Author Topic: curb idle and choke  (Read 683 times)

Offline 30below

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curb idle and choke
« on: July 17, 2013 - 12:18:03 PM »
On my 73 340,the choke stays on a long time before it will finally kick down.Its an electric choke.Wondering if it could be a ground problem ,as everything on the block was painted.I also do not have the curb idle solenoid wired in.What exactly would that effect.And does that wire to the alternator?Seems when I first start the car,there is no choke or fast idle at all until it warms up a bit,and then slowly  gets to high and difficult to kick down,but does eventually.




Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: curb idle and choke
« Reply #1 on: July 17, 2013 - 02:55:25 PM »
Sound like it is working backwards , is the heater element getting hot , it may have burned out ?? The power comes though a resistor to slow down the choke from the factory , it works better just connected to 12v , the blue wire to the ballast or Alt or volt reg is a good place to connect to . The choke should come on immediatly & come off in a minute or two .
« Last Edit: July 17, 2013 - 02:58:00 PM by Chryco Psycho »

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Offline Bullitt-

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Re: curb idle and choke
« Reply #2 on: July 17, 2013 - 03:13:30 PM »
Removed my curb idle solenoid years ago & have no problems that I can attribute to not having one, it would not have any effect on the choke anyway.
You did not mention the coke pull off,(we are talking Thermoquad right?) the vacuum diaphragm that pulls the choke open a little as soon as the car starts and continues to pull the choke open as the choke spring relaxes.
I would imagine if this is not working or improperly adjusted that you would not be getting enough air for the engine to run well cold. 
Wade  73 Rallye 340..'77 Millennium Falcon...13 R/T Classic   Huntsville, AL
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