Is this floor pan original?

[Moneypit440]

My 1970 floor pan is a two piece sealed together just behind where the bucket seats mount.  I assume that factory originals were all one piece floor pans.  Am I correct?

Also, if the prior owner who welded the thin steel plate on the driver's side heel pad area on top of the old rusted floor pan happens to read this post, can we meet somewhere for a private discussion?  I want to thank you in person for that repair job.

[anlauto]

Is there a weld seam along the transmission tunnel? Sounds like your car has had some floor work done in the past

[Moneypit440]

Is there a weld seam along the transmission tunnel? Sounds like your car has had some floor work done in the past

I believe so.  I say "believe" because there are two seams both covered in a thick, rubbery caulk like material.  I assume it is covering bead welds.  One seam runs from side to side behind front seat mounts, the other is vertical along the top of tranny tunnel between front and back seats. So I am guessing they split the back half of a two piece replacement pan for easy installation?

I ain't happy.  Matching numbers U code with 46k miles, bought from up north and shipped south.  I paid for an inspection as a precaution.  Now with what seems to be a piecemeal floor pan and no sequence numbers on cowl or radiator support, my original R/T is looking more like a restored barn find.  I do have fender tag and build sheet.  It's an enigma.  I have about $45k in it and think I have a $28k car.

I found the floor pan issue because I decided to recover the front seats and replace carpet, trying to keep the original look since I had matching drivetrain and build sheet.  Now I wonder if its a lost cause.

Floor pan can probably survive with another sheet metal patch and a sand and paint job, but I am not sure what to do.  If it is a replacement, and it has already rusted out and been patched once, maybe it was deteriorated when they installed it?  I know 44 years is a long time, but how often should a floor pan corrode on a low mileage car?

[anlauto]

Why don't you post some pictures of these cars...

[Moneypit440]

Why don't you post some pictures of these cars...

Will do.  Should I put em here or in another thread?

[RzeroB]

I believe so.  I say "believe" because there are two seams both covered in a thick, rubbery caulk like material.  I assume it is covering bead welds.  One seam runs from side to side behind front seat mounts, the other is vertical along the top of tranny tunnel between front and back seats. So I am guessing they split the back half of a two piece replacement pan for easy installation?

I ain't happy.  Matching numbers U code with 46k miles, bought from up north and shipped south.  I paid for an inspection as a precaution.  Now with what seems to be a piecemeal floor pan and no sequence numbers on cowl or radiator support, my original R/T is looking more like a restored barn find.  I do have fender tag and build sheet.  It's an enigma.  I have about $45k in it and think I have a $28k car.

I found the floor pan issue because I decided to recover the front seats and replace carpet, trying to keep the original look since I had matching drivetrain and build sheet.  Now I wonder if its a lost cause.

Floor pan can probably survive with another sheet metal patch and a sand and paint job, but I am not sure what to do.  If it is a replacement, and it has already rusted out and been patched once, maybe it was deteriorated when they installed it?  I know 44 years is a long time, but how often should a floor pan corrode on a low mileage car?

Okay, you have a U-code Challenger RT that at one point apparently needed some sheetmetal repair. The VIN, or partial VIN should be able to be found in seven locations on your car and it sounds like you have the matching VIN numbers in at least five of the seven locations. Not bad at all. You also have the matching buildsheet which reinforces the five matching numbers that you do have. Looking pretty good so far. All is not lost my friend, sounds like a matching numbers car to me that needed some sheetmetal work.

As for the floor pan rusting on a low mileage car I have one word for you. Salt. You said the car came from "up north", chances are it was exposed to road salt - the dreaded destroyer of all things made of steel. Even one year of northern winter driving in a road salt environment is enough to get the corrosion process started.

[RzeroB]

Will do.  Should I put em here or in another thread?

How about in the Newbie Intro forum so you can introduce yourself and your rides?

[Katfish]

I can think of 6 spots, where's the 7th?
door decal
dash VIN
cowl
radiator support
engine
tranny

[RzeroB]

I can think of 6 spots, where's the 7th?
door decal
dash VIN
cowl
radiator support
engine
tranny

and the fender tag makes seven

[anlauto]

There's actually 11 places of a fully documented numbers matching car.

1) Dash VIN
2) Door VIN decal
3) Fender tag(s)
4) Upper cowl
5) Rad support
6) Engine block
7) Transmission
8 ) Broadcast Sheet
9) Warranty card
10) Window sticker
11) Title/ownership

[Moneypit440]

and the fender tag makes seven

.
Well I do have everything except radiator support and cowl, plus I have the build sheet.  Maybe it isn't so bad.  I posted a couple of pics of each car on the newbie site, not enough to fully assess conditions of the cars but a start.  Some pics of the Challenger floor pan, after I removed buckts seats, bench seat bottom and carpet are below.  Should I try to repair it?

[RzeroB]

There's actually 11 places of a fully documented numbers matching car.

1) Dash VIN
2) Door VIN decal
3) Fender tag(s)
4) Upper cowl
5) Rad support
6) Engine block
7) Transmission
Broadcast Sheet
9) Warranty card
10) Window sticker
11) Title/ownership

  Yes, I agree completely, but I was refering to things that you would expect to find physically on or attached to the car if you were buying one today.

[anlauto]

With the exception of the patch under the brake pedal, those floors look 100% original to me.

[Moneypit440]

With the exception of the patch under the brake pedal, those floors look 100% original to me.

Seriously?  I assumed all those seams indicated replacement work.  If its original, I think I should cut away the drivers side patch, put down a new one and spend a fortune on POR-15.  What do you think?

[anlauto]

Whatever floats your boat !