What do you guys think of this engine build ??

['Cuda Hunter]

This is an engine I just received.
These are the specs.
I would like to know what some of you think about this build.
Opinions ??



Foundation:

Block- 1970 383 Hp block  early superbee mill  Bored .030" oversize, never decked, never line honed or bored (always measured straight and square)

Heads- #346 castings, magnaflux checked and hardened exhaust seats installed,  Bronze valve guide inserts and positive oil seals installed  83 CC volume

Crankshaft- Cast crankshaft (1972 44 Cid) Sourced through Big A auto parts, Machined .010", .010" u/s

connecting rods- Eagle specialty products  H-beam Rods   P/n cr36358c3d      6.358"  c-c length

pistons- Ross Racing Pistons Custom Forgings    723 Grams, Double Spirolox, 1.094" Pin ,  10.75:1 CR  w/.040" gasket    Job Card# 67393

Camshaft-  Engle Racing cams custom grind  #K7/K8 HYD  235* I / 250* E   Duration @ .050" lift ,  Gross running duration 282*/299* , Gross valve lift w/ 1.5:1 ratio  .516" I/ .555" E
                 108* love center angle   P/N 0023-h

Timing chain set- cloyes tru-roller double roller set


Details:

Valvetrain- Crane cams Hi Intensity lifters
                Sig Erson Cams 3/8" Cup/ball pushrods sig917342
                mancini racing stainless intake and exhaust valves
                mancini racing valve spring retainers & locks
                Engle racing cams single valve springs #835
                Iskenderian  racing parts (?)  1.5:1 ratio cast iron rocker arms, max wedge style, modified with bushings to replace spacer springs

Gaskets- Fel-pro permatorque  .040" compressed thickness head gasket, M396007 valley pan, fpp 1214 intake gasket, fpp 1808  oil pan gasket

Oiling-  High volume oil pump (melling), Factory baffled 6-qt pan, Factory windage tray, remote oil filter(summit G4985) , oil cooler (summit G4974), Oil accumulator(moroso #23900 3 qt)

Intake- Mopar M1 P4529462, Currently Holley 0-3310 750 cfm caruretor, K&N 4"x14" air filter
 
Exhaust- Factory 1970 HP manifolds with 2 1/4" exhaust pipes, H-pipe, Warlock 50551 flt bypass mufflers

Miscellaneous- Moroso solid engine mounts, B&M sfi certified flexplate,  unidentified aluminum valve covers, factory vibration damper, 
                     ARP head bolts, crank bolts, rod bolts,   Mopar performance elctronic ignition

[Chryco Psycho]

Why a cast crank ? 44?
 You could use a 440 crank steel turned down to stock 383 size journals & build a 438 stroker using 6.7" con rods
 Use Only Johnson lifters .
 Where do you want the powerband , that cam is pretty big ?

[brads70]

I had those "Crane cams Hi Intensity lifters" in my BB Buick engine for about a few days, then they looked pretty "intense"  in the garbage can. They kept collapsing making the engine sound like a cement mixer. I could actually collapse them by pushing on the rocker arms with my hand.   I hope you have a better experience with them 

['Cuda Hunter]

why a cast crank ? 44?
 you coul dusea 440 crank steel turned down to stock 383 size journals & build a 438 stroker using 6.7" con rods
 Use Only Johnson lifters .
 where do you want the powerband , that one is pretty big ?

This is how the engine is set up now.

Spun a bearing.  He believes because of rod bolt stretch.....

So, really I was hoping to get advice on what to change when I have it open.

I'm not on a big budget here.  Workin man blues ya know.

Of course I don't really know squat until I tear the motor apart.  Trying to get a day off to go pick it up.

['Cuda Hunter]

I had those "Crane cams Hi Intensity lifters" in my BB Buick engine for about a few days, then they looked pretty "intense"  in the garbage can. They kept collapsing making the engine sound like a cement mixer. I could actually collapse them by pushing on the rocker arms with my hand.   I hope you have a better experience with them 

The motor has about 1100 miles on it since he built it last.
Apparently the same thing happened last time.   Spun bearing. Didn't hurt the crank. 

I'm not an engine builder.  But will take things apart and try my best at this stuff.

So, anyway, they have lasted at least 1100 miles.

[72cudamaan]

The motor has about 1100 miles on it since he built it last.
Apparently the same thing happened last time.   Spun bearing. Didn't hurt the crank. 

I'm not an engine builder.  But will take things apart and try my best at this stuff.

So, anyway, they have lasted at least 1100 miles.

Sounds like he isn't an engine builder either. The odds of spinning a bearing and not damaging the
journal are slim. The rod journal is probably damaged as well. THAT is most likely why the bearing is spinning.

['Cuda Hunter]

I agree with you. 

So, I was thinking of doing the 440 crank thing.

But, don't really know where to go.  So here I am asking for help.

?

[brads70]

I'd want to see it all disassembled before I laid out any money? Block and crank might be junk for all you know?

['Cuda Hunter]

I know what your saying.

This engine came with a bunch of stuff that I am, well saving, kind of.   Long story.

Engine's mine though.  Got to deal with it.   Just don't know where to go with it right now.

[HP_Cuda]

I for one would not go back to that so-called engine builder.

First assess the damage and move on from there. Doesn't make sense to do the crank unless you are committed to doing a stroker build which means added cost. Break it down to the short block and take measurements and I'm sure you will most likely have to do another bore and hone.

Simple cheaper things to do is to change out the cam and pistons for a diff compression ratio but stay within reality.

['Cuda Hunter]

Is the current compression ratio out of reality?

I won't be going back to this guy. 

So, engine combination is a junk combination? 
Aside from the problem it does have, is this a bad build? 

What's wrong with the parts together on the engine?

Details as to what is wrong would be nice.  Is everything crap?

[HP2]

At your altitude the compression ratio is fine. I'd bet you could even drop down a size or two on the cam duration for even more power.

Overall it isn't a bad combo of parts, but...

There is something hinky going on with the bottom end if he has spun bearings twice in 1000 miles. You definetly need to pull it down and verify if the bearing has spun or if it just blackened the journal. That seems to be the Achilles heel in this build. In either case, you rarely spin a bearing without damaging a crank or rod. If the previous builder didn't address both of those when he put it together, I'm not surprised it happened again. You can't just change the bearing a keep moving forward.

To correct, you you may need to push wire brushes through all the oil passages in the block and crank to make sure they are clear. Make sure all the oiling holes line up with bearing holes during re-assembly. Resizing the rod ends to get the proper bearing crush will be key. Mic the crank throws to make sure there is no taper in them, and likewise the rod ends. Good rod bolts torqued properly are another key part.

Spinning the bearing likely put a fair amount of metal into the engine. It should probably be hot tanked to get the crud out of it and all bearings in all positions replaced for peace of mind.

[Chryco Psycho]

I still don't get the 44 crank unless it si a 440 crank in which case why use a cast one ??
 I prefer to use the longer rods & shorter piston but it will run that way .
 I think you will be unhappy with the cam , anything around 300* duration is gong to be lumpy & start making power 2800 range , you can try it though , not sure if you are using a auto behind it if so you will need a 3500 converter likely & at least 3.55 gear

['Cuda Hunter]

Ok, so I think the crank is screwed.  As well as some other parts.
I'm gonna post some pics here and would like you to tell me what you think.

This is what the motor is.

['Cuda Hunter]