Author Topic: E-Brake Pedal Restoration Tips?  (Read 6870 times)

Offline filmsurgeon

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E-Brake Pedal Restoration Tips?
« on: April 18, 2013 - 05:43:30 AM »
I didn't know whether to post this on the "Suspension, Wheels/Tires, and Brakes" forum, or this one since it has something to do with something within the interior.  I am looking for advice and/or tips on restoring an E-Brake Pedal Assembly.  My assembly is in excellent condition, but the previous owner painted it entirely black.  I am considering doing a "mild" restoration myself.  Basically making it look like how they were originally.  I don't know if it's really worth all the trouble of disassembly, bead blasting, cleaning, painting and reassembly since most of the assembly (except for the pedal/arm) is hidden behind the kick panel.  Has anyone done a restoration of their own assembly themselves?  It does not look like a simple process of disassembly.  If you did your own, did you disassemble/reassemble it, and if so how?  Any tips, advice, suggestions, and especially photos are appreciated.  I've attached a couple of photos of other's restored pedal assemblies.  Thanks.
1970 Challenger Convertible (JH27N0B); Resto-Mod; 605 HP, 412cid Small Block; Holley 750CFM Carburetor; A-833 23-spline 4-SPD; A-body 8.75 rear-end w/3.55 gears; 3" mini-tub; leaf spring relocation kit with split-leaf mono and Caltracs; American Racing AR500 Wheels, Rears = 15x10 (5.5" BS) with 315/60-15 BFG Comp T/A Drag Radials; Fronts = 15x7 (3.5" BS) with 215/70-15 BFG Radial T/A Radials.




Offline usraptr

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Re: E-Brake Pedal Restoration Tips?
« Reply #1 on: April 18, 2013 - 01:21:39 PM »
 :popcorn:
1970 Plymouth 'Cuda.  Matching numbers 440 U Code, 4 speed pistol grip, Rallye dash, AM 8 Track, Shaker hood, 15 inch rallye wheels, Dana 60 4.10, Super Track Pak.  One of 134 - 440 "U" coupes codes built in 1970 and one of 100 - 440 Super Track Paks built in 1970.

Restoration pictures at:  http://spanks4thememory.smugmug.com/Cars/70-Cuda/7240639_M24oi#465274575_2MBqW
(Edited 8-1-17)

"usraptr" = United States raptor - bird of prey = United States Bald Eagle.  FYI, somebody else thought of it first so I had to drop the "O" in raptor.

Offline HP_Cuda

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Re: E-Brake Pedal Restoration Tips?
« Reply #2 on: April 18, 2013 - 01:29:54 PM »

Ok now I have a question, how will you put up the kick panel?
1970 Cuda Clone 440 4 speed - sublime green
1970 Cuda 383 4 speed - yellow - SOLD

Offline 73RallyeChallenger

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Re: E-Brake Pedal Restoration Tips?
« Reply #3 on: April 18, 2013 - 01:46:02 PM »
Kick panel is cut-out to go around the e-brake mechanism, it does not go behind it.
73 Triple Black 340 Challenger
70 Plum Crazy T/A Challenger - work in progress (AGAR)

Offline anlauto

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Re: E-Brake Pedal Restoration Tips?
« Reply #4 on: April 18, 2013 - 04:47:43 PM »
I do them all the time. http://www.alangallantautomotiverestoration.com/COMPONENT-RESTORATION.html (scroll down).

The one you posted pictures of is absolutely beautiful and restored correctly :thumbsup:

For mine I don't completely take them apart like that, but they look almost as good and probably cost a heck of a lot cheaper.

If yours is painted, I would strip the old paint off to bare metal. You could leave it bare or painted it steel colour for life long protection. Then just detail all the separate parts.
I've taught you everything you know.....but I haven't taught you everything I know !
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Offline HP_Cuda

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Re: E-Brake Pedal Restoration Tips?
« Reply #5 on: April 18, 2013 - 11:44:41 PM »

Hmm I'll have to take another look at mine...

