ride height with air shocks

[high perf mopar]

thought i would post this for others to possibly help..

was considering changing the rear leaf springs to raise the rear ride height for that "perfect" look.springs r original 440-6 units.wheel lip at or just above the top of the tires,,275-60-15's..but, with all the spring choices,,stock,whatever that was,,+1.+2.+3...i think that it was going to be like that box of chocalets..what was i going to get.at 300.00+ with shipping.its not a race car..so.im currently using monroe air shocks specifly for the 71 barracuda,stock max lenght of 22.5"fully inflated,,stiff ride at that pressure.and still just a hair low for me,,.upon investigating a little further i found a set that has the same intalled dim except for the overall lenght pressurized..

26.25" vs 22.25"..monroe #ma757,stock,,,ma733 long..thats 4 " more than the stockers can provide..stock rear shocks for the barracuda and probably challenger too is 22.25"..the ride comparison between the airs and stockers when not fully inflated..the airs won out,so..tomorrow b-4 i start on the valve covers i will install the ma733's..i think in theory they should work quite nicely for what im trying to achieve,,,,,the perfect ride height...

http://www.monroe.com/assets/downloads/english/08_MountingLengthSheet.pdf

[Jamiez]

I'm no expert, but the prevailing wisdom is that the rear springs are designed to control the ride height.  The shocks are only to dampen the springs.  The upper shock mounts were not designed to support the car as they would in a ride height situation.

[high perf mopar]

I'm no expert, but the prevailing wisdom is that the rear springs are designed to control the ride height.  The shocks are only to dampen the springs.  The upper shock mounts were not designed to support the car as they would in a ride height situation.

true in everything u said but,,,,im not hauling a pallet of bricks either...just my fat a$$.and my battery in the trunk..they have been used since the 60's for this app..and if i could call up a spring supplier and say give me the springs that would give me "my" perfect ride height that would be great but not today,,we r only talking about a couple of inches rise..i hope my cars not that weak...

[Jesus H Chrysler]

I ended up putting a set of air shocks in my convertible years ago because it had the classic Chrysler ass dragging look.  I upgraded to Mopar Performance Hemi springs and torsion bars and that helped a bit until they started sagging within a few months.  The shocks got me the ride height, but stiff as hell ride comfort.  Are you saying the longer ones have a softer ride?

I consulted with a few local guys and one in particular had the ride height I wanted.  He had Super Stock springs in a Hemi Challenger with standard shocks.  Said it rode just fine.  Now I'm in the process of trying them out with my recent rebuild.  FWIW I've never been a fan of air shocks because of the ride issues (and threat of catastrophic deflation at the worst possible time!) but I hate the dragging ass look more, especially on a convertible.   Please post up how they ride compared to the shorter ones.   

[high perf mopar]

I ended up putting a set of air shocks in my convertible years ago because it had the classic Chrysler ass dragging look.  I upgraded to Mopar Performance Hemi springs and torsion bars and that helped a bit until they started sagging within a few months.  The shocks got me the ride height, but stiff as hell ride comfort.  Are you saying the longer ones have a softer ride?

I consulted with a few local guys and one in particular had the ride height I wanted.  He had Super Stock springs in a Hemi Challenger with standard shocks.  Said it rode just fine.  Now I'm in the process of trying them out with my recent rebuild.  FWIW I've never been a fan of air shocks because of the ride issues (and threat of catastrophic deflation at the worst possible time!) but I hate the dragging ass look more, especially on a convertible.   Please post up how they ride compared to the shorter ones.   

the theory is that with the ones monroe makes 4 the car which is the stock std lenght 22.5" if u want to achieve the wheel lip at the top of the tire,,me,,1 would have to fully pressurize the shock fully extended.no more travel.rigid pressurized tube,=harse ride,,so, with the longer ones there not fully extended rather riding on a cushion of air..and able to move with the road..

what your saying about the springs after a couple months sagging is why im looking at this route,,i currently have the stock lenght on there now,,plumbed them indepenant of one another for air filling,,raise or lower each side separately..i dont think theres any concern with sudden loss of air,,worse case scenario,,they settle back down on the 6-pak springs,,plumb them correctly and good to go..will install today but the car will not come off the jack stands for a few more weeks..

[johannes]

Thanks for sharing !!

Which I knew this a few years back....

