Manual to automatic interior hump

[CudamanTom]

Just curious as to what my options are.
I did a little searching for the answer but only found the reverse config (auto to manual).

If you have the manual shift hump in a 71 cuda, do you have to change out the hump if you swap to automatic engine/tranny set-up?
Or will a manual shift hump work?

Thank you in advance!!!

Tom

[Chryco Psycho]

you can leave the manual hump in place , the console will still need to be notched for clearance , the big problem is where the belcrank for the shift linkage drops through the floor , it is supported above & below the floor you just need clearance for the linkage .

[CudamanTom]

you can leave the manual hump in place , the console will still need to be notched for clearance , the big problem is where the belcrank for the shift linkage drops through the floor , it is supported above & below the floor you just need clearance for the linkage .

Thank you Chryco!!!
I was hoping it wouldn't be a big deal.

Tom

[CudamanTom]

Okay, I tried to do a little search among all these threads and might have overlooked the answer, but If I stayed with a 4 speed (which the hump is in place) and I do have a 833, how deep is the hole in the crankshaft for the 833 shaft to fit into? I measured roughly around 2 1/2 inches deep. This 440 engine currently has a 727 trans attached (well it did about 30 minutes ago).
So now I'm debating using the 833 which has been recently overhauled from the prior owner.
I just want to make sure I'm getting my specs straight.

Let me also add:
My cuda currently has a 440 with a 833. The 833 is overhauled but the 440 needs overhauled, no gettin around it.
I recently found a pepped up 440 (I saw and heard it run and sounds solid) with a 727. The whole set-up looks good.
BUT, the cuda is set-up with the 4 speed hump and the correct pedals (brake and clutch). I need just a few parts to get the 833 functioning.
This is why I have been entertaining either option. Now that I pulled the 727 and saw the crankshaft with the deeper hole (I think) I might and kinda prefer to go with this.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!!!
Thank you,
Tom

[Chryco Psycho]

that should work fine , I do not have the depth memorized , the pilot bushing goes in about 1" & you need clearanc beyond that but 1.5 " should be enough , you can also use the Dakota roller type pilot bushing .
 If you have the 833 I would definatly stay with the 4 spd but I never learned to drive an Auto LOL

[CudamanTom]

that should work fine , I do not have the depth memorized , the pilot bushing goes in about 1" & you need clearanc beyond that but 1.5 " should be enough , you can also use the Dakota roller type pilot bushing .
 If you have the 833 I would definatly stay with the 4 spd but I never learned to drive an Auto LOL

Thank you again Chryco,
I will check into the Dakota.
And I am leaning more to the 833.
I first learned to drive in a standard shift VW van back in the late 70s . It's never been the same driving an Auto ever since so your good.  LOL 
Am I'm serious on that story too. 

[CudamanTom]

So which leads me to another question...
If I take the flywheel off the old 440 and place it on the newer 440 in the same position as the crank from the old 440, will that help with balance issues?
Basically, is the balance the same on both 440s or is there a difference when concerning the crank? If a difference, how would I know it?
Thanks again.
Tom

[Chryco Psycho]

440s into 72 were all steel crank neutral balance , mid 72 some have cast crank requiring external balance , the front damper is thin [approx1"]  thick on steel crank engines , Cast crank engines have a much thicker damper 1 3/4" or so & have an offset to them . If the engine is steel crank you should be good but the flywheel could be off any V8 engine so it may have a balance that is wrong for both steel or cast crank 440 .
 You need to check the back of the flywheel for balance holes drilled into the rear face . McLeod has new balanced or unbalanced flywheels available .