silver 572 with red guts

[YellowThumper]

Is it in yet? Lol

[cordodge]

Is it in yet? Lol

today I will put it in finally.  have everything i need to fire it up in a couple days. just trying to find some smooth radiator hose clamps and a few odds and ends. it's about time though lol.

[brads70]

just trying to find some smooth radiator hose clamps and a few odds and ends.

Princess Auto has them in the hydraulic hose section. 

[cordodge]

Princess Auto has them in the hydraulic hose section. 

oh ok thanks Brad. that was easy.

[cordodge]

Ok so I was pretty excited this weekend as I was going to fire up the challenger but instead I am severely pissed off !!!. Primed it and then turned the key and it rolled over about 4 inches and stopped!!! First I thought it was that crappy powermaster starter I bought (not many fit with the world block and TTI headers) but I tried and turned it manually and it is very tight but when you wait a second it turns normally. it is acting like it is hydraulicing , I decided to removed valve covers and look at valve train all looks good( this engine was on the dyno and power tuned) I decided to remove the pushrods and the motor is nice and free, as I started to put the rods back in and adjust accordingly(hydraulic lifters with adjustable rocker arms) seems some of the lifters were hard as a rock and some were not? as I was rolling it every 90 degrees when I set one of the hard ones the motor got hard to turn over. Im not sure WTH is going on so im going to call the mopar tech line today and see what they say, I did talk with tim at for hemis only and he was a little baffled himself. I hope I don't have to pull that thing out.

Im so mad I could punch babies right now

[HP_Cuda]

Looks like you need to check the lash on each cylinder.

Some builders lean to under doing it and other over doing it.

Fun times....

[cordodge]

Looks like you need to check the lash on each cylinder.

Some builders lean to under doing it and other over doing it.

Fun times....

Hey yeah this thing has hydraulic lifters with adjustable rockers, just half a turn after contact kinda set it and forget it. primed it this morning 80 psi lots of oil flowing everywhere so just trying to eliminate things one at a time. very disappointed about it and hopefully I wont have to pull it out and send it to for hemis only but I may have to.

thanks bruce

[RzeroB]

Hey Bruce,

After your endless patience on this build I'm sorry to hear that you have encountered some major frustration just when you are ready to enjoy the fruits of your labor.   The weird thing is that you say the builder dyno'd this motor and it ran just fine?   What would be different between it being ran on the dyno and installed in your car? The actual oil in the pan maybe? Have you called Tim yet about this?

[cordodge]

Hey Bruce,

After your endless patience on this build I'm sorry to hear that you have encountered some major frustration just when you are ready to enjoy the fruits of your labor.   The weird thing is that you say the builder dyno'd this motor and it ran just fine?   What would be different between it being ran on the dyno and installed in your car? The actual oil in the pan maybe? Have you called Tim yet about this?

Thanks I am trying to remain calm lol. the engine was power tuned on the dyno, I was tinkering a bit this afternoon with it and with all the plugs out it rolls over like it should, done it by hand as well to feel for a tight spot and there is nothing spins great the valve train is working as it should and when I primed it I had lots of oil pressure and oil coming out of everywhere in rocker area. but here is where it gets weird if I put one spark plug in it anywhere it rotates about one revolution or until the compression stroke of that particular cylinder that the plug is in?? I mean it stops it dead?? if I wait a second it bleads down and it will move a bit more crazy!!.

anyway now im thinking there is nothing wrong with the motor I am thinking its the starter although I have tried two with the same result, its got me and a couple buddies of mine puzzled for sure, I talked with tim and he could not say for certain what it is.

one other thing that may be nothing is that when I removed the distributor to prime it I marked the placement of the dis. to the block and also the intermediate shaft and when I put it back the way it was when it is TDC the rotor button is pointed at #8, not sure what they had the total timing set at but im thinking that would explain that not sure, very baffling for sure, also there is zero noise like scraping or anything like that and the flywheel looks good I can spin the throwout bearing. anyway thanks for listening now I need a beer!!!!!!!!!!!

bruce

[Challenger in NC]

Keep at it, you'll get it figured out!

[RzeroB]

Hey Bruce,

Let me see if I have this right. With the plugs out, and the valve train properly lashed, you can rotate the engine over no problem right? But when you install one plug, any plug, it rotates and then stops when the cylinder with the plug installed comes up to tdc. Are you rotating the engine with the starter or with a breaker-bar and socket? With only one plug installed and a healthy bicep you should be able to continue to rotate the crank past tdc with a breaker bar and socket.

This may seem like a stupid remark, but you do have the correct length plugs in there like Champion N10Y's. A longer plug could be acting like a piston stop. No wait, you said you can turn it a little more if you let the compression bleed down, so never mind about the plug length thought! 

You tried a different starter and that didn't help so it may not be the starter. Battery up to the task? When you crank it over with the starter does it seem robust or weak? Did you check for proper voltage at the starter? I forget where you have your battery, but are you sure that the cable gauge size is correct for the length of the cable run?

[dodj]

Sounds like the battery and/or starter to me.  Parallel in another battery to make sure you are getting the current needed.

[cordodge]

Hey Bruce,

Let me see if I have this right. With the plugs out, and the valve train properly lashed, you can rotate the engine over no problem right? But when you install one plug, any plug, it rotates and then stops when the cylinder with the plug installed comes up to tdc. Are you rotating the engine with the starter or with a breaker-bar and socket? With only one plug installed and a healthy bicep you should be able to continue to rotate the crank past tdc with a breaker bar and socket.

This may seem like a stupid remark, but you do have the correct length plugs in there like Champion N10Y's. A longer plug could be acting like a piston stop. No wait, you said you can turn it a little more if you let the compression bleed down, so never mind about the plug length thought! 

You tried a different starter and that didn't help so it may not be the starter. Battery up to the task? When you crank it over with the starter does it seem robust or weak? Did you check for proper voltage at the starter? I forget where you have your battery, but are you sure that the cable gauge size is correct for the length of the cable run?

hey yeah direct to the starter with good size cable, well im gonna pull it all out and go from there. I would rather bite the bullet and pull it to find out whats wrong, going to the cottage this weekend to relax and come early next week come home and start on it, ill let you know what I find, thanks for following along.

bruce

[usraptr]

 

[Topcat]

What K frame system are you using?

Schumacher?

or

An OEM design set up?

Loose the Schumacher set up if that's what you have or you'll be looking at another R & R.