Hughes Whiplash cam ? 383

Author Topic: Hughes Whiplash cam ? 383  (Read 11136 times)

Offline 72cudamaan

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Re: Hughes Whiplash cam ? 383
« Reply #15 on: July 06, 2013 - 09:10:59 AM »
my power valve is a 6.5.  What do I need to change?

(since I'm under 500 cubic inches[496], I'll stick with the 850!):)
You can't change a power valve until you know what your vacuum is.
If I cant fix it, it's broke
 
Andy  (phukker whither)




Offline Strawdawg

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Re: Hughes Whiplash cam ? 383
« Reply #16 on: July 06, 2013 - 09:24:59 AM »
my power valve is a 6.5.  What do I need to change?

(since I'm under 500 cubic inches[496], I'll stick with the 850!):)

I did not say change your power valve.  I said dial in your power valve circuit.  :)

Remember those links we gave you on you to set up a double pumper?  There were pics there showing how to increase the flow thru the pv circuit.  That allows you to keep your jets smaller and closer in size front to rear.   Makes it easier to maintain the desired A/F throughout the band which allows you to optimize hp under the entire curve and not just at a narrow portion.

The old double pumpers were made for wide open throttle and they did not give much consideration to cars being driven on the street.  The new models are much easier to fine tune to street cars

Offline cudabob496

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Re: Hughes Whiplash cam ? 383
« Reply #17 on: July 06, 2013 - 08:43:03 PM »
You can't change a power valve until you know what your vacuum is.

In gear, 10 to 12 inch vac.
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline cudabob496

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Re: Hughes Whiplash cam ? 383
« Reply #18 on: July 06, 2013 - 08:50:05 PM »
Reason I chimed in on this one is that I once thought installing a more aggressive cam
in an otherwise stock engine would increase power. I was told that it would be a waste of
time if I did not open up the heads, but this was 20 years ago. Maybe cam technology
has changed that.
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline hemiken

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Re: Hughes Whiplash cam ? 383
« Reply #19 on: July 06, 2013 - 10:14:41 PM »
I don't have a clue what "110-114 cl" means. Any chance you could make it really easy for me and tell me what would be a good sounding cam for a 4-speed 383 and the proper carb for it ?
I have a 600 Eldebrock presently and have been planning to changing to a bigger one, but didn't want to buy one until I knew what cam I was getting.

I would suggest this as the cam you would be best to use for what you are trying to acheive  :2thumbs:

HUG HEH1523BL3

HYDRAULIC CAMSHAFT 112º LSA+3

FLAT TAPPET HYDRAULIC / THREE BOLT TIMING GEAR

$199.00

Flat Tappet Hydraulic / Three Bolt Timing Gear. Light car, mild street: medium to heavy towing or RV. Dual exhaust or headers, 4 bbl carb. Street gearing 3.00 to 3.55:1. 150psi suggested cylinder pressure. Good idle, resto/cruiser. Hot daily driver, mileage OK.

 Camshaft Technical Details
Intake Valve Lift 1.5
Exhaust Valve Lift 1.5    .470"
.506"
Intake Valve Lift 1.6
Exhaust Valve Lift 1.6    .501"
.539"
Intake Duration at .050"
Exhaust Duration at .050"    215°
223°
Lobe Separation Angle    112º
Intake Opening at .050"
Exhaust Opening at .050"    -1.5° BTC
46.5° BBC
Intake Closing at .050"
Exhaust Closing at .050"    36.5° ABC
-3.5° ATC
Min. Suggested Cylinder PSI    155
Sweet Spot RPM    1200 - 4800

 Power Ranges: These are the "sweet spot" in the power range. Generally we suggest shifting at 300-500 RPM above the "sweet spot" for the best ET’s.

Spring Warning: Our camshafts are not comparable to other manufacturers and require special valve spring pressures to operate and live satisfactorily. ONLY USE springs meeting the specifications listed here or on the provided cam cards. Valve spring pressures and installed heights are supplied with each camshaft.

Caution: Minimum piston-to-valve clearance is .060" intake and .100" exhaust. If your clearance is not adequate, we have tooling to cut deeper valve reliefs. Check our tooling section or call us. Maximum lift with stock guide height is 0.450", more lift requires shortening the valve guides.
1970 Barracuda   (O^--^===|===^--^O)
1971 Barracuda   (O O {]{]{]|[}[}[} O O)
1970 Challenger  (O O [======R/T=] O O)
1971 Challenger  (O O ===== ===== O O)
I pay homage to the best Mopars ever built.

