I will wait for your post then! 
I wont drill the holes in my hood but use a 16mm hole punch instead (roughly 5/8 inch) I think that should make a cleaner hole than a drill. or what do you guys think?
Okay, so the 1st time I installed the hood-pin bezels, I did it like probably everyone else had done. What happened (at least in my case) was when I tightened the screws, the bezel collapsed/flattened at the screw holes (see photo #1 of flattened bezel). The reason for the collapsing/flattening is because the "ridge" on the underside of the screw hole is not as deep as the center hole's and outer bezel's ridge (see photo #2). If you have the standard repop hood-pin kit, you'll see that the bezels are slightly dome shaped (see photos #3 & 4; these are 2nd install). The dome shape (on my first install) was basically lost when the screws were tightened (I don't feel that I overtightened them either). The other problem with my first install was: When I drilled the screw holes, I held the drill bit perpendicular (at a 90 degree angle to the hood surface). ** Tip: Hold the bezel in your hand; put one oval-head screw into the bezel's screw hole, and hold it down with your thumb (or finger) such that the screw's threaded stud is exactly in the center of the hole (look underneath and make sure it's not touching any sides of the hole's ridge). When you do this, the screw's head will be in the same "plane" as the angle of the domed bezel. When the screw is properly aligned in the screw hole, the threaded stud is NOT perpendicular (90 degrees) to the bottom of the bezel. It is angled slightly inward toward the center of the bezel. That slight angle is the same angle that the drill bit should be to the hood's surface (I just did my best to "eye-ball" the angle the second time around). ** Tip: To prevent collapsing/flattening of the bezel when the screws are tightened, I used "sealing washers" in between the underside of the bezel's screw holes and the bezel's rubber gasket (see photo #5 of sealing washer). I believe I ended up placing the washer on top the rubber gasket with the sealing side down. I can't remember what size I used, but you'll find them at your local Big Box or hardware store in various sizes (it should be fairly obvious what the best size is once you see the variety). ** Tip: The other thing I did the 2nd time around was to use stainless oval-head machine screws instead of the supplied self-tapping, oval-head sheet metal screws. Of course, you'll need to drill slightly larger holes if you use the machine screws. I also used stainless nuts, washers and lock washers. I ended up using two different length screws so that I didn't have too much extra thread showing beyond the nuts (see photo #6 & 7), but have decided to cut off the visible excess thread to get an even cleaner look (so, in the end, I really didn't need two different length screws). Maybe I'm just a bit anal, but I couldn't stand looking at the distorted/flattened bezels of my first install, nor did I like the look of the sheet metal screw tips poking through the underside of the hood (IMO - the machine screws with nuts/washers looks more professional). To get the best results, it takes time, patience, and accuracy. Don't rush the job. It's a bit more of a PITA doing it the way I did it on the 2nd go around, but I'm MUCH happier with the end results. BTW - I implemented many of the same tips in the process that are documented by "67vertman", and the tips provided by the other members in that thread (especially the one about temporarily installing the hood pins and putting grease (I used a tiny dab of white paint) on top of the pin, then lowering the hood to transfer.