Kick panel is cut-out to go around the e-brake mechanism, it does not go behind it.
1970 Cuda Clone 440 4 speed - sublime green
1970 Cuda 383 4 speed - yellow - SOLD

Offline filmsurgeon

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Re: E-Brake Pedal Restoration Tips?
« Reply #6 on: April 19, 2013 - 12:42:30 AM »
Here are a couple of photos of mine.  Is it worth spending the $$$ to have someone make it look factory?  Does it really need to be disassembled for this?  Again, I know much of the assembly is hidden behind the kick-panel, and I'm not restoring a "factory show car".  Just interested in maybe making it look more correct.  Thanks for all the feedback.
1970 Challenger Convertible (JH27N0B); Resto-Mod; 605 HP, 412cid Small Block; Holley 750CFM Carburetor; A-833 23-spline 4-SPD; A-body 8.75 rear-end w/3.55 gears; 3" mini-tub; leaf spring relocation kit with split-leaf mono and Caltracs; American Racing AR500 Wheels, Rears = 15x10 (5.5" BS) with 315/60-15 BFG Comp T/A Drag Radials; Fronts = 15x7 (3.5" BS) with 215/70-15 BFG Radial T/A Radials.

Offline filmsurgeon

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Re: E-Brake Pedal Restoration Tips?
« Reply #7 on: April 28, 2013 - 03:14:34 AM »
Hey Guys,
Just thought I'd post an update.  I decided to try and do this myself.  I stripped off the paint, and wire wheeled (+ dremel w/small wire wheel, and scouring pad) to remove the mild surface rust.  I think it came out pretty clean.  I'm just going to spray it to "look" factory.  Lucky for me, I can still see the original "line" where the pedal arm was dipped in black.  Unfortunately, I realized as I was working on this that there was no parking brake switch when I took the assembly out of the car (thanks previous owner).  Does anyone know where I can get one, and where/how in the wiring harness is it connected?  Thanks.

1970 Challenger Convertible (JH27N0B); Resto-Mod; 605 HP, 412cid Small Block; Holley 750CFM Carburetor; A-833 23-spline 4-SPD; A-body 8.75 rear-end w/3.55 gears; 3" mini-tub; leaf spring relocation kit with split-leaf mono and Caltracs; American Racing AR500 Wheels, Rears = 15x10 (5.5" BS) with 315/60-15 BFG Comp T/A Drag Radials; Fronts = 15x7 (3.5" BS) with 215/70-15 BFG Radial T/A Radials.

Offline filmsurgeon

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Re: E-Brake Pedal Restoration Tips?
« Reply #8 on: April 29, 2013 - 04:46:04 AM »
I realized as I was working on this that there was no parking brake switch when I took the assembly out of the car (thanks previous owner).  Does anyone know where I can get one, and where/how in the wiring harness is it connected?  Thanks.

Any help here?
1970 Challenger Convertible (JH27N0B); Resto-Mod; 605 HP, 412cid Small Block; Holley 750CFM Carburetor; A-833 23-spline 4-SPD; A-body 8.75 rear-end w/3.55 gears; 3" mini-tub; leaf spring relocation kit with split-leaf mono and Caltracs; American Racing AR500 Wheels, Rears = 15x10 (5.5" BS) with 315/60-15 BFG Comp T/A Drag Radials; Fronts = 15x7 (3.5" BS) with 215/70-15 BFG Radial T/A Radials.

Offline filmsurgeon

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Re: E-Brake Pedal Restoration Tips?
« Reply #9 on: April 29, 2013 - 05:48:23 PM »
Is there any difference between these two switches, other than what appears to be different part numbers?  Part description is in the JPG filename.  Thanks.

1970 Challenger Convertible (JH27N0B); Resto-Mod; 605 HP, 412cid Small Block; Holley 750CFM Carburetor; A-833 23-spline 4-SPD; A-body 8.75 rear-end w/3.55 gears; 3" mini-tub; leaf spring relocation kit with split-leaf mono and Caltracs; American Racing AR500 Wheels, Rears = 15x10 (5.5" BS) with 315/60-15 BFG Comp T/A Drag Radials; Fronts = 15x7 (3.5" BS) with 215/70-15 BFG Radial T/A Radials.

Offline filmsurgeon

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Re: E-Brake Pedal Restoration Tips?
« Reply #10 on: April 30, 2013 - 04:43:30 PM »
 :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn:
1970 Challenger Convertible (JH27N0B); Resto-Mod; 605 HP, 412cid Small Block; Holley 750CFM Carburetor; A-833 23-spline 4-SPD; A-body 8.75 rear-end w/3.55 gears; 3" mini-tub; leaf spring relocation kit with split-leaf mono and Caltracs; American Racing AR500 Wheels, Rears = 15x10 (5.5" BS) with 315/60-15 BFG Comp T/A Drag Radials; Fronts = 15x7 (3.5" BS) with 215/70-15 BFG Radial T/A Radials.

