And So It Begins.... 1970 340 Cuda Restoration

[rUNCHARGER]

Up where I live in Canada that's a $25k job and you have to beg to have it done. Sorry, it seems much easier and cheaper anywhere else in the world.

Sheldon

[anlauto]

Up where I live in Canada that's a $25k job and you have to beg to have it done. Sorry, it seems much easier and cheaper anywhere else in the world.

Sheldon

I was just going to answer with the exact same number.

[loco340cuda]

Sheldon and Alan, thanks for the data point!  That is definitely more expensive then what I was thinking.    It sounds like bodywork up there north of the border is more expensive then in the States

I'm thinking I should be able to get the job done for <$15k, but I am soliciting input to see if I am in the ball park or not. Obviously out of the gate the feedback doesn't look good but it sounds like Canada might be more expensive for this type of work.

How about you guys in the US what are you seeing for our cars?

[sadil340]

I got a show quality job for $20k not including metal work. So you might be close for a driver quality job at $15k including metal work if the metal work isn't too expensive.

[loco340cuda]

Cool, thanks for the input sadil340. 

[Pat O']

I'm at 20K now for a show quality job with a little metal work on the body here in Colorado. And that's not counting the previous work on replacing the trunk pan, extensions and some quarter panel patches.  I've had to switch shops also, so a bit of the price is some "do over" work that the new shop insists on doing to guarantee the work.

I've spent the summer looking and pricing and going to car shows and comparing so I think I'm in the ball park for that sort of work.

Hope that Helps.   Beer and shot helps too, before writing the checks.

[loco340cuda]

Thanks Pat O'  :thumbs:  That helps, it is another good data point.

I hear ya on the drinking before writing the checks.  I've owned this car for 15 years and the reason it does not have paint on it yet is because of the fear of check writing. I just couldn't get myself to do it. About two years ago when I go involved with my neighbor on this car project I finally convinced myself I could write some checks.  I think this bodywork stuff is like ripping a band-aid off, the quicker you can write the checks and get the paint on the better (assuming a good paint job).  In the case of working with my neighbor it was like slowly ripping off the band-aid and then stalling a quarter of the way thru. 

I haven't done anything with the car in a year and have not written any checks in that time so I am trying to get the nerve up to start doing that again but it seems harder this time because the next shop I will be dealing with someone I don't personally know.  Man, I hate this part of the resto! 

[sadil340]

Maybe it would help to think of it as an investment instead of an expense! You may not get 100% of your money back some day but the difference will be more than made up in the fun factor. Life is short! There will never be the perfect time to write those checks.

Disclosure: I'm not the one writing the checks 

[ShelbyDogg]

I use a Maaco shop here in ST. Louis for my driver quality paint jobs. I put so many miles on my cars that I can't sweat a hail storm, thunder storm, rock chips or bird poop. They have paint sales that can get you a machine sand and enamel paint job for $350.

My 70 was painted around 2003. It was a $499 Urethane paint job, which is now around $699.  You pay $75 more each "hole" meaning trunk, under hood, door (includes both sides). I paid a couple of hundred more to wet sand and buff the top to the body line. I get Urethane paint so gas spilling on it never takes off any paint. Vert was painted around 6 years ago? I lost track....

They have now painted 10 cars that I brought them. If you don't take off any trim, it will be taped off, so take everything off before delivery.
My Vert went in with just the body. I made a wiring harness that only had an ignition switch, oil pressure light and start circuit on a steering column without a dash installed, so I could drive it on and off of the trailer. I paid $100 for an added clear, which I watched him add to the final coat, which lightened the color on the '71, which I wish that I skipped. I though he meant a separate clear coat.











 

[crash340]

Over this side of the pond the hourly rate is $75 for a pannel shop, I need a back to metal due to crappy paint and some small body work issues sorted, no rust as such and I dont want a show paint job, my local guy who is fanatical with his work said id need $15-$20K for a driver paint job with pannel work. now, I'd love a nice driver paint job but damn I cant spend that sort of coin, I would be parking in the corner of the lot putting up barriers and sending my girlfriend to the bathroom for me at that rate, I want to enjoy my car, drive it alot and not freak out, Im almost looking at having them fix the pannel work and rattle can matt black so I can touch up at any point!!! Im a fence sitter right now on this

[loco340cuda]

Sadil340, you are 100% spot on.... there will never be the perfect time to write those checks!

Shelbydogg, thanks for the picts, your cars look great.  Maaco, who woulda thunk!

