Alignment adventures

[challengerjeff]

I wanted to start this thread to aid anybody else who might have the same questions/issues I had and to create a spot for any future questions I may have.  I have a 1973 Challenger and I recently got new wheels that I put on the same tires (225/60/R15 in the front, 255/60/R15 in the rear).  The rear wheels were the same width and backspacing, 15x8 - 4.5" backspacing but the fronts went from 15x8 4.5" backspacing to 15x7 4.25" backspacing.  I didn't take the Challenger into the shop but instead brought the new tires and wheels to them (Challenger wouldn't start so I couldn't bring it in, turns out a tune-up fixed her right up  ).

After driving it a short distance I noticed the front seemed raised up and the tires squealed on every little turn over 30 mph.  Turns out the camber was way to positive, I'm guessing somewhere around 1.5 degrees.  Then I searched through the forum for similar posts and learned how to adjust caster/camber.  I turned the front eccentric camber bolt all the way out and the rear one all the way in on both sides.  After another short test drive and visual estimate I noticed not much had changed.   

I decided to take a step back since I really should have checked the ride height first (ball joints and bushings seem fine).  I took the first measurement from the lower ball joint housing and got around 9 inches.  I took the second measurement from the torsion bar adjusting blade and got 12 inches.  3 inches!!  That's way above the 1 1/8 spec!!  Four and a half turns on each torsion bar adjuster brought it back into spec and now it the camber is much closer to correct.  I was surprised the new wheels had that kind of effect but it may have been a little off with the old wheels.

I don't have a before pic, but here is a current pic from the front:




I haven't gotten it exactly dialed in but I'm very close, still getting a little squealing on right-hand turns, but a little more adjusting to the driver side should get it.  I'm hoping I can get the camber negative .5 to .75 degrees on each side and then I'll set the toe-in to 1/16.

Summary of what I learned from my research and tinkering are: make sure parts are not worn, set ride height, set caster to max positive, set camber, then set toe-in.

[Giveitawack]

After I put the 20" Torq Thrust II I had similar problems. I went with Moog offset upper control arm bushings. It took care of the crazy angles. Much better handling, tire wear etc.

[HP2]

Changing wheels should not alter alignment specs at all. Was something else done at the same time?

[challengerjeff]

I didn't think it would change much but I did not change anything else.  I had the car on jack stands for a couple days while replacing the wheels.      Whatever happened it seems to be better now that I adjusted it.  Hopefully it's not a sign of something else wrong.

[HP2]

My concern would be that with everything hanging in the air for a couple of days, then not settling back into its previous position without adjustments, that some of the control arm bushings somewhere may have bound up or torn.

You do have your alignment sequence correct. I'd just keep an eye on things to see if you notice any unusual wear or changes in settings over time.

[challengerjeff]

So far I haven't noticed any issues but I'm going to install the Moog problem solver kit for now so I can adjust the camber bolts some more.  Then, this winter I will go through the suspension and upgrade/replace some things.

[Rich G]

You changed the height, camber and caster. Have you checked the toe? That should be the last adjustment.

[challengerjeff]

Yes, it was within spec as best as I could measure.  I wasn't able to get the camber in the negative range on the driver side during my initial adjustments, it was right around 0 degrees.

[challengerjeff]

I finally got to re-installing my UCAs with the moog offset bushings and I checked ride height, set max caster, made minor camber adjustments, and set toe-in.  Went for a drive and now there are no tire squeals.   

However, my steering wheel isn't lined up straight anymore, does that mean I adjusted toe on one side more than the other?  I made sure it was straight before adjusting toe but I might have bumped it during the change.  I don't care that much though.

I also realized I don't have a front sway bar (or rear either).  How do the factory style sway bars mount?  Will I need to weld new mounts to my LCAs for front and to the frame for rear?

[Super Blue 72]

Changing wheels should not alter alignment specs at all.

That's what I was wondering... 

However, my steering wheel isn't lined up straight anymore, does that mean I adjusted toe on one side more than the other?  I made sure it was straight before adjusting toe but I might have bumped it during the change.  I don't care that much though.

I also realized I don't have a front sway bar (or rear either).  How do the factory style sway bars mount?  Will I need to weld new mounts to my LCAs for front and to the frame for rear?

I haven't done an alignment myself for years but did you use the tool to lock the steering wheel straight? 

I didn't realize there were cars that came through without front or rear sway bars?   I thought all came through with at least the front? 

[FY1Cuda]

to get the steering wheel straight, you're going to have to shorten one tie rod and lengthen the other the same amount.  As for the front sway bar, your LCA needs the hole where the end link attaches.  It should be on the top, forward side of the LCA.  After that, it is pretty easy to get an after-market swaybar.  For the rear, the original OEM one is hard to find complete, but Firm Feel can set you up.
http://www.firmfeel.com/swaybars_e.htm

[challengerjeff]

I didn't lock the steering wheel just straightened it beforehand.

I guess some of the 318 2-barrel cars didn't come with sway bars.  I've seen Firm Feel's stuff and plan on getting some of it this winter.

Here's a picture of the passenger side LCA:




I don't seem to have the mount for a sway bar.

[Super Blue 72]

Very interesting and nice pics guys, thanks!    Didn't know some came without sway bars and the LCA is different!

[challengerjeff]

I guess I will weld a new bracket on when I have the LCAs out.  I want to box them in with a plate on the bottom as well.

[Chryco Psycho]

I didn't plate mine , I took A piece of  3/4"or 1" flat bar & dropped it into the groove in the arm & welded it in works just a as well .