Do you have rear disks on your car? Need help with e-brake!

[Chryco Psycho]

 
 I guess you found the bleed screw you were missing .

[shadango]

 I guess you found the bleed screw you were missing .

Well, last thursday I got a card in the mail from summit (they sell the kits originally and was charging me $16 for one) saying they would not have the part for me until June 28th and then I should have it a week after that!

As a last ditch effort, I tried calling SSBC again and got right thru this time - told the guy what I was looking for and they sent me TWO of them FREE!  Got them Tuesday in the mail.  Go figure.

I cancelled the summit order.

So KUDOS to SSBC for supporting their products that way!  Especially considering I w3as not the original customer. VERY impressed.  I offered several times to pay for the part, shipping, whatever....the guy insisted that it was no problem.

[MTS-Challenger]

Awesome to here it all worked out 

[shadango]

Played with the wilwood prop valve a little....I started crankin git in by 1/4 turn....then a half more.....what a difference!  The went another half...so 1.25 turns in from where I was with the drums.....

What a huge difference in stopping power!!!!!   

I guess I should keep cranking in in increments until I can lock up the rears and dial it back by the last amount?

[HP_Cuda]

Correctamundo!!!!

 

[shadango]

Well, its dialed al the way in and no lockup......so....I guess at this point a smaller (?right?) master cylinder would be in order to get any more rear action......I have Dr Diffs MC with the aluminum body and two-cap plastic reservoir....

Car stops fine as-is....but you know how it is...always wondering.....LOL

Should just leave well enough alone I suppose.   

[MTS-Challenger]

Are you still using your stock master cylinder?

[shadango]

Are you still using your stock master cylinder?

I have Dr Diffs MC with the aluminum body and two-cap plastic reservoir....

[MTS-Challenger]

A little late; but look what I found!

Mopar Muscle write up on the installation of the SSBC rear disc brakes. The cool part is you can still use the tapered bearings and axle adjuster (the installation manual confirms this also).

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/suspension/mopp_0605_install_disc_brakes/viewall.html

http://www.ssbrakes.mcjr.net/attachment/63551-Instruction%20Manual


For me it's; good bye ball bearings and hello A-20 tapered bearings. 

[shadango]

A little late; but look what I found!

Mopar Muscle write up on the installation of the SSBC rear disc brakes. The cool part is you can still use the tapered bearings and axle adjuster (the installation manual confirms this also).

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/suspension/mopp_0605_install_disc_brakes/viewall.html

http://www.ssbrakes.mcjr.net/attachment/63551-Instruction%20Manual


For me it's; good bye ball bearings and hello A-20 tapered bearings. 

You had issues with the green bearings?

[ShelbyDogg]

The small contact area of ball bearings compared to a tapered-seat roller bearing is huge. For cornering and long life, I always stuck with the stock and adjustable bearings. The only reason that I changed out my 40 yr old and still good rear bearings was to replace the outer grease seal.

[MTS-Challenger]

The small contact area of ball bearings compared to a tapered-seat roller bearing is huge. For cornering and long life, I always stuck with the stock and adjustable bearings. The only reason that I changed out my 40 yr old and still good rear bearings was to replace the outer grease seal.

Agreed, nicely put

[ShelbyDogg]

I have an R&R of rear bearings in the archives.  Everyone still calls them tapered bearings but when you cut them apart, you see that they are the same diameter at both ends and the seats are tapered just like the ones in your front wheels.

I've had a bunch of front wheel drive cars that I've had to replace wheel bearings in. Those all use ball bearings.

[shadango]

Thanks, but I was really asking if mttchall was replacing them due to a PROBLEM with them.

I did a lot of research here and on other forums and I really could find no convincing reasons to not try the green bearings.

Theoretical physics does say that the tapered bearing will support the load differently than the ball bearings.

On the other hand there doesn't seem to be a lot of real world examples of the green bearings failing.

The rear wheel bearings on several cars I have owned have been roller bearings....the Sonata bearings on one side did fail, but only after 116,000 miles. I replaced both sides to be safe.  The fronts are still going strong.  I never had any other roller bearings go bad in the numerous vehicles I have had over the years.   

I put on maybe a couple thousand miles a year on the fish so I figured it was worth a try.  Its easy enough to go back with my setup...I kept the original axles with the tapered setup.....can just pop them back in if the greens fail.

Curious, what type of bearings do a Viper use?? 

I do not want to reopen the green bearings vs tapered bearings debate....LOL....just asking why he switched....   

[MTS-Challenger]

No problem here, I'm switching because I plan on doing it all - road coarse racing, drag racing and lots of 360's (on and off road). For my application ball bearings are not best suited because of the higher side loads involved.

Car came with ball bearings when I bought it so they need to go.