Author Topic: Better E-Body Tach???  (Read 3567 times)

Offline Mopar_Mudder

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Better E-Body Tach???
« on: May 20, 2013 - 03:24:46 PM »
The rally tach in the cuda was off in RPM's so I got the new board from RT-ENG and while it does seem closer now it still seems really slow. Both in going up and down compared to the motor. Are the repoduction tachs any better? Are they all new and modern or still based on the old design? The car has been switched over to electronic ignition also, not points any more.

And on the subject of guages how about the oil and water temp? Both seem to read low and are very slow to come up, repops any better?
1971 Hemi Cuda

2005 SRT-10 Regular Cab Flame Red.   12.771 @ 109.67 <-----Time Slip --Video
Mopar: Headers, Exhaust, Ram Air, ECM

2008 3500 Mega Cab Dually, Resistal Edition




Offline Katfish

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Re: Better E-Body Tach???
« Reply #1 on: May 20, 2013 - 03:42:48 PM »
 :popcorn:

Offline Mopar_Mudder

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Re: Better E-Body Tach???
« Reply #2 on: May 21, 2013 - 10:22:38 AM »
Well I guess I know how to make my millions now. Create some repop high performace guages........ :cheers:
1971 Hemi Cuda

2005 SRT-10 Regular Cab Flame Red.   12.771 @ 109.67 <-----Time Slip --Video
Mopar: Headers, Exhaust, Ram Air, ECM

2008 3500 Mega Cab Dually, Resistal Edition

Offline Super Blue 72

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Re: Better E-Body Tach???
« Reply #3 on: May 21, 2013 - 10:28:25 AM »
Sorry, just responding.  I don't know if the aftermarket replacement ones are any better but my factory oil pressure gauge seems to read pretty well. 

My factory temp gauge isn't working so I can't attest to that.  :(
1972 Dodge Challenger Rallye 340, AT, Code TB3=Super Blue, SBD=8/17/1971.  Yes, a Rallye without the fender louvers from the factory because of the body side molding option.

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Offline 73EStroker

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Re: Better E-Body Tach???
« Reply #4 on: May 23, 2013 - 07:00:52 PM »
My tach is slow and that is because it has a large moving mass inside the gauge - hence slow to react with the new RT guts. I will qualify that however, as I bought the RTEng exerciser which swung the needle rapidly from 0-8000RPM for 48 hours straight and that helps free up the movement. It also calibrates the tach. I am going to add a square wave isolater/booster to mine to see if I can get that rapid swing back like the exerciser. The only thing that bothered me was the slow movement of the oil pressure gauge which could cause engine damage if was still reading 30 or 40 lbs but was really zero. So I made the fitting at the engine have two outlets and used the gauge in one hole and an idiot light in the other that will come on instantly below 20lbs with a red light mounted in the lower dash.
Hope this helps!
Barry (Salmon Arm)

Offline 6PakFish

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Re: Better E-Body Tach???
« Reply #5 on: May 26, 2013 - 10:53:22 PM »
I just update my tach with the rt eng board and it was slow and reading about 500 rpm off. I took it all apart agian and removed the tension screw on the tach and put a some sewing machine oil in it. I let it soak for 24hours and put it back in. It is quick and more responsive then my digital tack on my timing light.


Offline BIGSHCLUNK

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Re: Better E-Body Tach???
« Reply #6 on: May 26, 2013 - 11:31:23 PM »
Could be it just neds to be cleaned and possibly recalibrated. There wer SW tachs anyway (in 70 anyway). heres who did mine. http://speedometersolutions.com/
70 Chally R/T Convertible- Yes she's really got a HEMI, no she's not a Charger!
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Offline ToxicWolf

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Re: Better E-Body Tach???
« Reply #7 on: June 01, 2013 - 02:35:43 PM »
I use these guys for instrument work. They can rebuild just about anything.

http://www.performancecargraphics.com/Dash_Stuff/Restoration/70-74_E-body_Rallye.htm

Offline filmsurgeon

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Re: Better E-Body Tach???
« Reply #8 on: June 01, 2013 - 03:50:01 PM »
I just got my entire Rallye instrument/gauge cluster done by Redline Gauge Works in Newhall, CA.  They upgraded my restored/original Rallye tach, but they don't use RT Eng (or anyone else's) "tach board".  I won't say what exactly they do (you can call Shannon at Redline and ask him), but the results are superb!!.  I picked up my cluster yesterday, and Shannon demonstrated their bench testing/calibration process.  Every gauge and instrument performed flawlessly!  Shannon and his team are first class technicians.  I highly recommend their work.
1970 Challenger Convertible (JH27N0B); Resto-Mod; 605 HP, 412cid Small Block; Holley 750CFM Carburetor; A-833 23-spline 4-SPD; A-body 8.75 rear-end w/3.55 gears; 3" mini-tub; leaf spring relocation kit with split-leaf mono and Caltracs; American Racing AR500 Wheels, Rears = 15x10 (5.5" BS) with 315/60-15 BFG Comp T/A Drag Radials; Fronts = 15x7 (3.5" BS) with 215/70-15 BFG Radial T/A Radials.

Offline MJS73

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Re: Better E-Body Tach???
« Reply #9 on: June 01, 2013 - 05:36:55 PM »
Redline converted my ammeter (standard dash) to a voltmeter but I left the face the way it was.  It's set up so the needle is straight up at 12:00 at normal.
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Offline filmsurgeon

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Re: Better E-Body Tach???
« Reply #10 on: June 01, 2013 - 07:00:20 PM »
Redline converted my ammeter (standard dash) to a voltmeter but I left the face the way it was.  It's set up so the needle is straight up at 12:00 at normal.


This is my ammeter to voltmeter from Redline.

http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=67781.msg916382#msg916382
1970 Challenger Convertible (JH27N0B); Resto-Mod; 605 HP, 412cid Small Block; Holley 750CFM Carburetor; A-833 23-spline 4-SPD; A-body 8.75 rear-end w/3.55 gears; 3" mini-tub; leaf spring relocation kit with split-leaf mono and Caltracs; American Racing AR500 Wheels, Rears = 15x10 (5.5" BS) with 315/60-15 BFG Comp T/A Drag Radials; Fronts = 15x7 (3.5" BS) with 215/70-15 BFG Radial T/A Radials.