Offline cudabob496

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Re: Hughes Whiplash cam ? 383
« Reply #20 on: July 06, 2013 - 10:31:11 PM »
I don't have a clue what "110-114 cl" means. Any chance you could make it really easy for me and tell me what would be a good sounding cam for a 4-speed 383 and the proper carb for it ?
I have a 600 Eldebrock presently and have been planning to changing to a bigger one, but didn't want to buy one until I knew what cam I was getting.


http://www.auto-ware.com/combust_bytes/camspecs.html
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline Strawdawg

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Re: Hughes Whiplash cam ? 383
« Reply #21 on: July 07, 2013 - 12:48:06 AM »
Reason I chimed in on this one is that I once thought installing a more aggressive cam
in an otherwise stock engine would increase power. I was told that it would be a waste of
time if I did not open up the heads, but this was 20 years ago. Maybe cam technology
has changed that.

Did you read the Hughes cam description?  It is a low rpm cam...made for sound...not high performance

Offline cudabob496

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Re: Hughes Whiplash cam ? 383
« Reply #22 on: July 07, 2013 - 12:59:29 AM »
Did you read the Hughes cam description?  It is a low rpm cam...made for sound...not high performance

OK, but first time I heard of a cam that was made for sound, and not power.
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline Strawdawg

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Re: Hughes Whiplash cam ? 383
« Reply #23 on: July 07, 2013 - 09:00:31 AM »
Comp Cams Thumpr
« Last Edit: July 07, 2013 - 09:33:51 AM by Strawdawg »

Offline RzeroB

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Re: Hughes Whiplash cam ? 383
« Reply #24 on: July 07, 2013 - 08:40:52 PM »
I'm not looking for a lot more power(time for me to calm down) as much as I'm wanting the sound at idle.


Well if its the sound of a high overlap lumpy cam that you want why not take a look at Comp Cams "Thumpr" cams?? "Sounds" like they have just what you are looking for... http://www.compcams.com/thumpr/
Cheers!
Tom
St Louis, MO

Former owner of 16 classic Mopars. "It is better to have owned (Mopars) and lost then to have never owned at all" (apologies to Alfred Lord Tennyson)

Offline cudabob496

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Re: Hughes Whiplash cam ? 383
« Reply #25 on: July 07, 2013 - 09:10:59 PM »
Comp Cams Thumpr

OK, similar in the concept to the open large mufflers you can put on a Honda Civic. Makes it
sound like a big vacuum cleaner, but no real power increase! :)
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline Racer57

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Re: Hughes Whiplash cam ? 383
« Reply #26 on: July 07, 2013 - 10:19:44 PM »
I'm wanting a cam for my car (383 4-speed) that has a really nice sound to it. What I'm thinking of is what we use to call a 3/4 cam back in the day, yet can be used with factory exhaust manifolds.

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Hughes Whiplash cam ? 383
« Reply #27 on: July 07, 2013 - 10:21:02 PM »
from a power point of view you need a 112-114 * centerline cam , headers create a lot of scavenging to pull out the exhaust manifolds do not accomplish this so the overlap needs to be less .... just so you know , obviously you are more concerned with sound over power or drivability .

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t

Offline Racer57

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Re: Hughes Whiplash cam ? 383
« Reply #28 on: July 11, 2013 - 08:40:10 AM »
from a power point of view you need a 112-114 * centerline cam , headers create a lot of scavenging to pull out the exhaust manifolds do not accomplish this so the overlap needs to be less .... just so you know , obviously you are more concerned with sound over power or drivability .

Obviously this is one of those "you can't get something for nothing" type of deals. I want sound and drivability. :D

Sorry for what I'm sure appears to be pretty dumb questions for you guys. In the 70's-80's I could read a cam profile with the best of you. But its been that long since I did it and it obviously shows.

Offline Strawdawg

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Re: Hughes Whiplash cam ? 383
« Reply #29 on: July 11, 2013 - 01:57:53 PM »
Then you know enough to know there is no free lunch.  To get drivability out of a big cam you have to change the converter or change the rear gears...and maybe both.

This cam, and the CC Thumpr, are made to give the sound without increasing the power band on the top end very much.  So it is a compromise cam.  They change the lobe center to give the overlap that helps with the sound and they change the relationship of the lobes to try to keep making the power down low.  A compromise.

I have not seen the Hughes tested in a magazine, but the Thumprs seem to do a pretty good job of achieving the goal without increasing the need for more compression, more converter, gear, whatever :)

If it makes you feel better, I was a lot smarter in the '60's and '70's than I am now.  For some reason, I don't break as much stuff now, tho  :D