Author Topic: Rust Seal  (Read 3426 times)

Offline Pow.steve

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Rust Seal
« on: July 24, 2013 - 11:30:48 AM »
I will begin removing some surface rust from the trunk pan and undercarriage of my Cuda soon! Do you guys think the SEM Rust Seal products are the best to use before painting black?




Offline rattlesnake

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Re: Rust Seal
« Reply #1 on: July 25, 2013 - 10:33:56 AM »
I would like some of the gang to elaborate on this topic. Do the rust treatment even work? I am speaking of the treatment products that you apply and they are supposed to convert the rust to some sort of black oxide. The rust is then supposed to be neutralized and can be painted over, never to be seen again. I think the overall best way is to remove the rust completely and then prime, paint and so on but I have not seen long term results from the treatment products and if they do work I'd probably fall in love. It just seems to easy.

Ray
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Offline rattlesnake

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Re: Rust Seal
« Reply #2 on: July 25, 2013 - 09:04:21 PM »
You have got to be kidding me. Noone has ever used this stuff or has any input?
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Offline ToxicWolf

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Re: Rust Seal
« Reply #3 on: July 25, 2013 - 10:00:38 PM »
OSPHO is what I have used and I have always been happy with the results.

Offline GranCuda1970

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Re: Rust Seal
« Reply #4 on: July 25, 2013 - 10:02:59 PM »
I agree, I have used it before with good result but don't get it on concrete it will turn it white.

Offline shawge

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Re: Rust Seal
« Reply #5 on: July 25, 2013 - 11:44:02 PM »
I have used Pickelx with good results.  Most anything with a phosphoric acid component will work well.  Spray it on, let it sit, scrub it with a red pad or wire brush, wipe off, repeat until rust is gone.  Works great on surface rust and minor pitting.  Heavy scale rust needs surgery.
- Jerry

Offline moparstyle

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Re: Rust Seal
« Reply #6 on: July 26, 2013 - 08:42:14 AM »
Been using POR 15 since 5 years back. Use it inside frame rails, a- pillars, inside trunk lids etc. Dont remember the exact wording in the instructions but it prefers some surface rust to really attach.
5 years and still looking good.   
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And on the side:
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Offline Gumby

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Re: Rust Seal
« Reply #7 on: July 26, 2013 - 07:48:26 PM »
When I worked for a power company utility down in Houston, (4th largest utility in the nation) they put out a 1" thick slab of metal and painted various products on it to test its endurance for rust preventative. They left it outside in the brutal heat and the rain, etc for 6 months plus. I make no claims. I'm not affiliated with any company. But, 3M makes a product called Mar-Hyde One Step. That stuff outlasted every other product by a WIDE, wide margin. That's what I would use. You can get it at any professional paint supply store that sells 3M products. It was phenominal. That was years ago. Maybe there is something better on the market now. It's not like 3M hasn't been around awhile. Your mileage may vary. This stuff was the good stuff, back then, anyway. It flat out rocked, compared to every other brand of stuff that they tested.
« Last Edit: July 26, 2013 - 07:52:03 PM by Gumby »
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Offline johns cuda shop

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Re: Rust Seal
« Reply #8 on: July 28, 2013 - 08:54:43 AM »
I live in a area of the country that is extremely humid year around..Whichever product you use ,keep in mind preparation is the key. I always make sure the surface is free from grease, dirt, loose rust ect, Areas that you cant get to very like quarter panel well areas ,cowl firewall pinch welds ,ect. I would soak that area till the product leaks out . This way there is no nasty suprise years down the road. I do this with every car I have blasted.
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Offline Pow.steve

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Re: Rust Seal
« Reply #9 on: July 29, 2013 - 10:57:26 PM »
Thanks for all the info guys! Wish me luck!

Offline ek3

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Re: Rust Seal
« Reply #10 on: August 01, 2013 - 10:18:17 PM »
I would like some of the gang to elaborate on this topic. Do the rust treatment even work? I am speaking of the treatment products that you apply and they are supposed to convert the rust to some sort of black oxide. The rust is then supposed to be neutralized and can be painted over, never to be seen again. I think the overall best way is to remove the rust completely and then prime, paint and so on but I have not seen long term results from the treatment products and if they do work I'd probably fall in love. It just seems to easy.

Ray
there are many phosphoric acid products on the market. I used ospho 30 years ago on military jobs. it was the only" US AIR FORCE"  accepted method other than total removal to bare metal. the way ospho works is the acid converts iron oxide to iron phosphate . ospho also has a di-chromate  in it to inhibit future rust. is must be completely dry before painting over it. once the rust is converted  and before it can start to rust , it is best to prime over it with an epoxy zinc chromate system. these  primers  when cured , are impervious to moisture . if moisture can't contact the metal.. it cant rust. these primers are also so hard that you normally only have a small time after priming to apply the top coat or risk coating separation.  ospho is not a metal cleaner. it is a rust converter with a light rust inhibitor . the absolute way , is to blast to clean metal , clean with de-greaser , prep-sol wipe clean, and epoxy prime.  = forget rust

Offline BruteForce

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Re: Rust Seal
« Reply #11 on: August 02, 2013 - 08:35:11 PM »
I always wonder what people do for inside the frame rails.

Offline E-Body Products

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Re: Rust Seal
« Reply #12 on: August 06, 2013 - 10:51:39 PM »
Good suggestions!!!

Offline E-Body Products

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Re: Rust Seal
« Reply #13 on: August 06, 2013 - 10:51:45 PM »
Good suggestions!!!

Offline E-Body Products

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Re: Rust Seal
« Reply #14 on: August 06, 2013 - 10:52:46 PM »
Oxi-Solve leaves a phosphate on bare metal.