Author Topic: Anyone using one of these? Seems like a good idea? Sacrificial Zinc Anode  (Read 1705 times)

Offline cudabob496

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72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000




Offline anlauto

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Offline johns cuda shop

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They are starting to be popular with hot rodders now that most have aluminum radiators ,engine blocks ect, They are a good idea , anything you can do to keep corrosion down in your cooling system well worth it IMO
71 Cuda Gen III Aluminum 426 Hemi T56 6 speed 4.10 8.75 Modified & Lowered RMS coilover suspension Wilwood discs

Offline brads70

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Seems like a good idea, expensive though for what you get? I have one in the hot water tank in my travel trailer and its 1.2" NPT by about 10" long and 3/4" diameter and it's only about 10 bucks.
Brad
1970 Challenger 451stroker/4L60 auto OD
Barrie,Ontario,Canada
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Offline Strawdawg

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Good coolant, or an additive to keep the ph right, plus good grounds and there should not be a problem.  This is more a bandaid than a cure

Offline cudabob496

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wish I could just drop one in my radiator, but I think it has to be bolted in, so the corrosion current will be completed.
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline 7212Mopar

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Engine cooling is a closed system with no raw makeup. I don't think it is necessary. Coolant already has corrosion inhibitor.
1973 Challenger Rallye, AT with 1971 340
2012 Challenger SRT8 392 YJ,  6 spd

Offline cudabob496

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Engine cooling is a closed system with no raw makeup. I don't think it is necessary. Coolant already has corrosion inhibitor.

Not sure that the coolant corrosion inhibitor is always adequate for all corrosion mechanisms the engine might experience,
especially with all the newer materials.
And of course, the level of corrosion inhibitor might vary, depending on strength of anit-freeze you have in your car.
This zinc may be a good insurance policy.
I just went down to an 80wtr/20 mix to help my engine run cooler.
« Last Edit: June 26, 2013 - 06:09:18 PM by cudabob496 »
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline Strawdawg

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If you ever pass thru west Texas, I can show you an aluminum radiator that is about 15 years old that has straight water plus and additive run at least six months a year for more than ten years of the 15 and it has no corrosion.  I continue to think this is a "problem" that was created to justify a magic part instead of promoting good maintenance.  :)

At this point in time, I suspect I potentially have more problem with the fin bonding on the tubes than I do any interior problems.  People often don't realize that the quality of the bond between the fin and tube deteriorate with time and the cooling efficiency of the radiator suffers as a result.

Offline cudabob496

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If you ever pass thru west Texas, I can show you an aluminum radiator that is about 15 years old that has straight water plus and additive run at least six months a year for more than ten years of the 15 and it has no corrosion.  I continue to think this is a "problem" that was created to justify a magic part instead of promoting good maintenance.  :)

At this point in time, I suspect I potentially have more problem with the fin bonding on the tubes than I do any interior problems.  People often don't realize that the quality of the bond between the fin and tube deteriorate with time and the cooling efficiency of the radiator suffers as a result.

But the corrosion can be occurring at other locations other than the radiator. Aluminum components like heads can perhaps result
in block corrosion, due to dissimilar metals.  Also, the quality of engine grounds might affect corrosion rates. If you install this zinc anode,
and in a few years it is corroded, then that shows its working. We use to strap large zinc blocks on the hull of our submarine, which was continually
generating a lot of electricity, similar to a car alternator.
« Last Edit: June 26, 2013 - 07:21:28 PM by cudabob496 »
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline Strawdawg

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good grounds and maintaining the correct ph in  the coolant whether water or antifreeze will prevent electrolysis.  Many, Many modern cars have aluminum heads, blocks, and/or radiators and don't have a problem.  It goes into the same category as Fitch fuel Catalyzers, air craft sparkplugs, etc.  Science triumphs over voodoo anyday :D

Offline cudabob496

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I suppose one of these would bolt into my water pump housing. I'm not using my heater hoses.
I know that when I tried to drain my block once, there was a lot of rust particles blocking the drainage, until I jammed
a screw driver up there.

http://www.zincwarehouse.com/engine-zincs.html
« Last Edit: June 27, 2013 - 03:52:33 AM by cudabob496 »
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline 06Daytona

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You  can go to a marina or boat sales place and pick up a zinc bar and just screw it onto the car somewhere. Zinc won't work to stop corrosion on aluminum because aluminum will sacrifice before zinc. Big fishing boats with steel hulls use them to keep the rust down on the hull and they get replaced every year.
1972 Cuda 340 4 barrel 4 speed that looks like a 71
2006 Dodge Charger R/T Daytona
2005 Dodge Ram 2500 Diesel 4X4
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1972 Dodge Charger 318 auto
1970 Challenger 440/727 auto
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