440 6 pack vapor lock

[high perf mopar]

       The ShAKER just traps heat IMO, and a good underhood/rad support seals it even more.........

your right..large heat shield holding it it in to a certain degree,,but thats something that will have to be dealt with...

im not running any rubber seals or deflectors...and my shaker is not going anywhere..........................

[cudabob496]

fuel pressure is 5 1/2 lbs..headers yes,TTI chrome jobs,i know im building up alot of heat now with the new config. motor is fairly serious.and fun as all heck,

what would the full return line do for vapor lock?gas tank sending unit has provision for a 1/4",,i think,,line to it.

more power,more heat..install vapor sep?will install phenolic 1/4" insulators,,

thanks.

fuel pressure could be less than 5, if gauge inaccurate. Bump it to 7 to see what happens.

[Topcat]

good luck with that in california.

we've got 6 gas stations ethanol free in the whole state.
Al of them are all far away. 

http://pure-gas.org/

[brads70]

we've got 6 gas stations ethanol free in the whole state.
Al of them are all far away. 

http://pure-gas.org/

good luck with that in california.

 

[nqkjw]

.full flow system,,interesting,thanks for the pics,what is the cable on the passenger side of the carbs 4??nice carbs by the way..

That's my throttle cable.
It got a bit busy on the drivers side so I set up the throttle on the other side.
Remembering from the other thread I mentioned my two outboard cabs are running as my primaries.

[Rich G]

Check the fuel pump push rod. If it is worn you wont be getting the full pump shot especially at idle when its hot! When you pull it out, it is stepped on both sides and should be the same length. Happened to me and mine was 1/4 " short.

[Racer57]

My 70 Cuda has a HP 383 with shaker and Eldebrock 600cfm. I've been having a hard time getting it to start once I've driven it a few miles and have been suspecting vapor lock. Ok, so here goes my dumb question.... Where/what does the return fuel line connect too on the separator ? A tee back where the rubber line connects with the steel line ?

[cudabob496]

In the 70's my racer buddies had the gas line going through an ice bucket.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-1350/overview/

[high perf mopar]

in this engine compartment with this radiant heat ice would not last very long.

no fuel pump push rod,,,electric pump..

i do remember somewhere i read that u used the outboards as primary's.

i did read that a return style system would eliminate alot of vapor lock problems,same principal as the vapor seperator,i think i will run it as is thru this summer and over winter convert it to a return style setup.works fine until standing heat hits it after shutoff or stop and go xtreme cruising,.will have to get everything replaced from the gas tank forward    $$.fuel pump,regulator,dual lines.lets see,,,how can i tell the wife i need some overtime from her?

this weekend i will install the msd adj timing control so i can retard it going down the freeway and add the phenolic insulators under the 6-pak to try and eliminate perculation...to be continued..

[cudabob496]

in this engine compartment with this radiant heat ice would not last very long.

no fuel pump push rod,,,electric pump..

i do remember somewhere i read that u used the outboards as primary's.

i did read that a return style system would eliminate alot of vapor lock problems,same principal as the vapor seperator,i think i will run it as is thru this summer and over winter convert it to a return style setup.works fine until standing heat hits it after shutoff or stop and go xtreme cruising,.will have to get everything replaced from the gas tank forward    $$.fuel pump,regulator,dual lines.lets see,,,how can i tell the wife i need some overtime from her?

this weekend i will install the msd adj timing control so i can retard it going down the freeway and add the phenolic insulators under the 6-pak to try and eliminate perculation...to be continued..

actually, the can is probably insulated, and water, with a high specific heat, would take a lot of time to get to the temp of your engine compartment.
could also probably add dry ice to it.

[high perf mopar]

actually, the can is probably insulated, and water, with a high specific heat, would take a lot of time to get to the temp of your engine compartment.
could also probably add dry ice to it.

if the carbs are at near boiling temp due to heat transfer from the intake/heads/motor in general its a very short term fix.all good ideas..i also think that my stock style cooling system is now maxed out with the added power of this motor.barely holding on,but still working today..it will be upgraded after the summer season..

it produces so much heat that i think i should have added insulation to the fire wall,,which i have never had to do b-4,,,even with my hemi that was rated at 850+ hp.its ehtier heads or cam..im thinking mostly cam..

 

[Topcat]

If you're running a OEM 3 or 4 core Brass/Copper radiator, it actually transfers heat better than any aluminum aftermarket.

Do you run a clutch fan and is it confirmed to be working well? Is distance close like what they were like?
Header heat build up is the biggest problem in traffic.

[high perf mopar]

If you're running a OEM 3 or 4 core Brass/Copper radiator, it actually transfers heat better than any aluminum aftermarket.

Do you run a clutch fan and is it confirmed to be working well? Is distance close like what they were like?
Header heat build up is the biggest problem in traffic.

yes its a 3 core OEM style new unit,crossflow.new 7 blade clutch fan positioned inside the shroud,worked fine b-4 the cam/heads upgrade,,still does except for 2 things,,,,,,1,ping at freeway speeds,,think i have a handle on that one,,,,2.perckulation of the gas upon shutoff/low speed applications..headers r right there...water tempuratur has not exceeded 185...

[cudabob496]

If you're running a OEM 3 or 4 core Brass/Copper radiator, it actually transfers heat better than any aluminum aftermarket.

Do you run a clutch fan and is it confirmed to be working well? Is distance close like what they were like?
Header heat build up is the biggest problem in traffic.

I'd have to take exception with the statement a 3 or 4 core B/C radiator transfers heat better.  Transfers heat better does not mean it cools an engine better. The metal itself may transfer heat better, on a btu's per square inch basis, but when formed into the shape of a radiator, the aluminum will far out perform in regards to engine heat removal/cooling.  An aluminum radiator will generally keep an engine 20 degrees cooler, given all things else equal.  Thats the temp drop I saw when going from my Mopar 26 inch radiator to an inexpensive 2 core aluminum on my 496. The strength of aluminum allows much bigger cooling tubes in an aluminum radiator. Aluminum allows easier welding and fabrication. Also, a 4 core radiator restricts airflow through it self significantly.So, to imply that a brass/copper radiator will cool better than an aluminum radiator would not be correct. Don't think I've seen one performance car build in a magazine in years where they installed a new copper/brass radiator. Its always an aluminum radiator.

[cudabob496]

Optional six-pack vented fiberglass hood.

(Actually, vents I put in my hood. They let out a lot of heat, and also reduce back pressure so I rarely have to turn
on the electric fan attached to the aluminum radiator, because air travels through the radiator easier). Also, the more
you vent the engine compartment, the less pressure buildup you get at the front of the car, so you are quicker
at higher speeds. Less air drag.  Racers in the 60's and 70's use to raise the back of their hoods by 2 inches, and became about .2 to
.3 secs faster in the quarter mile.