'70 Challenger Rallye Gauge Cluster Restoration

[filmsurgeon]

I realize that similar topics have been posted in the past, but rather than piggy-back on an older post, I thought it might be better to start a fresh one.  I have searched this sight and others for info, and have read everything I could find.  I am "restoring/updating" the 1970 Rallye gauge cluster that the prior owner installed back in 2003.  I successfully removed everything including the switch panel from the dash (thanks to the advice/knowledge I gained from this site).  I also disassembled everything (see attached photos of individual components).  The cluster and instruments/gauges are in excellent condition.  However, the clock hasn't worked since I've owned the car (6.5 years; and probably has not worked for long before that); and the prior owner had installed an Auto-Meter Tach (looked like s**t).  Several years ago, I bought: a restored original 8K Rallye Tach (can't remember from who); a solid state quartz movement for the clock; new light tubes and lenses; new woodgrain faceplates.  I'd like to do as much as I can myself to save on cost.  I know the Tach will need to be updated/converted to solid state in order to work with my MSD style ignition box; I'll also need a solid state voltage limiter; I want to have the Ammeter converted to a Volt Meter; and the fuel, temp and oil gauges should be calibrated.  All orange needles need to be repainted due to fading (except for the Tach which is fully restored).  Fortunately for me, I live 20 minutes from Redline Gauge Works.  I visited them last week and showed them high res photos (on my laptop) of my individual components, and we discussed what they could do, and for what price.

Following is my "take-away" from that visit.

What I will do:

(1) Install the new woodgrain faceplate to the gauge/instrument cluster plastic bezel.  Redline doesn't really do that (but they did do it once??); and when they build new Rallye clusters for customers, they buy the bezels with the faceplates already installed.  *** Any recommendations on this installation will be greatly appreciated ***  I read another post where someone described bending the faceplate around a 3/4" pipe.  http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44460.0  Is this really the best way?
(2) "Restore" the switch cluster.  Basically, clean it up, repaint the switch knobs and lever, and install the new woodgrain faceplate.  *** Any recommendations on this installation ***; as well as correct paint for the headlight toggle switch lever, wiper switch knob, and dimmer switch knob will be greatly appreciated.

What Redline will do:  (I think all service and parts come with a 2 year warranty)

*** All needles will be repainted (except Tach, as it is a fully restored instrument)

(1) Speedometer "repair" = $180.  This is a recommendation from Redline.  I explained to them that the speedo looks like it's brand new.  They said it's best to take it apart and check and re-lube everything.  I don't know that a full price "repair" is in order.  Thoughts??

(2) Tach Conversion to solid state = $200.  I have no questions here.  They don't use RTE or PDD boards, or MSD adapters.  They have their own conversion approach.  I'd rather have it done by professionals, rather than trying to do it myself.  I have read where others have done this fairly easily using the above mentioned conversion options, but I feel it's best to leave this to those who have done it for years.

(3) Solid State Voltage Limiter = $43.  I have no questions here.

(4) Calibrate: Fuel, Oil, Temp Gauges = $40 (1/2 hour labor).  I have no questions here.

(5) Quartz Clock Conversion = $80 (1 hour labor).  I have no questions here.  They will use my part (same ones they use), and just charge me labor for install.

(6) Amp to Volt Meter Conversion = $160.  I have no questions here.  This should be done considering the power hungry non-stock add-ons (i.e. audio system, etc.).  Besides, it's just simply a safer alternative.

(7) Assembly and Detail = $80 (1 hour labor).  I have no questions here.  This includes polishing the clear plastic gauge/instrument cluster lens.

Total Redline cost = $783.00

*** I am also looking for help/info on installing the new indicator lenses (left, right, brake).

*** Any feedback about any aspect of this project is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

PS : Photos will be separated into two posts.

[filmsurgeon]

2nd Batch of Photos:

[JayBee]

Just one comment regarding the switches. If they haven't been refurbished I strongly suggest you connect member Slotts, he does a "better than new" job of restoring them. His company is JS Restorations and can be found in the Companies section.

http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=64880.0

[swede-cuda]

  wow,your oem wood plate covering the cluster seems to be almost pristine,thats a keeper.the knobs on the left pod for lights and wipers looks to be dirty and only needs a cleaning?? just thinkin out loud 

[ragtopdodge]

those prices from Redline are not out of line.

for the AMP to Voltage conversion, does that include the face plate change as well?  And does it sweep left to right?

[filmsurgeon]

those prices from Redline are not out of line.

for the AMP to Voltage conversion, does that include the face plate change as well?  And does it sweep left to right?

Thanks for your feedback.  I don't exactly know what they do on a Amp --> Volt conversion.  I assumed and hoped that the gauge faceplate would be kept looking stock.  It's a good question, and I'll definitely check with them before it's done.  I'll report back after the cluster is done.