Me, I've ordered these gizmos...not installed yet...but I've seen them installed on other cars...

Item# newitem69162898
Product Description
Give your shocks more lift.
These Mr. Gasket shock extensions are designed to give you extra length for applications were shock mounting has changed. They are available in aluminum or steel and fit either loop, tie bar or stud mounting ends..
MR.GASKET - Aluminum Shock Extensions
Loop-Style Ends - Pair
$30.95
MRG1288
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/reshex.html

[Chryco Psycho]

Air shocks would be the last thing I would put on 
The shock crossmember will hammer out over time , depending on weight & rough roads etc .
Second do not use a single air line run a seperate line to each , if you do not when you corner the air pressure will run away from the loaded side & exaggerate the lean in cornering .
 The best way to fix this is to add an extra leaf , I often use a main leaf with the rolled ends cut off under the original main leaf using new center bolts & U bolts , you can also use half leafs going forward to increase traction .

[wiging19]

I don't know if shops still do this but they used to ~ Take your springs, recurve them and add a leaf.  I'm thinking that would solve your problem and most people I knew that did it were very happy with the result.  As for the ass lean I've always thought that was part of the suspension design.  When you got on the car the rear would rise for better traction and you'd tear down the road.  Its not like a charger where you always have the front end lower looking. 

[high perf mopar]

well after installing today,,its up there where i wanted it but at 120 psi will take it out on the road in a few weeks when on vacation,,getting back from mopars at the strip las vegas,and see how it rides,,i think the theory might be flawed because of the amount of air pressure needed to get it there..

there could be a spring change in my future,,but its a crap shoot as to what it will sit at..possible espo +1's??
i dont know,,,looks good on the jack stands though,,right where i want it,,could ride like a buckboard!!LOL.

[Jesus H Chrysler]

You may be in the same boat I was.  I had mine 110-120 to get it where I liked it visually.  But it was really harsh.  And Chryco, now that you say that it makes sense, I had both plumbed together and it was sloppy handling.  I'm hoping the SS springs do the trick but if not I'll have a couple worthless Hemi leaf packs kicking around to pirate a leaf or two out of.  No more air shocks for me.

[Changin Gears]

I've never liked the low rear riding stock look either.  I've got around this by making/modifying the front spring hangers, moving the spring hole down ~1".  This keeps the spring rate the same, so you don't get a harsh ride.  But you might want to check pinion angle afterwards with any rear height modification.

[high perf mopar]

I've never liked the low rear riding stock look either.  I've got around this by making/modifying the front spring hangers, moving the spring hole down ~1".  This keeps the spring rate the same, so you don't get a harsh ride.  But you might want to check pinion angle afterwards with any rear height modification.

interesting,,,i have thought about modifying both the front and rear hangars,,rear shakle lenght's..but the front hangar?if 1 was to drop the front spring hangar 1" what does it translate to ride height.prob 1"lol.

[johannes]

I purchased 2" lift on rear springs on my Challenger....and felt it was WAY too little....
Would have ordered +3 or even +4 if I had a 2'nd chance....

When using air chocks, you can let air out if you want to run fast....and with a compressor you can lift the rear just for show...

Someone sent me a PM,...but I was unable to reply, as his inbox was full...

The below pic is NOT my car
Which air shocks it used I do not know, but I assume stock air chocks..,...but was running on extensions...

[johannes]

The below pic is NOT my car
Which air shocks it used I do not know, but I assume stock air chocks..,...but was running on extensions...

[johannes]

...The shock crossmember will hammer out over time , depending on weight & rough roads etc .
Second do not use a single air line run a seperate line to each , if you do not when you corner the air pressure will run away from the loaded side & exaggerate the lean in cornering ....

At the risk of de-railing the original topic...
I do not feel much concern aboat the extra loading caused by using air chock....
After all, the air chock is spring assist.... and I'm not running off road...
...and my tires allows for some chock load absorption...

As for running seperate air lines, this is a decently good idea, and often used.
I feel I need to stress the fact that a normal curve taking, is WAY too short to get much air transfere between the two air chocks.
.....the air lines have simply too small inner diameter to flow much air....
Now, un-even loading caused by faulty loading of trunk or passengers is a different matter...in this case separate air lines will be beneficial.
...and on a circular race track I guess....