Leaf Spring Replacement

[7212Mopar]

I read through most of the older threads concerning replacing the rear leaf springs. It does not sounds like an easy job at all and this is my first attempt. I am at an age of diminishing muscle power so I will find myself a long breaker bar and try not to twist the bolts off. I got the Mopar springs (made in Mexico), the rear rubber bushings and new U-bolts. However, I have not purchased new shackles or mounting bolts. I guess I will find out when I get on it tomorrow. From the old threads, I did not see any mention on specific torque requirement when bolting the assembly back. Anyone knows what it should be?

[Bullitt-]

Tighten with weight on the wheels

73 Service Manual says in foot pounds
Center Bolt Nut....40
Front Hanger Nut..30
Pivot Bolt or Nut..125
Rear Hanger Bolt..30
Shackle Nut.........40
U Bolt Nut...........45....for 7-1/4 axle..40
Rear Shock Lower.50    Front Shock Lower.50
    "           Upper.70           "         Upper.25

Rear Sway Bar measured in inch pounds
Shaft Bracket Retaining Screw...200
Link Nut.................................100

[4Cruizn]

I read through most of the older threads concerning replacing the rear leaf springs. It does not sounds like an easy job at all and this is my first attempt. I am at an age of diminishing muscle power so I will find myself a long breaker bar and try not to twist the bolts off. I got the Mopar springs (made in Mexico), the rear rubber bushings and new U-bolts. However, I have not purchased new shackles or mounting bolts. I guess I will find out when I get on it tomorrow. From the old threads, I did not see any mention on specific torque requirement when bolting the assembly back. Anyone knows what it should be?

It's been awhile since I put in new springs  but if I can do it . . . Anyone can!   Everything came apart pretty easy though . . . .

[anlauto]

Save yourself hours and hours of frustration and just cut off the U bolts and replace them

[Jesus H Chrysler]

   I don't know where you or the car are from, but here in the rust belt it's pretty pointless to save the U bolts.  Shackles can be saved with liberal use of PB Blaster and/or heat.  FYI the Mopar springs tend to lose their "spring" after a while so keep an eye out for sagging.

[7212Mopar]

Thanks everyone. I do have new U bolts but not new bolts at the hangers. Car was originally sold in San Jose CA and spent time in Oregon. The last time I looked, it was not too rusty. Know more when I get started tomorrow. As far as tighten with weight on wheels, I suppose it is same with weight of the car on springs and supported at axle with jack stands or geometry not the same? Since I don't have a lift, not sure I can reach the bolts with the wheels on the ground.

[Bullitt-]

As far as tighten with weight on wheels, I suppose it is same with weight of the car on springs and supported at axle with jack stands or geometry not the same? Since I don't have a lift, not sure I can reach the bolts with the wheels on the ground.

Yea that should be fine, just wanted to give you fair warning. 

[Road_Runner]

Last time I did this in the driveway I used two sturdy jacks, one under each frame in front of the forward leaf spring mount.  When you take off your tires put them under the car  in front of the jacks as well just in case the car falls off the jacks while you're working.  I then used a floor jack to lift the weight off the center of the rear end, then on one side unbolted the shocks, ubolts rear shackles then front leafspring eye bolt.  Install in opposite order of removal, then when you're finished with one side do the other.  You may have to tweak the floor jack to help keep tension off the leaf springs until both ends are re-attached.  That's how I did it.  I can soooo relate to not being as strong as I used to be.  In the past I've installed transmisions by myself without a jack .... probably won't be doing that again!  Good luck & be safe!!!

Later, Jim

[Chryco Psycho]

You will probably need new spring eye bolts too , they usually sieze in the front bushing so you have to grind the bolt off to remove the front mount , I would use a grade 8 bolt & lock nut to replace the factory one & coat the bolt with anti sieze .

[7212Mopar]

Ok, another one (that would be me) bite the dust. I thought my old leaf springs were sagging since the back is lowered than front. So after putting in a new set of Mopar XHD springs, the height is the same as before  . Search some more old threads and concluded my old springs were not sagging (XHD springs do not raise the ride height). I understand air shocks are no no and I am not motivated to take it apart again soon. The rear sits 23-5/8" and front 25-5/8" to the fender lips. At this point, I am thinking to lower the front so that front and back is about the same height (pro touring look?). I suppose lowering the front two inches by cranking down the torsion bar adjusting bolts will change the alignment. Anyone know a good alignment shop that knows classic Mopar located in the SF Bay Area?

[dodj]

As far as sagging goes, on a Challenger, about 1" to1 1/2" of the rear tire is up inside the wheel well at stock height.

[brads70]

I didn't care for the stock saggy bum look either so I used plus 1 1/2" springs from ESPO . They worked great for me, had them on the car for 2-3 years till I went with composites.

[dodj]

I didn't care for the stock saggy bum look either so I used plus 1 1/2" springs from ESPO .

The other option is the way I went, and dropped the nose until I didn't have the saggy bum look. 

[Jesus H Chrysler]

The other option is the way I went, and dropped the nose until I didn't have the saggy bum look. 

I did that.  In New England, the roads suck and they love speed bumps.  My Challenger with the homemade frame connectors got a lot of scrapes.  And the handling sucked.  Better off trying lifted springs in the back.

[7212Mopar]

Ok guys, you are confusing me. So I am going to do both. Drop the front a bit. I figured one or two turns will not affect the alignment much. I also ordered a set of Hellwig EZ550 helper springs from Summit so I don't have to take it apart again. It will go to the back half of the spring only. It is supposed to be adjustable depending how tight you torque the bolts. I probably try to salvage the plastic spacers from my old springs place under the helper springs to avoid any squeaking sound. Will see how that works out this weekend. My quest for better butt posture continue.