Rear disk brakes=green bearings?

[shadango]

I was at a crusie today and a guy I have seen there before and I were talking...he has a sweeeeeeeet stroked bog block Dart.....anyways, he has a 3 year old rear disk brake setup from SSBC that he swapped out for 13" wilwoods and he is asking $225 or so for the setup......He paid $50-500. Said the pads are like new and he turned the rotors...he is an instructor at a local mechanics school and he seems to know what he is talking about. Not many miles on the setup since its a cruise car.

I am very tempted, but he said this kit requires green bearings.  Now, I have seen a lot of discussion here about green bearings...some for, some very much against.  He told me he has been running them for years with no issues.

He also said that to his knowledge, ANY rear disk conversion will require them.....none that he is aware of use the stock tapered setup.

Anyone know if thats true?

The brake kit uses the hydraulic screw type e-brake.

Anyone care to comment on any of this?

My left rear seal is leaking again so I guess I have to stop himhawing and do my rear housing swap out I have been putting off (I should have done it over winter but didnt)....and swapping in disks at the same time just makes sense.

Thanks in advance guys!

[brads70]

My rear discs from DrDiff use tapered roller bearings? I think they were around $500ish?

[HP_Cuda]

I have tapered bearings like Brad there and there is no real super difference between the two.

An old buddy who used to be a Mopar mechanic for 35+ years said the green bearings usually wear out before the tapered.

[brads70]

I have no personal experience with "green bearings" but I know people that do and they didn't have positive experiences with them. So I went with what I KNOW works?

[shadango]

thanks guys........also wondering if the e brake for these kits is always the caliper type and how reliable that is....

[drewcrane]

I have about 15 years on my green bearings ,wilwood discs on all 4 and thousands of miles and still not wrinkled

[73EStroker]

Brad - I am not sure if a clarification is required from your post. I believe the query from Shadango was referring to the original Mopar adjustable taper roller setup. Your pictures show what looks like the Ford double sealed taper roller bearings which require changing out the bearing housing ends over stock ones. I am considering doing the bearing conversion from green to these double taper units so have to redo the bearing housings. Shadango  i can tell you that the green conversion uses the stock Mopar bearing housings. If you go with them make sure you put the axle seals in so that the diff oil does not try and wash the grease from the sealed greens as it splashes right against the bearing seal when you are cornering. It will eventually work through the seal.

[Chryco Psycho]

As I recall I used SSBC on the rear of a Chall & I am sure we did not change brgs to use them , we never left them on though as the caliper was so wide it hit the rear sway bar , Most rear disc system use a cailper park brake no issues that way . I am almost sure there is more than 1 Rear disc system that does require Green brgs . The other problem I had with green brgs is the axle sat deeper in the housing requiring the removal of the floating spacer or trimming the axles off 1/4 or so .
 Personally I prefer the tapered brgs for adjusability & life expectancy

[brads70]

Brad - I am not sure if a clarification is required from your post. I believe the query from Shadango was referring to the original Mopar adjustable taper roller setup. Your pictures show what looks like the Ford double sealed taper roller bearings which require changing out the bearing housing ends over stock ones. I am considering doing the bearing conversion from green to these double taper units so have to redo the bearing housings. Shadango  i can tell you that the green conversion uses the stock Mopar bearing housings. If you go with them make sure you put the axle seals in so that the diff oil does not try and wash the grease from the sealed greens as it splashes right against the bearing seal when you are cornering. It will eventually work through the seal.

 Yep I know they are not stock but didn't know they were Ford? I had tapered roller bearings in my old 8 3/4 and never had a problem.
A buddy ran the green bearings in his oval track car and they lasted one night and they were scrap. He then installed tapered rollers and they have been in there for years now with no issues.

[shadango]

So I think the kit I am looking at from the guy I know is this one:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-bk1329-x/media/images

I do not think they are SSBC---couldnt find them on the ssbc site....

Any thoughts?

[shadango]

My rear discs from DrDiff use tapered roller bearings? I think they were around $500ish?

What size rotors??

[brads70]

What size rotors??

10.7 I believe They are from a Toyota Cressida 1989 (I  think that's the correct year?)

[shadango]

As I recall I used SSBC on the rear of a Chall & I am sure we did not change brgs to use them , we never left them on though as the caliper was so wide it hit the rear sway bar , Most rear disc system use a cailper park brake no issues that way . I am almost sure there is more than 1 Rear disc system that does require Green brgs . The other problem I had with green brgs is the axle sat deeper in the housing requiring the removal of the floating spacer or trimming the axles off 1/4 or so .
 Personally I prefer the tapered brgs for adjusability & life expectancy

Cass from Dr Diff says that the newer, c clip style green bearings eliminate that problem and the thrust block can stay in. They also leave some "wiggle room" since all housings are not perfectly straight.....

I do not have a swap bar (yet)......as stiff as my rear is with the add a leafs, I do not know I would ever need one....lol

[msbaugh]

I just use timken tappered bearings... I can still adjust rear end play and they have not given me any issues.  Kind of off topic, but I was chasing a rear end leak on my passenger side for a while.  Turns out when I pulled the old seals out it was missing the round spring thingy that keeps it flush with the axle.  All I had to do was drive a new one in with the ring and my leak disapeared

[shadango]

I just use timken tappered bearings... I can still adjust rear end play and they have not given me any issues.  Kind of off topic, but I was chasing a rear end leak on my passenger side for a while.  Turns out when I pulled the old seals out it was missing the round spring thingy that keeps it flush with the axle.  All I had to do was drive a new one in with the ring and my leak disapeared

Yeah I have been thru a few seals already chasing that leak, and they have all had the springy doohickey......