Bell housing CORRECT vs what works for my car

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    Author Topic: Bell housing CORRECT vs what works for my car  (Read 926 times)

    Offline Todd Smith

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    Bell housing CORRECT vs what works for my car
    « on: July 28, 2013 - 02:24:42 PM »
    Please correct me where I'm wrong ......... God I hate to do things twice  :scared:
       
    Have 70 challenger was 318 auto. On its way to 70 R/T S/E with 520" stroker + Dana
    The correct bell would be the Aluminum for the 10.5 130 tooth flywheel..... ??
    Aluminum bell and 600 +/- horses probably isn’t a good idea anyway.

    But I'm not getting that on a Keith Black 8 bolt crank.....LOL Though you can get the 130 in 8 bolt. So I need to go 143 tooth flywheel (Q) and a cast iron bell or a scatter shield....... I don't like scatter shields... but that doesn't mean I'm dead set against putting one in, It's just she'll be a street Queen and never see the track.

    The question is, what combination of cast iron bell, clutch fork retainer, clutch fork and zbar will get me there??? I know there are different bellhouseing ball stud brackets and so on that can be had.
    Some cut -- paste / relocation doesn't scare me. But if you know the strait path, I’d really appreciate it.    I just don't want to experiment and end up with extra parts and $$ in the “God Dimit” box AGAIN!!
    I have the early 70, 23 spline  with the 4.807" diameter bearing retainer.
    I’d like to use the McLeod clutch, Chryco thinks so much of.


    Thanks to all. Have a great day
     :burnout:
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    Offline Chryco Psycho

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    Re: Bell housing CORRECT vs what works for my car
    « Reply #1 on: July 28, 2013 - 04:44:01 PM »
    There are some aftermarket alum belhousings that are more beefy , I would look at those , alum bels do not seem to crack unless you have broken mounts .
     I would use the 130 tooth flywheel & the 10.95 clutch , you can get a double disc street twin McLeod with the Borg & Beck / Long clutch ,
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    Offline Todd Smith

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    Re: Bell housing CORRECT vs what works for my car
    « Reply #2 on: July 29, 2013 - 09:56:29 AM »
    Quote from: Chryco Psycho on July 28, 2013 - 04:44:01 PM
    There are some aftermarket alum belhousings that are more beefy , I would look at those , alum bels do not seem to crack unless you have broken mounts .
     I would use the 130 tooth flywheel & the 10.95 clutch , you can get a double disc street twin McLeod with the Borg & Beck / Long clutch ,

    Have one you really like in mind? For the bell.

    Thanks Chryco...... You're the best
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    Offline HP_Cuda

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    Re: Bell housing CORRECT vs what works for my car
    « Reply #3 on: July 29, 2013 - 12:51:58 PM »

    Check out brewers, they have quite a few.

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    Offline Todd Smith

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    Re: Bell housing CORRECT vs what works for my car
    « Reply #4 on: July 29, 2013 - 01:50:21 PM »
    Quote from: HP_Cuda on July 29, 2013 - 12:51:58 PM
    Check out brewers, they have quite a few.

    Thanks HP................... been their and Passions
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    Offline bigblue73

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    Re: Bell housing CORRECT vs what works for my car
    « Reply #5 on: July 29, 2013 - 02:46:51 PM »
    Please consider going to a blow-proof unit with 600 plus horsepower.  The idea is to contain a clutch explosion inside the can and save you a ton of money by saving your block and keeping your feed dangling from the correct point on your body.  I've never personally seen a clutch explosion but we patched a floor pan for a drag racer that went through it.  It was nasty.  Quicktime is the best for run-out and concentricity.
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    Offline HP_Cuda

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    Re: Bell housing CORRECT vs what works for my car
    « Reply #6 on: July 29, 2013 - 04:44:22 PM »

    I also remember back in the day there was scattershield blankets as well.
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    Offline Chryco Psycho

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    Re: Bell housing CORRECT vs what works for my car
    « Reply #7 on: July 29, 2013 - 05:59:26 PM »
    I cannot remember the make but we ordered one a few years back very HD alum belhousing , had the name cast into the top which would not be seen against the floor .
     You could look at using a hyd clutch system also ,  NOT Keisler there is a second company making a bleedable one .
     Regular Z bar & linkage is easy also .
     I use blastsheilds or the most part .
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    Offline Todd Smith

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    Re: Bell housing CORRECT vs what works for my car
    « Reply #8 on: July 30, 2013 - 11:07:08 AM »
    Quote from: bigblue73 on July 29, 2013 - 02:46:51 PM
    Please consider going to a blow-proof unit with 600 plus horsepower.  The idea is to contain a clutch explosion inside the can and save you a ton of money by saving your block and keeping your feed dangling from the correct point on your body.  I've never personally seen a clutch explosion but we patched a floor pan for a drag racer that went through it.  It was nasty.  Quicktime is the best for run-out and concentricity.

    Big BlueThanks for the concern. You are probably right. I've never SEEN one come apart, but I know it happens. Be kinda like sitting on a granade and It's no more expencive than a new heavy duty

    RE_THINKING............... :2thumbs:
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    I enjoy every minute of it!
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