Need to knw if this car is a good deal.

[Kato1]

1972 Challenger RT, strait, rust free body, new professionally rebuilt 383 BB, automatic A727 Torqueflite Tranz, New brakes, New tires, Weld race wheels, New HEI distributor, and lots and lots of new and used E-body parts.

There is over $15,000 & 10 years time gathering parts and pieces to build this Bada$$ ride. There's thousands of dollars in spare parts. $ 8,500 bucks gets it, and it's going to take more than a pickup truck to haul everything. Two complete sets of Rally wheels, 14's and 15's, two spare 8 3/4 sets of gears, extra window trim & new window whiskers, air shocks, drag shocks, 2 other small block motors, some extra glass, radiators, and stuff I've forgotten I had. This is all the info i have frm the guys ad

[moparman82]

There were no RT challengers in 72.   Other than that, looks pretty solid

['Cuda Hunter]

I agree. Looks pretty solid and probably a decent deal.

More pics would be nice of course.
A fender tag readout would also help.
Is there a build sheet?

[Kato1]

Oh ok thanks for that info. I didnt knw that. do you think 8500 is a good price and what should I ask the owner about the car? Im about to talk to him.

[Kato1]

I will ask for build sheet and fender tag. Do these have an ok value on them?

[MetalMilitiaSRT]

Seems like an OK deal. Perhaps more important is your budget... to get her rolling and looking good outside and in may take more than you think. It certainly was for me.

['Cuda Hunter]

Make sure the frame rails are solid.
There will probably be some sort of floor replacement somewhere on the car.  Pretty typical.
If the paint looks ok, I think the price sounds alright.

Make sure the body numbers match the vin number on the vin tag on the dash.  And they match the fender tag vin number.

[blown motor]

Is the seller promoting it as an RT? If so, what else is he lying to you about? So then, was the motor really professionally rebuilt or just painted to look good? i would ask to see invoices for the rebuild. I'm not trying to be a downer but the RT thing raises a red flag for me.

['Cuda Hunter]

Good point.

[RzeroB]

The first E-body I bought was a '72 Challenger "R/T". Okay, it was really a Challenger "Rallye" but I thought it was an "R/T" for the longest time - what did I know - I was only 19 at the time. For some reason Dodge dropped the "R/T" moniker after '71; maybe it was because of the insurance industry? Anyway, in '72 the "performance" model of the Challenger changed from "R/T" to "Rallye". Same stuff just a different name. If it's a base model Challenger the VIN would start with "JH" and if it's a "Rallye" it should start with "JS".

At this point it probably doesn't really matter what it was originally. Base model? Rallye? Neither of them came with a big-block in '72. Probably the most important thin as some of the guys have said is to make sure the body is fairly solid. Depending on what you want to do with the car quality body repair is probably the most expensive thing. If it was me, I always like for the seller to put it up on a lift so I can get a good look at the underside of the car. If it has major rot and is a "Flintstone-mobile" you may want to reconsider. If the body isn't too bad, buy it, put it together, get it running, and drive the wheels off of it!

[MOPAR FANATIC]

The first E-body I bought was a '72 Challenger "R/T". Okay, it was really a Challenger "Rallye" but I thought it was an "R/T" for the longest time - what did I know - I was only 19 at the time. For some reason Dodge dropped the "R/T" moniker after '71; maybe it was because of the insurance industry? Anyway, in '72 the "performance" model of the Challenger changed from "R/T" to "Rallye". Same stuff just a different name. If it's a base model Challenger the VIN would start with "JH" and if it's a "Rallye" it should start with "JS".

At this point it probably doesn't really matter what it was originally. Base model? Rallye? Neither of them came with a big-block in '72. Probably the most important thin as some of the guys have said is to make sure the body is fairly solid. Depending on what you want to do with the car quality body repair is probably the most expensive thing. If it was me, I always like for the seller to put it up on a lift so I can get a good look at the underside of the car. If it has major rot and is a "Flintstone-mobile" you may want to reconsider. If the body isn't too bad, buy it, put it together, get it running, and drive the wheels off of it!

  HIT it on the nose with this post,right on. 

[Kato1]

Oh i see nw. Yeah just got the vin# J H23H2B363735 im looking to keep it for a bit then sale. The owner said engine is blue printed and stuff. Ok so if its not rusted out is 8500 a good price?

[Jamiez]

Some of the documentation (the braking distance sheets) still listed Rallye cars as R/T's back in early 72.  It's possible he could be basing his ad off that.

[4Cruizn]

With all the parts you have mentioned . . . and the car  . . . I don't think $8500 is a bad price!   

[anlauto]

If the frame and floors look solid, it's a great deal...
Keep in mind it will cost at least another $8500 to finish it and put it on the road