temp keeps going up slowly but steady

[dutch]

thanks guys    got some wrenching to do.... 

[dodj]

Am I the only one that thinks this is bass-ackwards?......

It is. Thermal fans are easy to turn when cold, hard to turn when hot. If yours spins easily when hot Bart, you need a new one. 

[dutch]

I started with the easiest part.  check for air....

so , how much flow am I supposed to see with the rad cap off?  I jacked up the front and started the car.  Kept it between 1500 and 2k rpm.  I saw the coolant going a bit back and forth, but no real flow and no bubbles either.  after a couple minutes temp reached 200 and had to shut it down.... 
I think the radiator may very well be the problem. Looked inside with a light and ( as far as I can see ) there is quiet a lot of oxidation in the channels.
I did reuse the waterpump that was already on the engine when I got the car, I think it is a stock pump... not sure.  Is there a way to test the pump in the car with a probably bad rad?
The fan clutch does feel different cold to hot, but when hot it still spins around 2-3 times when I give it a wack... that should be less huh...?  If money hadn`t been an issue ,I would toss out all cooling parts but I just cannot afford to do so...

[4 speed fish]

When a friend of mine and I cleared the air out of system the water temp climb to 220 and then the air in the system blowout like a volcano with antifreeze blowing everywhere.Ater that heating problem gone.I and not telling you to let your car get that hot just sharing with you what I experienced.I would replace the water pump will a hi volume first if that does nothing then move on to the radiator.

[EB3-GranCoupe]

I had the same issue, but my problem was the timing was way too advanced. Too much detonation before being sent out the exhaust will heat the motor up in a hurry!

[dutch]

wow.... I dont think I want to take the risk of blowing a headgasket with that temp....    almost reached that last sunday.... didnt like that 
did your friend also have no flow in the radiator before the blowout?

[4 speed fish]

Yes,the flow was not good.

[72cudamaan]

It is. Thermal fans are easy to turn when cold, hard to turn when hot. If yours spins easily when hot Bart, you need a new one. 

Okay, a little confusion on my part. http://www.haydenauto.com/featured%20products-fan%20clutches%20and%20fan%20blades/content.aspx
The fan clutch will turn hard momentarily when cold, then get easier. A higher heat it will get tight again.

[dutch]

Yes,the flow was not good.

been thinking about how this blowout could happen... my guess is your friend didn`t have a small hole it the stat?  I mean, the only way it can blow out like that is when the air bubble behind the stat reaches such a high temp that it will open     

This makes me wonder if my stat is ok.... it is a new one, but if it wont open, there would be no real flow through the radiator, right?

[Jamiez]

You can always pull the stat and put it in boiling water. You should be able to get it hot enough to observe the opening and closing. Of course you have to pull the stat which sucks because you have to drain the coolant

[73EStroker]

If, as you stated earlier, the rad has any crud in it then my money is on rad. You might get away with a flush but if it is an old unit then recoring or replacement may be the only answer. Lots of these old cars started life early with only water in the system which after a few years plugs the rad with baked in rust flakes from the block. I once had a 289 convertible Comet restored and it would gradually heat up on the hi way and up virtually every hill. Solution was a new rad then problems were gone. But for sure, first diagnose the cheap solutions but as I said my money is on the rad based on what has been said in this post.

[jimynick]

Bart, the coolant should start out cold and not moving very much. Then, when the stat opens, you should see the flow begin and the coolant will heat up fairly quickly. All this can be observed with the cap off. You should see movement and the level should suck down a bit when you rev it. Here's something no ones mentioned; how's the lower hose? It's not uncommon for one to collapse internally and many had a spring in them to prevent just that. All your drains should be nice and new, so I'd pull that stat and check it as mentioned before I yanked the rad. As for timing, if it's retarded it'll cause more heat because the burn cycle didn't have time to complete in the cylinder and keeps burning as it's pushed out. If you don't get any coolant movement, I'd look at the stat and pump first. Good luck, junge! Ian

[dutch]

ok,  I pulled the stat this morning and started the car.  Immediate flow and a bunch of bubbles for about 2 minutes.  Engine was running fine, but suddenly there was noise coming from the waterpump area.  I wanted to grab the stethoscope to locate the noise and saw my garage had filled up with a huge cloud of white smoke......... looks like I`ve got some wrenching to do   

[dutch]

pulled the plugs and they look to be ok...would there be something to see when it ran for 2 min. burning coolant ?   I was wondering... what if a headerbolt leaked into the header... would that give big clouds instantly ?  any one ever see this happen?   feeling kinda    right now...

[Strawdawg]

the coolant did not come from the water puimp seal?