Author Topic: Electrical Question  (Read 776 times)

Offline cudabob496

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Electrical Question
« on: February 25, 2013 - 11:27:04 PM »
Dang it, my car will turn over but wont fire, since I put in this MSD adjustable timing unit. How do you tell if there is voltage
on a wire, which is not under load, without stripping off a small amount of coating to expose the copper, and take a
multimeter reading?
thanks
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000




Offline HP_Cuda

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Re: Electrical Question
« Reply #1 on: February 26, 2013 - 01:55:22 AM »
Contact the connection on that wire with your multimeter plug.

There has to be open metal somewhere, even the bulkhead connections you can figure out a way to find that.
1970 Cuda Clone 440 4 speed - sublime green
1970 Cuda 383 4 speed - yellow - SOLD

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Electrical Question
« Reply #2 on: February 26, 2013 - 06:19:03 AM »
Most MSD systems need to have the brown & blue wires at the ballast tied together so it will power the MSD while cranking , there should be a pigtail inclded to connect both wires together

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t

Offline cudabob496

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Re: Electrical Question
« Reply #3 on: February 26, 2013 - 07:27:58 AM »
Most MSD systems need to have the brown & blue wires at the ballast tied together so it will power the MSD while cranking , there should be a pigtail inclded to connect both wires together

Ya, I've seen a diagram with that set up, but I don't think its for the 6 series boxes.

I did find at Walmart a little lite, with one lead that is a ground, and the light has a sharp pointer to penetrate
the wire casing, and lights up if there is voltage. Makes a needle like hole in the wire casing, which seems to close
up on its own, but I'll tape it anyway! Who needs a fire!!

Thanks
« Last Edit: February 26, 2013 - 09:34:42 PM by cudabob496 »
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline cudabob496

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Re: Electrical Question
« Reply #4 on: February 27, 2013 - 08:33:51 PM »
Got the Adjustable Timing Control to work! Really cool! When car is warmed up, can adjust timing initially by
seeing how idle rpm is affected. Using say 1000 rpm idle, you then adjust the timing knob, and your distributor
position, accordingly. Goal is to get the timing control knob at about the center, on a dial that goes from 1 to 15,
and at the same time have your engine timing where you want it. Then as you drive, you can fine tune it to maximize
power, as long as you get no detonation. Every engine is unique as far as best timing setting.  When you decrease the
dial setting number, you retard the engine timing. I can about guarantee you that every year your engine timing
will change on its own! And sometimes, you can get bad gas, and can dial back to prevent detonation. For $150, can't beat it!
But may need an MSD box to use it.

Dang misleading MSD instructions. Made me wast a lot of time. Instructions up front say you don't have to cut
a wire within the MSD timing adjusting unit, if you have a V8! Okay, I have a V8. Then later on in the fine print they say if you use a Mag pickup,
you have to cut a white wire! Well, the MSD distributor is a "mag pickup", so, upfront, they should say the white wire should be cut if installing
the timing unit in an MSD ignition system, with an MSD distributor!! Hope they read this! Made me waste two days trying to figure why
engine would turn over but not fire!!
« Last Edit: February 28, 2013 - 05:08:15 AM by cudabob496 »
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Electrical Question
« Reply #5 on: February 28, 2013 - 02:58:53 AM »
Glad you got it sorted out  :2thumbs:

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t

Offline cudabob496

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Re: Electrical Question
« Reply #6 on: February 28, 2013 - 08:23:12 PM »
Wow, this adjustable timing unit is pretty awesome.  You may be missing out
on 20 or 30 hp, and throw in a little octane boost, and who knows!  From my idle
rpm, I think I have increased total timing by at least 2 degrees, and car feels
stronger and more snappy.  I do use a little octane boost for safety, but did
not hear any pinging/detonation!
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000