance off floor, etc.

Will post some pictures when I am done.

[larry4406]

Ok - my modifications to accomodate the e-brake is done.  I used 2x2x3/16 tube steel as windows/tubes thru the connectors to allow the cables to pass.  On the drivers side, I used a trimmed 1/4" red bronze pipe nipple to act as a cable guide and a hard cap which was ground into a weldolet.  The cable end fits perfect thru the nipple inside diameter.  I could have eliminated the hard cap if I had a NPT pipe tap.  The drivers side tube does not go all the way thru but was plug welded from the back side.  The drivers side was carefully aligned so that the cable is centered in the nipple and does not ride on an edge.  I will put a length of rubber fuel line on the adjuster rod to prevent any rattles.  The pictures show the story.

[Topcat]

I can't say for sure what style I have sorry. I bought a complete new E-Brake kit from Right Stuff and had nothing to start with to compare it to

You can see in the pictures how close the frame connectors are to the torsion bars, that little bit of difference

 The pedal is not pressed all the way down to the floor by chance is it? My connector doesn't come close to the frame connector when the pedal is pushed. So the window is just for the cable to run through.

Can you show a picture with the parking brake fully depressed so I can see how close the cable guides get to the frame?

[larry4406]

Top Cat - my first picture from Reply#11 shows the cable end, with the brake fully engaged, is in the connector. Mudder I think has more room due to different cables. Mine are the original cables.

[Mopar_Mudder]

Lookin good