Offline filmsurgeon

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Re: E-Brake Pedal Restoration Tips?
« Reply #11 on: February 01, 2014 - 12:07:13 AM »
Well ...... I thought I'd post an update on this.  Here is the "restoration" I did on my E-Brake Pedal Assembly (I use the term "restoration" lightly).  I got a NOS switch (I know the nut is not correct), painted the body using Rustoleum stainless steel, masked and painted the pedal arm semi-gloss black, installed new pedal bumper, and release lever bushing, BRAKE RELEASE handle was detailed with fresh paint for the lettering, etc, etc.
« Last Edit: February 01, 2014 - 01:25:02 AM by filmsurgeon »
1970 Challenger Convertible (JH27N0B); Resto-Mod; 605 HP, 412cid Small Block; Holley 750CFM Carburetor; A-833 23-spline 4-SPD; A-body 8.75 rear-end w/3.55 gears; 3" mini-tub; leaf spring relocation kit with split-leaf mono and Caltracs; American Racing AR500 Wheels, Rears = 15x10 (5.5" BS) with 315/60-15 BFG Comp T/A Drag Radials; Fronts = 15x7 (3.5" BS) with 215/70-15 BFG Radial T/A Radials.

Offline usraptr

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Re: E-Brake Pedal Restoration Tips?
« Reply #12 on: February 01, 2014 - 12:16:43 AM »
It looks really good.   :2thumbs:  I'm in the process of doing mine now.  I soaked mine in parts cleaner over night then media blasted it.  I didn't disassemble it.  Since the metal, except the arm, was not painted originally, I decided to not paint mine but instead used Rust Preventative Magic (I think that's the name) on the bare metal and then painted the arm gloss black.  Haven't quite finished yet.  I'll post pics when I'm done.
1970 Plymouth 'Cuda.  Matching numbers 440 U Code, 4 speed pistol grip, Rallye dash, AM 8 Track, Shaker hood, 15 inch rallye wheels, Dana 60 4.10, Super Track Pak.  One of 134 - 440 "U" coupes codes built in 1970 and one of 100 - 440 Super Track Paks built in 1970.

Restoration pictures at:  http://spanks4thememory.smugmug.com/Cars/70-Cuda/7240639_M24oi#465274575_2MBqW
(Edited 8-1-17)

"usraptr" = United States raptor - bird of prey = United States Bald Eagle.  FYI, somebody else thought of it first so I had to drop the "O" in raptor.

Offline Moparparts

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Re: E-Brake Pedal Restoration Tips?
« Reply #13 on: February 01, 2014 - 02:40:03 PM »
Looks good refinished but your handle rod is bent down where the spring goes out over it that should be straight in that area and it could cause some binding. If it is lubed it probably will still slide OK just figured i would let you know.

Offline filmsurgeon

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Re: E-Brake Pedal Restoration Tips?
« Reply #14 on: February 01, 2014 - 03:22:13 PM »
Looks good refinished but your handle rod is bent down where the spring goes out over it that should be straight in that area and it could cause some binding. If it is lubed it probably will still slide OK just figured i would let you know.

I did not realize the rod was supposed to be straight.  The rod was bent when I took the assembly out of the car, and I didn't think to check if that was incorrect.  Thanks for the tip.  I'll try and straighten the rod with the assembly still mounted in the car.  I may not get it perfect, but I know I can remove most of the bend to allow the rod to move more freely.
1970 Challenger Convertible (JH27N0B); Resto-Mod; 605 HP, 412cid Small Block; Holley 750CFM Carburetor; A-833 23-spline 4-SPD; A-body 8.75 rear-end w/3.55 gears; 3" mini-tub; leaf spring relocation kit with split-leaf mono and Caltracs; American Racing AR500 Wheels, Rears = 15x10 (5.5" BS) with 315/60-15 BFG Comp T/A Drag Radials; Fronts = 15x7 (3.5" BS) with 215/70-15 BFG Radial T/A Radials.