[Sean]

Looking great so far!  Can't wait to see it all put together.

Sean

[Giveitawack]

When you bend the the switch panel woodgrain: Take measurements from the old. Mark with masking tape. Bend it over a tube is a good idea. Try different diameter tubes and compare it to the radius on the old one. You really need to get the bend in the right place.
Clean the back plate from all glue and rust. I bought new ones from PG Classic.
It's easy to get scratches in the woodgrain when you install it. Cover it with blue masking tape. If you get a scratch you will see it everytime you drive the car...

[ragtopdodge]

I would sell those PG classic panels.  THey're really not correct.


ONly ones I would put on a car are these pre-bent, totally correct Rallye panels:

http://www.performancecargraphics.com/Dash_Stuff/Woodgrain/E-body_Rallye_Wood_Plates.htm

[Giveitawack]

And the white on the headlight switch: I have had a few of these switches. All of them cleaned up with some soap and water. The off white looked fine. No need to paint. Same with the knobs. The yellow and blue paint is hidden under the dirt.
If you think of it, there can't be much wear down where the paint is.

[filmsurgeon]

Thanks for all the feedback guys.  I think I'm gonna stick with the PG Classic woodgrain bezels I already have.  I have plenty of stuff building up, that I still need to sell, and although the Performance Car Graphics bezels come pre-bent and attached to the steel plate, I just can't justify spending the $$$ for theirs, when I have decent new ones already.  I'll just have to deal with the bending (which I am confident I'll be able to do), and bond it to my steel backing plate.  BTW - It's interesting that Performance Car Graphics, BEAParts, PG Classic, Roseville Moparts, etc ALL sell these woodgrain faceplates for $250 (give or take a few dollars).  I'll definitely clean my switches first to see how they look and if they need repainting.  I'm considering maybe sending them out to Slotts for rebuild/restoration.

Here's something quite interesting that someone on the moparts.org message board pointed out (looking at my photo of the new light tubes and indicator lenses).  Although the new lenses have correct and unique notch patterns, the three new light tubes are identical to each other (they should be uniquely "tabbed" to match the unique notch pattens in the lenses).  I just now looked at what I took out of the car; one of the three tubes on the clear lens was incorrect (2 same, one different, instead of three different). Although all my new tubes are the same (for the RIGHT lens only), luckily it's the one that I was missing (I had two BRAKE tubes in the clear lens). Why are these being sold this way? I did buy my new ones several years ago, but I just looked on the web, and sellers are still selling 3 matching tubes. I guess when they repopped these, they didn't realize that each tube is unique. At least the repop LEFT, RIGHT, BRAKE lenses are correctly notched though.

[filmsurgeon]

Wanted to share a progress report on my instrument/gauge cluster. Got it back from Redline on Friday.  The work they did is superb. It took about one week.  They did everything that I listed in my initial post.  I ended up having to buy a housing from them because the previous owner had enlarged the Tach hole for an Autometer Tach (I didn't even notice this when I took the Autometer Tach out), and the original tach would't work in the enlarged hole (see 3rd to last photo).  They had some extras, and the cost was VERY reasonable.  They bead blast the housings and the backside of the instruments to look new.  When I picked up the finished cluster, Shannon (owner) performed a standard bench test for me on all the instruments/gauges.  I asked him to do this since it will be several months before I'm ready to install the cluster, and I wanted to see that everything was working correctly (BTW - their work is warrantied for 2 years).  He was more than willing to do this for me, and everything performed perfectly.

Regarding the last two photos:  Is it normal for the inside of the 4 holes (for the instruments/gauges) to be textured (see 2nd to last photo)?  Also, does anyone know if the thin circular foam seals that go in the indicator lens/light tube holes (in the back) are available (see photo)?  If not, what have others done when these are missing?  Any/all help is much appreciated.  Thanks.

[filmsurgeon]

Can anyone help on the thin foam seals that go in the holes on the backside of the black plastic housing that seal the the lens light tube?  Thanks.

[BIGSHCLUNK]

Thanks, this is a usefull thread. I recently have experienced the dreaded F'd up amp meter. And my OP gauge reads way hi after 3 different senders.  I'm was considering sending mine to redline,  Its good to see positive results. 

[filmsurgeon]

Latest update.  This is the finished Rallye switch panel.  New woodgrain faceplate that I bent and attached myself (came up with a great/simple method for matching the exact bend).  Restored panel dimmer and 3-Speed wiper-washer switch, original head light switch.  Knobs and lever cleaned up well.  Last thing to do is the instrument/gauge cluster housing/bezel/faceplate.  Thanks to all for the feedback.