Clock is unbelievable!

[4Cruizn]

So I went for a ride in the hardtop the other day and was looking at the dash and thought to myself that I would like to get the clock converted so that it actually works as it has not moved in probably 30 years.  I went to drive the car yesterday to go to my fathers house for Fathers day and looked down and the clock was working!  OMG!   I set it to the right time which was difficult to do as it also has not been moved for about 30 years!  WTF??  I sat there in disbelief??  Still would like to get it converted . . . who does this?  can I do it myself? 

All help is always appreciated! 

4C

[ToxicWolf]

These guys are converting my 1970 challenger clock to quartz right now. Probably won't get it back for a couple more weeks. I'm having them doing some more work as well.

http://www.performancecargraphics.com/Dash_Stuff/Restoration/70-74_E-body_Rallye.htm

[filmsurgeon]

Redline Gauge Works in Newhall, CA.  They just did my entire Rallye cluster (which included the quartz movement upgrade to the clock).  They'll also repaint the needle while they're at it.  They're a great bunch of guys, and do outstanding work.

[JayBee]

I had rt-eng (Greg Garner) do mine at the Nat's one year. The deal was, the first 3 to buy the conversion kit got free installation. I understand that it can be done yourself.

[Jamiez]

The quartz ones lose the tick tock sound though right?

[ToxicWolf]

The quartz does a continuous sweep ... no tick tock

[dodj]

The R 3035 kit is available on ebay for about $75-85.

[erat340]

If you're real careful you can remove it , clean the movement ,very lightly oil (sewing mach oil),(dont let oil wick onto the face), lightly file the electrical contacts, and hope it works. Mine has been for over 3 years, neatest thing is the tick,tick,tick, then every 2 1/2 minutes, THUNK,ZIP,rewind.

[spamtank]

If you're real careful you can remove it , clean the movement ,very lightly oil (sewing mach oil),(dont let oil wick onto the face), lightly file the electrical contacts, and hope it works. Mine has been for over 3 years, neatest thing is the tick,tick,tick, then every 2 1/2 minutes, THUNK,ZIP,rewind.

Tried filing the contacts on mine, but it was just too erroded away.  I'm looking to find some appropriate material some day and machine new contacts. 

For the time being, I bought the quartz movement.  Most people don't realize the difference.  They are just amazed that a 40 year old clock is moving....

[4Cruizn]

So how hard is it to convert the clock your self?  filmsurgeon . . . how much did it cost to complete the entire rallye cluster?   

[filmsurgeon]

So how hard is it to convert the clock your self?  filmsurgeon . . . how much did it cost to complete the entire rallye cluster?   

Everything they did (with pricing) is as follows:

** Speedometer "repair" = $180.  This is a recommendation from Redline.  I explained to them that the speedo looks like it's brand new.  They said it's best to take it apart, inspect, re-lube and calibrate.

** Tach Conversion to solid state = $200.  They don't use RTE or PDD boards, or MSD adapters.  They have their own conversion approach.  I'd rather have it done by professionals, rather than trying to do it myself.  I have read where others have done this fairly easily using the above mentioned conversion options, but I feel it's best to leave this to those who have done it for years.

** Solid State Voltage Limiter = $43.

** Calibrate: Fuel, Oil, Temp Gauges = $40 (1/2 hour labor).

** Quartz Clock Conversion = $80 (1 hour labor).  They used the conversion kit I bought several years ago (same as the one they use), and just charged me labor for install.

** Amp to Volt Meter Conversion = $160.  This should be done considering the power hungry non-stock add-ons (i.e. audio system, etc.).  Besides, it's just simply a safer alternative.

** Assembly and Detail = $80 (1 hour labor).  This includes polishing the clear plastic gauge/instrument cluster lens.

** All needles were repainted (except for the Tach, as it was a fully restored original instrument that I bought a few years ago)

** I ended up having to buy a housing from them because the previous owner had enlarged the Tach hole for an Autometer Tach (I didn't even notice this when I took the Autometer Tach out), and the original tach would't work in the enlarged hole.  Redline had some extras, and the cost was VERY reasonable.  They bead blast the housings and the backside of the instruments to look new.

Total cost out the door = $820.00  (However, my rates were quoted to me at the end of Feb, before they had to increase pricing by 10% due to typical factors.  So add an additional $80.00 for today's rates)

For more info on my Rallye cluster and switch panel restoration, see the following post that I started at the beginning of March.  I'll be adding a bit more after I do the new woodgrain faceplate on the cluster bezel.

http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=91034

[spamtank]

I think I paid about $90 for the rebuild kit.  It came with a few gears, the quartz movement, and replacement rivets.

I used a dremel tool to grind off the back of the rivets.  Wasn't too hard to remove and replace the movement. 

The most difficult part was getting the new rivets peened over without scuffing or burnishing the flat black paint.

[4Cruizn]

I think I paid about $90 for the rebuild kit.  It came with a few gears, the quartz movement, and replacement rivets.

I used a dremel tool to grind off the back of the rivets.  Wasn't too hard to remove and replace the movement. 

The most difficult part was getting the new rivets peened over without scuffing or burnishing the flat black paint.

Good to know!   

[dodj]

The most difficult part was getting the new rivets peened over without scuffing or burnishing the flat black paint.

I was thinking of using crazy glue or epoxy to hold the rivets and clock face cuz I couldn't see a safe way to peen over the new rivets. Otherwise, easy.

[BIGSHCLUNK]

One of the reasons I had redline do mine... I'm just not that steady anymore.