How to install sound deadener?

[shoooter]

I've started installing my sound deadener on the cuda and I have a few questions.

Do you over lap the pieces or just but them up edge to edge?

When doing the roof and other areas that have braces or ribs do you cover those? I have seen them left out and also done.

Do you take off brackets and put sound deadener under them or just go around?

Do you put the floor plugs in before or cut the holes out and puts them in after so they stay functional?

When doing the doors do you do the part that would be under the door panel or do the outside of the door , so on the back side of the outer skin?

When doing the area where the sail panels go do you cover it all or cut out those holes? 

Thanks everyone I know you will get me the right answers

[Jamiez]

If you are talking sticky stuff like dynamat, the method they recommend is butting them together and then using some foil tape to cover the seams

[shoooter]

If you are talking sticky stuff like dynamat, the method they recommend is butting them together and then using some foil tape to cover the seams

yes that's what I'm using. Any idea about the other stuff?

[Katfish]

Curious too....................

[usraptr]

  I'll be doing mine in the near future. Curious also.

[moparman82]

I think it really comes down to how quit u want it, if ur tryin to get as close to a new car as possible, u gotta go over body plugs, braces, everything.  I went around the roof braces, but went over body plugs, I went around mounted brackets, and I covered all the openings in the door behind the panel not on the skin.  10x quiter that before, Mercedes quiet though lol

[Katfish]

Any suggestions for sound deadener to use behind the door panel on the metal portion inside the car, directly under door panel?

How thick is it, any issues with getting the door panel back on and fitting nice?

[Jamiez]

A lot of it depends on what you are trying to do.  Dynamat style is a combination of sound deadening/heat shield.  As such, to get the max heat protection you want to cover everything and cover all the seams to insulate.  The rubbery type systems also tend to take the "tinny" or "bell" sound out of the car. They also make stuff that is more like a carpet backer which you can place under the carpet...good for sound, nothing for heat.

 If all you want is sound deadening, then you can apply a few strips of the rubber stuff in various places to kill the tinny sound and then get the carpet backer stuff.  The carpet stuff is also a lot easier to move and can lay over the body plugs.

There are also spray on products that are good for both thermal and noise but you need to "paint" the inside of the car with it so that might not be the route you want to take.

In my own car I put in Dynamat.  I only did the floors because that was all I was willing to take out (head liner was fine).  I taped the seams and cut around all the body plugs.  It made a decent difference in both heat and sound.

[shoooter]

I'm using it to tighten up the car , take minor noise out and for a heat shield. The sound deadener I'm using is fatmax I got it on eBay for a good deal. I'm happy with it.

So if you were to do one Parton the door would it be the inside or outside? I would think the inside right under where the panel goes instead of the vapor barrier. It would make it quiter inside.

I'm taking a guess and I'm going to cover all the holes and not cut them out as it will let sound through.

Brackets , I'm going to take those off too, still not sure about covering the ribs in th roof or not

[ToxicWolf]

I'm working on mine now. Just getting up to the doors.

[Katfish]

I'm looking at this, is this what you guys have used?
Is it really only 1/16" thick?
For some reason I was thinking it was 1/2' or more?

Do you need the roller to install?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00020CB2S/?tag=googhydr-20&hvadid=3866784561&hvpos=1t2&hvexid=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=465109930775738581&hvpone=130.98&hvptwo=51&hvqmt=b&hvdev=c&ref=pd_sl_62a8tob7zu_b

[Jamiez]

That's the kit I used.  It took 2 of them and like 4 rolls of the tape to do the floor.  Probably need at least another box for the doors, and maybe 2 for the roof.

[Katfish]

Ouch that would be pretty expensive.  The FatMat (sp?) does seem much more reasonable on price, 50 sqft for $100 vs $135 for only 35 sqft of the Dynomat.
Plus the Fatmat is 0.080" thick vs only 0.062 for the dynomat

Another question, do you need to heat the material or the metal it attaches to?

Sorry to the OP for jumping in like this.

[Jamiez]

I installed mine in the winter, when the garage was like 40 degrees.  I found I had to bring the dynamat into the house for a few hours to get it warm and flexible.  If it's 55 or warmer you should have no problem.  The roller does a good job of getting it seated and "stuck" to the body.

[shoooter]

Ouch that would be pretty expensive.  The FatMat (sp?) does seem much more reasonable on price, 50 sqft for $100 vs $135 for only 35 sqft of the Dynomat.
Plus the Fatmat is 0.080" thick vs only 0.062 for the dynomat

Another question, do you need to heat the material or the metal it attaches to?

Sorry to the OP for jumping in like this.

I got 100' for $148 of the fatmat. I'm using a heat gun and the supplied roller, also found a piece of 1" toe nose off my stairs works great for the indents.  Make sure to clean the floor with something first, like rubbing alcohol