Well, turns out you have to remove the steering wheel, crush can and turn signal mechanism to get to the ignition light. Really not that hard but not a bulb you want to replace regularly.
After doing all that I found the bulb worked fine. Someone had rattle-canned the steering column and painted right over the tip of the light pipe. Once I cleaned the black paint off the end it was just as dim and useless as people told me it would be. At least I feel better though.