not always firing on #1

[72cudamaan]

Have you tried putting the timing light onto another cylinder? You may have a problem with the
light or inductive pickup at the end of the lead. Are you sure the ground terminal is making a good ground?
Stranger things have happened.

[Strawdawg]

Compression on that cylinder is 140.  it's 140 on the one next to it as well.  the other 2 on that bank I have not checked yet because I need to remove the headers to get to them.  jsut had a small amount of time to mess with it.  I am taking the day off tomorrow so hopefully I can work on it until I get it worked out.  I wonder if I should pick up a new ECU and dist rebuild kit?  just to make sure.  I ohm checked the wire and I'm not sure what scae I should have been using, but I got nearly 9 on the meter.  the other (2) plug wires I checked were the same. I checked an old wire laying around and it was around 6.7  the difference was a 7mm vs an 8mm wire.  similar length.  The reason I checked the plug in the first place was the timing light was not steady and sometimes did not strobe at all. 
John

John

As someone above suggested, connect your timing light to a few other leads and be sure they all provide a constant strobe.  If they do, then it is kinda doubtful that there is a problem with the ECU since it does not know which cylinder is #1. 

Pop the cap off and aim the rotor at #1 and check the air gap at the pick up for the lobe that opens for number 1.  Be a good time to check the distributor shaft for wobble that would result from a worn bushing but that should affect all cylinders.

As I mentioned prior, look at #1 terminal in the cap for any thing that looks different from the other terminals, or a small crack that would allow spark to bleed off to other place than all to 1.

I hate to tell you to buy parts until there is some reason to.  I have spent a lot of money on stuff I did not need in my day

[john h]

Have you tried putting the timing light onto another cylinder? You may have a problem with the
light or inductive pickup at the end of the lead. Are you sure the ground terminal is making a good ground?
Stranger things have happened.

I did check the light on some of the other wires.  It had a good strobe.  Tomorrow is another day.  hopefully I can find it with a fresh start.  I appreciate all the suggestions guys.

John

[john h]

update.  I wasted an entire day on this issue and created more issues for myself.  first I pulled the distributor and checked the gap and the pickup.  The feeler gage needed to fit was .025 I thought man this has to be it.  I loosened the screw and used the .008 gage and adjusted accordingly.  when I was done I slid the .010 feeler in and it was tight just like the book said.  I put the distributor  back and pointed the rotor the correct way and fired it up.  it started right away I was pretty close on the timing.  put the gun on and set it.  after warm up it was pooping in the exhaust.  played with the timing a bit more and unfortunately its running worse than before.  I have the 360 crate motor should I still be using the .008 gap?  is my coil bad or possibly my orange control unit?

Thanks
John

[tman]

Firing order correct?  Did a plug wire get changed around?

[john h]

I did check the wire layout to make sure it was good.  The order on the cap is different on the 5.9 l magnum motor.   It is the magnum motor without fuel injection basically the same as the 1996-2001 production truck motor.  I have it wired like a standard 73 340-360 with electronic ignition.

[Chryco Psycho]

yes use the .008 gap still

[john h]

I messed around with this again tonight.  I had a spare coil and a spare ballast.  I tried each of them 1 at a time and have really no change.  I pulled plugs and the even bank is decent and the exhaust sounds good.  the odd (left) bank just putts in the exhaust and give it a little gas it it starts popping in the exhaust.  when just idoling it seems like it's loading up.  I pull the #1 and #3 plug and they are dark, but not wet.  None of the plugs are wet.  I was starting to think I was having an issue with the needle not shutting of with the float, but I would assume I would have wet plugs.  I have the timing set about 12* before just like I always used to, but now it won't start very well.  it used to just pop right off warm or cold.  I removed all my grounds to clean them up including the voltage regulator mount.  I noticed I can't really tighten the fire wall grounds because the holes are slightly larger than the bolts.  My ground strap can be moved side to side.  How can I fix that issue?  I may pull the distributor and move my gap back out to abut .012 or so, because it seemed like it may have run a little better when it was set to .025.  The strobe on the timing light flashes really fast sometimes and slower other times.  then I will get a little hiccup in the idol and the strobe will stop for a second and start back up.  it does not do that on other wires.  I'm thinking I may just pick up basic $22 ignition control box form Napa and possibly one of their $45 aftermarket distributors just to verify mine is ok.

John

[Chryco Psycho]

You can time off cylinder 6 also , same as cylinder 1 .
 How dark are the plugs ? Maybe it is too rich .
 Difficult to shrink the holes on the firewall , you need a block on the inside & hammer the metal from the outside or install nutserts & use machine thread bolts to fix the holes . Did you pull the intake & look for a leak into the tappet valley . The ECU is a good possibility bit should not be dropping only 1 cyl  you may want to use a Rev-N-Ator ECU

[cudabob496]

I could see where an ECU could cause it, if it had the selective cylinder cutout feature as over-rev protection,
and it was faulty.

[JayBee]

I noticed I can't really tighten the fire wall grounds because the holes are slightly larger than the bolts.  My ground strap can be moved side to side.  How can I fix that issue? 

Had the same issue. I took off the plastic cowel screen and used a nut/bolt combination. I think 1/4 x 20.

[john h]

You can time off cylinder 6 also , same as cylinder 1 .
 How dark are the plugs ? Maybe it is too rich .
 Difficult to shrink the holes on the firewall , you need a block on the inside & hammer the metal from the outside or install nutserts & use machine thread bolts to fix the holes . Did you pull the intake & look for a leak into the tappet valley . The ECU is a good possibility bit should not be dropping only 1 cyl  you may want to use a Rev-N-Ator ECU

I did not pull the intake yet.  As far as it being to rich rich, I have the idol screw out only 3/4 turn on the left side.  and about 1.5 turns on the right side.  That gives me the best vacuum reading and the best idol, but that would indicate an issue all on it's own.  but that could be the spark problem too.    I will check timing on Cylinder #6.  Thanks for the tip.  I want to get the grounds tight for sure.  I will mess with that before going much further.

John

[john h]

I could see where an ECU could cause it, if it had the selective cylinder cutout feature as over-rev protection,
and it was faulty.

This is the standard Mopar Orange box.  it's not the one with the rev. limiter in it.  IT came with the crate motor 12 years ago.  It could be on it's way out I suppose.

[john h]

Had the same issue. I took off the plastic cowel screen and used a nut/bolt combination. I think 1/4 x 20.

Thanks for the tip.  I will give it a go.

John

[cudabob496]

ah yes, the grounds, make sure the engine is grounded with a big strap, or large copper wire.