Paint still sticky after 3 weeks?

[Moneypit440]

Pot life( or how long before the paint harderns) is only a matter of hours after the hardener is mixed with the paint. You always mix the paint JUST before shooting it. Where did you buy the paint? You need to find a store with a good paint guy as the one you dealt with doesn`t sound like they know what they are doing! The other quart of paint is probably fine if you get the correct hardener,  what is the type of paint??? Also ask for the data/tech sheet for the paint as it will tell you everything you need to know about mixing, pot life, spraying temp and so on.

Paint is DuPont ful-cryl ii acrylic enamel mix ID-4.  I can google and find it on one company's website with no tech sheet.  Not too sure I want to go back to seller for info, but would like to return the paint.......at midnight.......through a window.

Some of you guys are in Georgia.  Get your rags and head to Braselton.  Bring your wire crimpers and fuses and finish up the cuda while you are here.  I have to go to a corn maze....will leave garage open.

[torredcuda]

http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/common/pdfs/b/product/nsn/Nason/fulcrylii.pdf

[Moneypit440]

Thank you, Torred.  My google skills must be slipping.

[anlauto]

Isn't it 4 weeks now ?

[RzeroB]

The primer is urethane.  I used two coats, probably about an hour apart.  The first seemed dry to touch when I applied second.

All paint was applied in direct sun with temp in 80s.  I lightly sanded primer, then applied topcoat (DuPont acrylic) using a disposal aerosol sprayer.  Dealer said no hardener was needed, or that it would be premixed, I don't recall which.  They also said second coat could be applied after 30 minutes, which I did.

The primer required an activator, which I used.  It went on and dried well.  Top coat is still sticky.

That bites! Not only is a lot of hard work to clean it up and do it over, but it's expensive too - paint aint cheap!

Pretty much all modern automotive paints now require a catalyst (hardener) to cure (dry). Instead of curing through evaporation of the solvents they now cure thru a chemical cross-linking process that is initiated by the introduction of the catalyst (hardener) into the paint. Once they get mixed together you only have a finite amount of time (pot life) before the curing process starts to solidify - usually about an hour or so. You can't "pre-mix" them at the paint store, otherwise you would have a solid cylinder of paint in the paint can when you opened it up on the day you intended to paint. A painter's best friend is the tech sheet that comes with the paint. Always follow the instructions on the tech sheet as to how to prep, mix, and shoot the paint and 98% of the time the results will turn out great.

Blows I know, but there isn't any easy way to fix it other than to remove the un-catalyzed paint as best you can and then redo it.

[Moneypit440]

Isn't it 4 weeks now ?

Everybody's a comedian!  As of tomorrow, it is 4 weeks.  Hey, it gives me something to track.  Several guys above spoke of the tech data sheets, etc.  I took pictures of the paint I was using in Challenger trunk, plus the paint I bought for the cuda trunk pan.  If they give any clues to anyone, post what it means and I will pay to have Anlauto do his stand-up routine for your birthday!

 The white paint is actually a second order, as I was concerned that the initial pint did not seem to be enough.  However, I never had to open the second can.  I bought a quart for the cuda because more than just the trunk floor needed painting (hinges, under the rear window section, and such).

[RzeroB]

Everybody's a comedian!  As of tomorrow, it is 4 weeks.  Hey, it gives me something to track.  Several guys above spoke of the tech data sheets, etc.  I took pictures of the paint I was using in Challenger trunk, plus the paint I bought for the cuda trunk pan.  If they give any clues to anyone, post what it means and I will pay to have Anlauto do his stand-up routine for your birthday!

Those labels on the can are the color mix formula that tells which colors, and the amounts of each color, that were mixed together to create the desired color that you ordered.

The "tech sheet", or "technical manual" is the instructions that tell you how to prep, mix, and shoot the paint. A good example is in the link that torredcuda previously posted to this thread a couple of posts back on 06 October. Your paint supplier should have provided it to you, or at least offered it to you, when you bought the paint.

As for Alan's standup routine for my birthday ... thankfully it has already passed, and hopefully you will have forgotten by the time it rolls around again!

[torredcuda]

Is there a reason you are using Jaguar and GM formulas rather than the correct dodge/Plymouth ones?

[Moneypit440]

Is there a reason you are using Jaguar and GM formulas rather than the correct dodge/Plymouth ones?

They used an electronic pigment scanner to determine the colors.  I had planned on giving them the Chrysler codes.  It made me nervous, but with it being applied to trunk floors and mostly covered with mats, I gave them the benefit of the doubt.  Plus, they were recommended by a buddy who restores cars.

If we assume they should have provided separate hardeners, would I be making a mistake to try the paint again with off the shelf hardener?  On second thought, maybe I should buy the catalyst and reducer shown on the tech data sheet you linked?  Are they the missing ingredients?

[torredcuda]

Scanning is fine as it will pick the best match which is not always the factory color. Buy the catalyst and reducer listed on the tech sheet and you shouldn`t have any problems. Try not to mix and match different brands.

[Moneypit440]

Thanks, Torred.  I printed the tech sheet you linked and will try again with the paint I have.  One last question.......any idea where one goes to buy the catalyst and reducer?  I  have most of the major auto shops nearby, Ace Hardware, Home Depot....plus I am only a couple miles from Year One.  I googled "ful-cryl 483-11" and picked up a lot of mail order sites and forum topics, but no retail outlets.

You know, 40 years ago painting the wheels on plastic models with Testors Flat Black was a lot simpler than the real thing.  Come to think of it, the gloss paints always streaked.

[72cudamaan]

Thanks, Torred.  I printed the tech sheet you linked and will try again with the paint I have.  One last question.......any idea where one goes to buy the catalyst and reducer?  I  have most of the major auto shops nearby, Ace Hardware, Home Depot....plus I am only a couple miles from Year One.  I googled "ful-cryl 483-11" and picked up a lot of mail order sites and forum topics, but no retail outlets.

You know, 40 years ago painting the wheels on plastic models with Testors Flat Black was a lot simpler than the real thing.  Come to think of it, the gloss paints always streaked.

I googled "automotive paint supplies' and got 33 hits. Some were PBE dealers and some were body shops.

[torredcuda]

Find a local auto parts store that carries Dupont paint or an automotive paint store, you won`t find it at a hardware store.

[torredcuda]

http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/visitor/b/dr/s/locator/locator.html

[Moneypit440]

Apparently I need to google with google.  A while back I changed to a search engine that allegedly allows me to hide from NSA.   It was probably set up by NSA to identify guys that feel they need to hide from NSA.

So my search engine sucks and I made the drone list.