Author Topic: 1970 Challenger R/T  (Read 19846 times)

Offline Edison1970

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Re: 1970 Challenger R/T
« Reply #15 on: October 20, 2013 - 05:39:48 AM »
Those look like hooker super comps. If they are, they made to come a part. The drivers back tube comes off for easy starter
Removal.




Offline Dr. Feelgood

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Re: 1970 Challenger R/T
« Reply #16 on: October 20, 2013 - 08:15:07 AM »
A JH car with a N engine code has the 383 4 bbl emblems on the fenders.  It was not an R/T.  A JS car with an N engine code is an R/T.  It has the 383 Magnum emblems on the magnum hood.  Is your car a JH or JS car?

It is a JS car and never had 383 4bbl emblems on the fenders. I just found those emblems online and thought they went on the hood.

Thanks! :)

Offline Dr. Feelgood

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Re: 1970 Challenger R/T
« Reply #17 on: October 20, 2013 - 08:16:26 AM »
Those look like hooker super comps. If they are, they made to come a part. The drivers back tube comes off for easy starter
Removal.

Thanks for the info!

Offline hemiken

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Re: 1970 Challenger R/T
« Reply #18 on: October 21, 2013 - 08:17:03 PM »
Have you got a lot of options on your fender tag  :2thumbs:
1970 Barracuda   (O^--^===|===^--^O)
1971 Barracuda   (O O {]{]{]|[}[}[} O O)
1970 Challenger  (O O [======R/T=] O O)
1971 Challenger  (O O ===== ===== O O)
I pay homage to the best Mopars ever built.

Offline Dr. Feelgood

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Re: 1970 Challenger R/T
« Reply #19 on: October 21, 2013 - 09:29:32 PM »
Have you got a lot of options on your fender tag  :2thumbs:

N42 - chrome exhaust tips
N85 - tachometer
R11 - radio am
V9X - bumble bee paint stripes
Y07 - Canada specs
C55 - bucket seats
G36 - o/s racing mirrors
J45 - hood pins
J54 - sport hood
M21 - drip mouldings
N41 - dual exhaust
V1X - full vinyl roof
A01 - light package
A62 - Rallye instruments
B51 - power brakes
C16 - console

Haven't figured out the following yet:
FN1
A17
H6X9
000

:dunno:

Offline Dr. Feelgood

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Re: 1970 Challenger R/T
« Reply #20 on: October 22, 2013 - 09:49:10 AM »
3- Passenger side rear quarter window does not roll up all the way and seems loose. Once it gets about halfway rolled up the crank just keeps skipping. I'll have to pull off the panel and have a look.
Some people suggested they could be dirty, others suggested to replace the rollers.
Have this kit on the way hoping it will help:

Offline Dr. Feelgood

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Re: 1970 Challenger R/T
« Reply #21 on: October 22, 2013 - 08:56:23 PM »
Looking for a rear quarter window regulator and found this on Yearone....it looks the same but the description suggests its for the door... Sent them an email asking for clarification.

https://www.yearone.com/Product/1966-74-a-b-e-body/rq6rh

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: 1970 Challenger R/T
« Reply #22 on: October 23, 2013 - 08:24:51 AM »
N42 - chrome exhaust tips
N85 - tachometer
R11 - radio am
V9X - bumble bee paint stripes
Y07 - Canada specs
C55 - bucket seats
G36 - o/s racing mirrors
J45 - hood pins
J54 - sport hood
M21 - drip mouldings
N41 - dual exhaust
V1X - full vinyl roof
A01 - light package
A62 - Rallye instruments
B51 - power brakes
C16 - console

Haven't figured out the following yet:
FN1 - EN1 - end line 1
A17 - build date - oct 17
H6X9 - interior - black vinyl buckets
000 - interior paint code , nothing is exposed so 000

:dunno:

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: 1970 Challenger R/T
« Reply #23 on: October 23, 2013 - 08:26:31 AM »
if the regulator is skipping it will probably have to be replaced as the teeth are worn but cleaning & lubing the slides may help enough if the reg is not too badly damaged

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t

Offline Dr. Feelgood

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Re: 1970 Challenger R/T
« Reply #24 on: October 23, 2013 - 09:19:05 AM »
if the regulator is skipping it will probably have to be replaced as the teeth are worn but cleaning & lubing the slides may help enough if the reg is not too badly damaged

Took a look at it and the teeth look good, everything is lubed really well. Only thing that looks odd is the big half circle gear wanders off the crank gear at a certain point. Maybe it's bent..... yanking it out tonight and will try and get it going. Also sent an inquiry to DVA to see if they have one for sale.
Thanks and thanks for the de-coding!  :2thumbs: You must know codes by memory by now eh?