Crash, thanks for the data point.  I hear ya on can't spend that kinda coin.  $15K is the absolute upper end I could spend and even then I would have to feel like they are doing a lot to spend that on my particular car.

Okay, so I did get an estimate today from a body shop who said they could fix the rust and do the body work for ~$10k.  They would not do anything with the bottom or inside the car.  Beside the exterior, they will paint the engine compartment, door jambs, and trunk area, not anywhere else.  This will also not include getting the rear axle housing or k-frame painted (that would be extra). The guy also said it would be an extra $1500 to do a color sand and buff.  They showed me some pictures of cars that they had done as well as a couple of cars they are doing right now, a 68 Mustang (Eleanor clone), and 69 Chevelle.  I'm still on the fence on if I am going to consider them or not but the guy did understand the type of paint job I wanted as well as trying to stay in a budget so that was a plus but on the other hand I am concerned that they will try to cut corners to keep it to $10k (talked about masking things off instead of removing them, just stuff in the engine bay, not exterior).  He also did not seem familiar with e-bodies so that gives me some pause as well (he knew GM and Ford cars). 

I got the name of another shop so I am going to go and talk with them and see what they say.  I'm hoping they are within my budget and I have a little better feeling about them.

[loco340cuda]

Okay so I spoke with the other shop today and they seemed like the place to go with so I have my car scheduled to go in in 3 weeks.  They said that they estimate it will cost between $12k to $14k but that includes putting it on a rotiseerie and cleaning the bottom and undercoating it to look clean.

I started tearing down the car tonight to get it ready to bring in.  The car needs to go in as a roller so I need to basically strip the car down to a rolling shell.  Any tips or advice on tearing the car down is appreciated as maybe I can avoid any mistakes others have made.

[sadil340]

Okay so I spoke with the other shop today and they seemed like the place to go with so I have my car scheduled to go in in 3 weeks.  They said that they estimate it will cost between $12k to $14k but that includes putting it on a rotiseerie and cleaning the bottom and undercoating it to look clean.

I started tearing down the car tonight to get it ready to bring in.  The car needs to go in as a roller so I need to basically strip the car down to a rolling shell.  Any tips or advice on tearing the car down is appreciated as maybe I can avoid any mistakes others have made.

Good for you!! 

I built a rotisserie for my car when I did it - make sure the wheels can stand up to sandblasting! Ask me how I know... 

I'll try to think of other issues I ran into

[anlauto]

.  They said that they estimate it will cost between $12k to $14k but that includes putting it on a rotiseerie and cleaning the bottom and undercoating it to look clean.

That price sounds good...too good.
Before you commit to this new company I would ask two important questions:

First, references, is there any recent local past customers that you can call.

Second, estimate guarantee....They say $12K-$14K.... How close will the final price be ? Can they guarantee +/- 5%, 10%, 15% over and above ? Those numbers are reasonable, but once they get up into 50% it's time to worry....

You've heard the stories...tell you $12K-$14K to get you in the door.....

[loco340cuda]

Alan thanks for the feedback, you bring up some good questions.  My biggest fear is your line about, you've hear the stories.....  Here is why I think (hope) it will not be like that.

I was referred to the bodyshop by a speedshop (this speedshop does everything except body and paint, i.e restorations, engine and mechanical work, etc.).  They said they use a few different places for body and paint depending on the level of paint job the customer is looking for and since I was looking for a quality driver paint job they recommended the place i'm going with.  The guy at the speedshop showed me a truck in their shop (69 Chevy 4X4) that was recently painted by the body shop and the work looked really nice.  The guy said this is what he would consider a driver quality paint job and said the shop who did it is usually comes in a few thousand cheaper then some of the others they use.  The guy told me if he was going to get his own car painted he would take it to the shop he recommended me too.

While I was at the bodyshop the owner showed me his daily driver truck (68 Chevy short bed) with what he called a driver quality paint job and it looked identical in quality and shine as the other truck i saw at the speed shop.  I have seen two examples of their work as well as was recommended to them from a speedshop who uses them so at this point I am "somewhat" comfortable. 

I think the reason the cost "appears" to be good is that the front half of the car is basically done.  The doors, fenders, hood, front valence, and header panel just need some final prep work before paint, this stuff was done by the other body shop.  This last body shop I just took it too is the third shop that i haven gotten an estimate from and all three have quoted ~$12k so that is why I think the number from the latest shop is good.  I would expect when it is all said and done the number will be more like $14k instead of $12k.  I think if the other body work had not been done the number he gave me would be at least $3k-$5k higher.

Well, you never fully know how things are going to go, so here is to hoping I can report back a good experience.