Anybody try CONTROL FREAK front and or rear suspension ? http://www.freakride.com/2013_mopar.pdf
How does it compare in price to the others ?
The "control freak" suspension is just a backwards engineered RMS set up. In fact, the guy that came out with the freak ride suspension actually BOUGHT one of Bill's kits and used it to design his. I don't recall all the details, a magazine article may also have been involved. Anyway, I wouldn't use it on principle, regardless of quality or price. It was straight up stolen from RMS.
As far as RMS vs the stock suspension, there's no reason a torsion bar suspended mopar can't keep up with one that's been converted to coil overs. The coil over suspension is easier to tune and offers a bit more room for headers, but that's about it. A properly rebuilt torsion bar suspension is more than capable of speeds of 100+. After all, the first
200 mph car for NASCAR was a 1970 Dodge Charger Daytona, and you better believe it had a torsion bar suspension.
You don't even need to spend all the money on a Hotchkis set up. While nice, the Hotchkis TVR includes a lot of stuff that isn't absolutely needed, and is missing some things I would definitely suggest installing. Do this instead...
-Completely rebuild front end- new bushings (UCA and LCA), ball joints, tie rod ends, pitman & idler
-7103 Moog offset UCA bushings w/ stock UCA’s
-1”- 1.06” torsion bars
-Front and rear sway bars (Helwig or Hotchkis w/ adjustable rear bar)
-Bilstein RCD or Fox shocks
-Alignment: -.5* camber, +3 to +5 caster, 1/16” to 1/8” toe in
-17 or 18” rims with modern performance tires, 245 or wider
-Flaming River steering box or Borgeson/Delphi 600 power steering (
http://bergmanautocraft.com/)
-Adjustable strut rods
-Solid tubular tie rod adjusters (9/16” tie rod ends ok with upgraded adjuster, PST has a great price on these)
-XHD rear springs or equivalent (~130lb rear leaf springs)
-Sub-frame connectors
And for extra handling improvement, stiffen up the chassis
-reinforce K member (seam weld, gusset steering box)
-reinforce lower control arms
-torque boxes
-tubular radiator support
-XV style inner fender braces (shock tower to firewall)
I'd skip on the most of the parts with heim joints for a street driven car simple because they wear out MUCH faster than bushings, and unless you're really competing the difference is hard to notice. The exception above that I have is the adjustable strut rods, which come in especially handy for tuning in aftermarket polyurethane lower control arm bushings. Or even making sure the replacement rubber stuff is actually in the right place and not binding.
If you did everything above, you would have an extremely well handling Mopar.
