Steering center link question

[fil]

Hi all,

I have noticed, the steering center link in my T/A Chally is very close to the oil pan (some 0,2 inch, see pics). I guess it is not normal, so is it about the center link shape? Or is there something wrong with the pitman arm (manual, standard ratio, steering)? Idler arms? Maybe the engine is too low, because of wrong engine mounts?

I do not have a clue where the problem is, and it is quite difficult to find a Challenger here in Poland to be able to compare. Where should I look for the solution? Thanks for any hint.

[72cudamaan]

It's a center link, not a track rod and it looks about normal.

[fil]

Thanks 72cudamaan, I've modified the post.

[Katfish]

Can you take some pics from further back for reference?
Looks too close to me.

Could be a number of things, center link on backwards, wrong oil pan, bad / incorrect motor mounts .......................................

For what its worth my center link (340) is parallel with the drain plug, yours looks to be at least 2" higher?

[Chryco Psycho]

Often you can shim the idler arm down a little by moving washers from below to the top
 other wise it may be the wrong oil pan , the mounts look OK in the pix

[fil]

Thanks guys. As suggested, I've taken some additional pics, to give more general image of the situation, I hope this helps. What I have noticed, is that the idler arm looks unworn, like it was recently replaced by previous owner. The pitman arm has correct 2835878 casting number, the oil pan has the 294 number (?). The center link TOUCHES the oil pan 

If you have any idea on what is wrong, please let me know.

[brads70]

What kind of condition is the tranny mount in? If it has sagged you will loose some clearance?  Same with motor mounts? Does the pitman arm say fast ratio on it?

[fil]

Brads70: the tranny mount looks pretty OK to me, no sagging. Today I've noticed the right engine mount is torn and should be replaced, but can it raise the engine enough to make a sufficient clearance between the center link and the oil pan? No fast ratio casting on the pitman arm.

[brads70]

If it were mine I would start with replacing all the mounts. tranny and engine.  It doesn't have the original fast ratio steering arms but they are available new if you wish?  I'm not sure how the fast ratio arms effect the oil pan clearance?
http://www.firmfeel.com/fastrati_e.htm

[fil]

Thanks for the hint with firmfeel, it may be a good clue. Talking about mounts: does it make sense to buy the ClassicIndustries POLYURETHANE LOC ENGINE MOUNTS http://www.classicindustries.com/mopar/parts/mn1149.html#.UYy0tD6Qty0? They are pretty expensive comparing to those available on eBay 

[brads70]

Thanks for the hint with firmfeel, it may be a good clue. Talking about mounts: does it make sense to buy the ClassicIndustries POLYURETHANE LOC ENGINE MOUNTS http://www.classicindustries.com/mopar/parts/mn1149.html#.UYy0tD6Qty0? They are pretty expensive comparing to those available on eBay 

Cheaper here.... This is what I used and the torque strap as well.
http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsType/PolyLoc.html
http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsType/TorqueStraps.html#head4
The problem with regular parts store engine mounts is the quality is not what it used to be they are made offshore now.
The poly locs are cheap insurance IMO?

I don't know where your at , but they always have a display at Carlisle and cheaper still with a show special?

[HP2]

Something about the oil pan looks odd to me. I beleive you should have a 402 stamping oil pan, but some of the more knowledgeable members may be able to verify. The 402 does have a flatter, shallower surface than the 294.

Additionally, the steering box can be shimmed to lower the location where it meets the centerlink and as a result, lower the centerlink slightly as well. Thats pretty easy to do. Lowering the idler arm is not as easy as you have to remove the arm, elongate the mounting hole to drop the mounting position, then weld a washer in place to set the new location. I'd see if what CP suggested is possible first, see if spacer washers are installed upside down on the idler mount.

[Chryco Psycho]

I have the Poly lock mounts in my car but I am not convinced it was the best choice for the $$ as other here asay they still fail , the regular mount & torque link of some sort seems better , I just ran a steel strap from the engine mount across to the mount center pin , unbreakable & invisable .
 You could use the Poly trans mount though .
It looks like you have a C body oilpan on the engine   you could dimple it or replace it with the baffled 402 pan

[dodj]

I used these mounts from Mancini.
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/maheduenmo.html

Happy so far. 

[fil]

Thank you guys for your great help. RESPECT.     Now I know how to handle with the mess in my car .    Will let you know after I am finished.