One way to get air.

[cudabob496]

Side note. I know this is not everyone's taste but I use to have a cheap Edelbrock foam air cleaner on this engine. I recently found out that it was sucking the hood insulation down and causing the engine to lack air and stall or run rough. So I wanted to try something new. Take a look at the pic and let me know what you think. The throttle response was greatly improved and although it looks modern the green filter matches the car color and is washable just like a K&N. Also all the parts are polished aluminum. So it looks pretty flashy.
Sorry the engine and bay is not very nice yet. I still have a ton of work to do.

Actually, your air filter is ideally positioned for a cowl induction setup. Lot of cold air under pressure
at the base of your front windshield. Would just have to do a little fabrication. In photos below, the blue
truck, and 69 chevelle, have a cowl setup. I think the trans am series race cars in the 70's used it too.

http://www.ramairbox.com/install.html

[Strawdawg]

need to remove the hood seal

[cudabob496]

need to remove the hood seal

don't think so, at least for my car. Even with the seal, the cowl area has a big opening for the cars
ventilation system. One could tap into that area. The seal may even help to keep hot engine compartment
air from being inducted.

[Strawdawg]

so then the current filter is not in the idea place because it needs to be "tapped" into the cowl vent.  In reality, removing the hood seal allows hot air and fumes from under the hood to be pulled into the vent and onward into the car interior.  That is why the seal is there as well as to minimize water leakage

When constructing a duct from the cowl vent area, one needs to insure that it will not restrict the air required for the engine so it needs to have an area at least equal to

Square inches = CID x Maximum RPM / 20839  and a filter of equivalent size

Otherwise one can leave the filter open under the hood and direct a duct at it to give it some colder air for a lesser solution

[cudabob496]

so then the current filter is not in the idea place because it needs to be "tapped" into the cowl vent.  In reality, removing the hood seal allows hot air and fumes from under the hood to be pulled into the vent and onward into the car interior.  That is why the seal is there as well as to minimize water leakage

When constructing a duct from the cowl vent area, one needs to insure that it will not restrict the air required for the engine so it needs to have an area at least equal to

Square inches = CID x Maximum RPM / 20839  and a filter of equivalent size

Otherwise one can leave the filter open under the hood and direct a duct at it to give it some colder air for a lesser solution

OK, probably should not have used the term "ideally". Its in the general area where the mod
could be done.

[cudabob496]

I hate the hood insulation pads , traps heat & a lot of dirt right above the air cleaner , what is the benefit ?

Sound deadening?
Keep engine heat in when its below zero out?

[Strawdawg]

primarily sound deadening

[Strawdawg]

OK, probably should not have used the term "ideally". Its in the general area where the mod
could be done.

It's really not practical on a driver because the duct work needs sufficient area to supply the engine needs as per the formula (oops, wrong formula, that is for filter area)and the duct needs to be sealed to the  carb.  If it is not and is merely aimed at the air cleaner, then it will allow underhood air to be pulled backwards thru the duct and ultimately into the interior at low speed.

the other option as you probably recall is a snorkle arrangement thru the radiator support which can be a pain as well but is often easier to implement than a proper cowl induction set up---again speaking of street cars 

Be easier to spray a little alky and cool it down that way, imo

A lot of the factory offerings provided more eye appeal than actually getting enuf cold air into the engine to be really beneficial in a substantial way

[cudabob496]

The 7th air box down, which points to the cowl, could probably
easily be connected to the cowl by a flexible coupling, which ramairbox.com
may sell. Even if they did not, I could probably make something out of
inner tube material and some glue.

http://www.ramairbox.com/models.html

[blown motor]

Is your engine a 340? We removed the AC pump on my 340. Actually the mechanic that did the rebuild removed it and got a different alt bracket made. This winter I went to remove the bracket to get it chromed and when I pulled the bolts coolant came out. So yes the bolts do go into the water jacket. If you're not using the AC remove the pump. mIt really opens up the front of the engine visually.

[cudazappa]

When I removed my A/C on my Challenger I used the Summit Racing SME-2006 billet bracket.  Works trick with the stock heads.  Had to space it out a little more now that I'm running Edelbrock heads.

[TRIPLE-GREEN]

Is your engine a 340? We removed the AC pump on my 340. Actually the mechanic that did the rebuild removed it and got a different alt bracket made. This winter I went to remove the bracket to get it chromed and when I pulled the bolts coolant came out. So yes the bolts do go into the water jacket. If you're not using the AC remove the pump. mIt really opens up the front of the engine visually.

Thanks for the info. I was hoping to remove the pump but leave the bracket. but I don't think that will work either.
I will look into this SME-2006 bracket. Might be a good fix. Also does anyone know the size of the plug in the base of the radiator. I am looking to remove the plug and install a valve. I want to make it cleaner and easier to empty out the tank when I need to.

[cudazappa]

Thanks for the info. I was hoping to remove the pump but leave the bracket. but I don't think that will work either.
I will look into this SME-2006 bracket. Might be a good fix. Also does anyone know the size of the plug in the base of the radiator. I am looking to remove the plug and install a valve. I want to make it cleaner and easier to empty out the tank when I need to.

You could leave the bracket, but it will look kinda ugly there.  Always happy to spend somebody else's money!

by the way, e-booger sells factory style brackets: ebay item # 321123181921

The plug at the base of the radiator is 1/4NPT for the petcock.