Offline hemiken

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Re: 1970 Challenger R/T
« Reply #25 on: October 24, 2013 - 03:21:21 AM »
N42 - chrome exhaust tips
N85 - tachometer
R11 - radio am
V9X - bumble bee paint stripe - Black
Y07 - Canada specs
C55 - bucket seats
G36 - o/s racing mirrors
J45 - hood pins
J54 - sport hood
M21 - drip mouldings
N41 - dual exhaust
V1X - full vinyl roof - Black
A01 - light package
A62 - Rallye instruments
B51 - power brakes
C16 - console

Haven't figured out the following yet:
FN1 - EN1 - end line 1
A17 - build date - oct 17
H6X9 - interior - High priced bucket seats black vinyl
000 - interior paint code , nothing is exposed so 000


+ N85 R11 V9X Y07 EN1 +
G36 J45 J54 M21 N41 N42
V1X A01 A62 B51 C16 C55
FE5 H6X9 000 A17 ******
E63 D36 JS23 N0B ******
« Last Edit: October 24, 2013 - 03:23:40 AM by hemiken »
1970 Barracuda   (O^--^===|===^--^O)
1971 Barracuda   (O O {]{]{]|[}[}[} O O)
1970 Challenger  (O O [======R/T=] O O)
1971 Challenger  (O O ===== ===== O O)
I pay homage to the best Mopars ever built.

Offline Dr. Feelgood

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Re: 1970 Challenger R/T
« Reply #26 on: December 13, 2013 - 03:35:24 PM »
The rear suspension looks almost new but I can't help but think it looks lower than it should. Someone mentioned that the rear leafs might be "Mopar Performance" which have a habit of sagging pretty quickly.


Thoughts? :dunno:

Also while I have you here... does the T/A sit higher than the R/T?


Edit....
Found this on Wiki
Quote
The T/A was the first U.S. muscle car to fit different size tires front and rear to give a racing stance: E60x15 in the front, and G60x15 in the rear. The modified chamber elevated the tail enough to clear the rear rubber and its side exhaust outlets.


No idea what it means by modified chamber   :dunno:
« Last Edit: December 17, 2013 - 03:23:38 PM by Dr. Feelgood »

Offline Dr. Feelgood

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Re: 1970 Challenger R/T
« Reply #27 on: February 13, 2014 - 10:22:33 AM »
Update:
-Got the wheels okay from Year One and they appear to be perfect. I still have to decide between reproduction polyglass of Eagle GTs...
-Stopped by the shop to drop off some parts and chatted with the owner for a while. Everything went well and I met the guy who will be painting the car. We picked out the paint (1970 B5 Blue) as well as discussed the tail stripe. Seems like a pretty well known colour.
-So far they've welded up a few pin holes in a few areas and the new front fenders are in.
-Waiting for the Rallye hood to arrive and rear lower quarters.
-He suggested re-skinning the doors as there is a little bit of rust starting from the pinch seams. We took a look at them and I did see what he was referring to. We could cut out/grind off/fill but seeing as though this car is going to be a driver and will be seeing cottage roads and parked on grass and left in rain storms etc... it's best to go with a fresh skin otherwise there's a chance the rust will sneak back and bubble the paint. So I said yes to the new skins.

Engine still has to come out but here are a few pics. I think it held up pretty well since last being re-done in 1987:






Does anyone have anything bad to say about the injection moulded door panels from Year One?

Offline usraptr

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Re: 1970 Challenger R/T
« Reply #28 on: February 13, 2014 - 11:41:00 PM »
Good luck!   :2thumbs:
1970 Plymouth 'Cuda.  Matching numbers 440 U Code, 4 speed pistol grip, Rallye dash, AM 8 Track, Shaker hood, 15 inch rallye wheels, Dana 60 4.10, Super Track Pak.  One of 134 - 440 "U" coupes codes built in 1970 and one of 100 - 440 Super Track Paks built in 1970.

Restoration pictures at:  http://spanks4thememory.smugmug.com/Cars/70-Cuda/7240639_M24oi#465274575_2MBqW
(Edited 8-1-17)

"usraptr" = United States raptor - bird of prey = United States Bald Eagle.  FYI, somebody else thought of it first so I had to drop the "O" in raptor.

Offline Rare_T_A

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Re: 1970 Challenger R/T
« Reply #29 on: February 18, 2014 - 09:44:59 AM »
That picture you posted of where it is cracked, looks to me as a cut, that will have no bearing on anything at all towards a leak where that cut is, sometimes the header plate is cut in that location from the manufacturer to allow flex of the header pipes when installing and removing. You will not get any gain from taking these pipes off, they look fine to me. Perhaps it is a simple change of exhaust gaskets that will cure the leak :2thumbs:
See, i am saving you money already :money:

Totally agree!! Sweet Challenger by the way!
'09 Challenger R/T  5.7 HEMI Auto
'70Challenger T/A 340 727

Fargo, N. Dak.
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