Which parts from which manufacturer?

[Cuda416]

I have a possible line on a good deal for some Goodmark ebody parts. I understand and agree that AMD makes the best panels, but what about the internal structural parts? I need a lot of metal for my project and I'm on a fairly tight budget. I'd like opinions on the following items either way and why if possible.

Rear Frame rails
Rear Cross member
Tail Panel
Floor pans
Wheel houses
Drop offs
Lower Cowl side panels
upper cowl
Shaker Hood

Thanks everyone!

C

[anlauto]

Your best bet for rear frame rails and cross member is to buy the rear floor section already assembled from DII.

Not only will it save you money to purchase it will speed up the installation time.

They only make this for a Challenger, but can easily be converted to Cuda by changing the fuel filler hole.

There's pictures of one being installed here: http://www.alangallantautomotiverestoration.com/1971-440-6-Challenger.html

[Cuda416]

anlauto, I've seen those assemblies and it's definitely a consideration. Those are awesome pieces to be sure. Thanks for the link!

My current plan (up until I found out about the deal was to go with that piece and cut/move/patch the filler hole. Now I am thinking if I can get a good enough deal, get the DII part, then get a whole new Cuda trunk floor and replace it, then sell the DII one to someone needing a Challenger part to recoup some of the cost.

-C

[anlauto]

I think if you buy the one piece rear section, then drill off the Challenger trunk floor, replace it with a Cuda floor, you're just take a huge step backwards. The new parts have nice looking spot welds etc...and nobody's going to give you a decent price for the Challenger floor with a bunch of holes it it, when they can just go buy a new one

[Cuda416]

While I understand what you mean, I think changing the floor would look loads better than moving a hole in that floor. I'd not be looking to get full, or even near full price for the one removed. Typically one drills holes for the welds anyway. I could always keep the thing in case my kids come to there senses and go Mopar as well The huge benefit for me obviously would be the fact that I'd not have to line it all up. That's done and a huge reason to go with these parts.


Thanks again

Oh, is that your car in the link? Nice..

[Edison1970]

I just used Goodmark parts.  So far, so good.  Yes, you will have to work them to fit correctly but after looking at the factory parts I removed, the original stuff didn't fit that good either.  They used tons of seam sealer to cover up the sloppy fit.  I used upper cowl, quarter patch, tail panel, trunk drop off, full quarter and tail panel corner.  The biggest disappointment so far was the tail panel corner bracket.  It doesn't even come close to fitting correctly.  I am debating whether to use the original or continue to reshape the Goodmark piece.  The previous owner gave me a two piece trunk pan from Year One.  I spent days trying to get it to fit.  If my funds were better, I would have just ordered a one piece from Goodmark.  The pans were old though.  I can't remember what was on the sticker but they were at least 5 years old so maybe the newer ones are better.

[73RallyeChallenger]

Alan, on the 71 car the back of the car didn't even look that bad to warrant replacing all that factory metal. What kind of shape were the rear frame rails in? My car looks alot worse than this car, and I was hoping to patch...lol.

What kind of primer did the shop use on the shell, it looks like a weld-thru primer? Is that an NOS rear valance panel? Also what type of weld did keith use on the upper rear quarter panel? Was it a lap joint, or a butt weld. Looks pretty amazing whatever he did.

I think you have me convinced to use the Dynacorn rear section assembly and scrap my rear frame rails as well, as they need a few/numerous patches, not too mention pitted and thinning metal.

[anlauto]

Good Questions: 

Metal work is expensive !

If you're a do-it-yourselfer at home with a mig welder then it might be feasible to go at the rusted parts of your frame rails and start fabbing patches and welding them in...a patch here...a patch there...etc...

Once you have a car sandblasted 100%, you'll soon realize just how many pins holes you have and just how thin the metal in your frame rails can actually be....then you have to ask yourself, how strong will patched up rails be?

Another reason to patch up rails might be if your the real anal type that wants to save every ounce of original metal possible.

In the case of my 71 Challenger, both rear rails would have required patches at the very back, near the torque boxes and also near the rear cross member. The car also needed a trunk floor and rear floor patches.

Keith Sim and I have done many, many rusted projects together...We have a method of calculating the cost of repairing vs the cost of replacing and nine times out of ten, it's cheaper to buy a new panel and replace it, then it would be to fabricate and patch up the original areas. With this much of the rear of the car needing work, the one piece DII panel was a no brainer.

The primer used is a BASF DP30 epoxy primer.

Yes it is an original NOS rear valance. It came with the car when I bought it..nice 70-71 piece.

Keith always butt welds panels with a Tig Welder...very little grinding needed.

 

[72cudamaan]

I have a possible line on a good deal for some Goodmark ebody parts. I understand and agree that AMD makes the best panels, but what about the internal structural parts? I need a lot of metal for my project and I'm on a fairly tight budget. I'd like opinions on the following items either way and why if possible.

Rear Frame rails
Rear Cross member
Tail Panel
Floor pans
Wheel houses
Drop offs
Lower Cowl side panels
upper cowl
Shaker Hood

Thanks everyone!

C

Ask your supplier. I know when I bought all of my sheetmetal from Dave at Roseville, he told me which supplier had the best pieces to use.

[Cuda416]

Ask your supplier. I know when I bought all of my sheetmetal from Dave at Roseville, he told me which supplier had the best pieces to use.

While I certainly know about Dave's excellent reputation, I didn't think it a "nice" idea to ask him what fits if I am possibly going to get parts elsewhere. That's just not kosher. I'm not saying you are implying that's what I do, rather I am pointing out, as I said, I am on a very tiight budget and so i am having to pick and choose what and from whom I get parts.

I'm not the type to take advantage of someone's good nature like that, especially when they've helped a community such as this so much.

Thanks!

[72cudamaan]

While I certainly know about Dave's excellent reputation, I didn't think it a "nice" idea to ask him what fits if I am possibly going to get parts elsewhere. That's just not kosher. I'm not saying you are implying that's what I do, rather I am pointing out, as I said, I am on a very tiight budget and so i am having to pick and choose what and from whom I get parts.

I'm not the type to take advantage of someone's good nature like that, especially when they've helped a community such as this so much.

Thanks!

I'm glad you agree with me on this. I feel exactly the same way. I guess that's why I worded as I did. Also remember though, as a CC.Com
member you can get an extra discount from Roseville as well. So count him out until you get a coupla prices from him.