Author Topic: 70 Challenger going Plum Crazy  (Read 38404 times)

Offline dakota

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Re: 70 Challenger going Plum Crazy
« Reply #60 on: December 05, 2015 - 08:30:18 PM »
The replacement harness for the A/C is still on back order. 

I guess they're getting caught up.   The a/c harness was delivered today.




Offline anlauto

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Re: 70 Challenger going Plum Crazy
« Reply #61 on: December 05, 2015 - 09:26:55 PM »
I guess they're getting caught up.   The a/c harness was delivered today.
I just ordered 15 harnesses last week and 11 of them have already been delivered :cooldancing:
I've taught you everything you know.....but I haven't taught you everything I know !
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Offline dakota

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Re: 70 Challenger going Plum Crazy
« Reply #62 on: December 12, 2015 - 09:35:31 PM »
I spent some time today working on a broken piece of interior trim.   This is a long piece (maybe 3 feet long) that goes along the bottom of the dash.   I haven't been able to find a replacement piece, so I ended up going through a couple of YouTube videos about plastic welding.  This one was pretty good:

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fP3yW-hqFng

I used the soldering iron on the backside approach to spot weld the pieces together, then make a trough, then fold the ridges of the trough inward to fill the crack.  The approach seemed to work pretty well in terms of pulling the pieces together.   The crack is still visible, but I don't think it'll be that obvious once it's installed (I will know it's looking at me every time I'm in the car, but that's a different issue).  There was another post on c-c.com about using Alginate molding resin to make a copy of the texture for a more complete repair which I'll follow if the crack bugs me too much.

Offline usraptr

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Re: 70 Challenger going Plum Crazy
« Reply #63 on: December 14, 2015 - 11:35:06 PM »
I caught up on your last several posts and had to laugh when I saw the picture of your "curled" putty knife used to take of the undercoating in the rear wheel-wells.  I have one that looks exactly like that from doing the same thing.   :dogpile:  Anyway, nice job on overall.  I'm looking forward to more updates.
1970 Plymouth 'Cuda.  Matching numbers 440 U Code, 4 speed pistol grip, Rallye dash, AM 8 Track, Shaker hood, 15 inch rallye wheels, Dana 60 4.10, Super Track Pak.  One of 134 - 440 "U" coupes codes built in 1970 and one of 100 - 440 Super Track Paks built in 1970.

Restoration pictures at:  http://spanks4thememory.smugmug.com/Cars/70-Cuda/7240639_M24oi#465274575_2MBqW
(Edited 8-1-17)

"usraptr" = United States raptor - bird of prey = United States Bald Eagle.  FYI, somebody else thought of it first so I had to drop the "O" in raptor.

Offline Brillo1974

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Re: 70 Challenger going Plum Crazy
« Reply #64 on: December 16, 2015 - 08:48:54 AM »
Wish I would have known you were doing this before, I would have recommended you use this.  http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/tools/Applicators/Caulk-Sealants/plastic-welder-22045-25ml-syringe?infoParam.campaignId=T9F&gclid=CJKh3eu_4MkCFQiKaQodm3kE5A If you heat plastic it will crystalize it and make it more brittle if it gets too hot. I used this Devcon plastic weld on my batwing fairings when installing them on my bikes and also to repair cracks. I welded bolt heads on the backsides of the fairings to relocate the mounting brackets I made. This stuff actually melts into the plastic, I never had a bolt come loose or crack from the fairing even at 130 mph.  :grinno:  If you want you could still grind off your weld and make a valley in the crack to use this stuff yet. I highly recommend this stuff to anyone that has cracks parts, consoles or whatever.
Trump.... The Voice of the AMERICAN People!

Offline dakota

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Re: 70 Challenger going Plum Crazy
« Reply #65 on: December 22, 2015 - 07:32:25 PM »
An early Christmas present:  the re-chromed shift lever showed up today.   Advanced Plating in Nashville did the work.  It turned out great.   Completion took about 6 weeks door-to-door.

Offline TelisSE440

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Re: 70 Challenger going Plum Crazy
« Reply #66 on: December 23, 2015 - 05:32:45 PM »
Worth the wait. It turned out great !

Offline 70chall440

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Re: 70 Challenger going Plum Crazy
« Reply #67 on: December 23, 2015 - 05:35:16 PM »
How are you going to reattach the top bezel?
Current Mopar
70 Challenger RT 440-6 EFI, 73 Cuda 416-6 EFI
05 Hemi Durango, 01 Ram 4x4, 14 Ram 2500 4X4, 10 PCP Challenger 6 spd RT, 01 Viper GTS ACR, 52 B3B w/330 Desoto Hemi, 70 Hemi RR (under const)
Past Mopars
9 x Challengers. AAR Cuda, 4 RR, 2 GTX, 4 Chargers, etc... (too many to list)

Offline dakota

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Re: 70 Challenger going Plum Crazy
« Reply #68 on: December 23, 2015 - 07:39:10 PM »
How are you going to reattach the top bezel?

Not sure yet. I may try to deform the metal on the top of the lever to recreate what was there originally. I've read a couple of posts about this bezel having an annoying rattle, so some epoxy glue may be part of the solution too.  I'm open to other suggestions if anyone has them.

Offline 70chall440

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Re: 70 Challenger going Plum Crazy
« Reply #69 on: December 23, 2015 - 07:51:52 PM »
Not sure there are a lot of options, glue or deformation of the tang; perhaps both is the answer and what I think I would do.
Current Mopar
70 Challenger RT 440-6 EFI, 73 Cuda 416-6 EFI
05 Hemi Durango, 01 Ram 4x4, 14 Ram 2500 4X4, 10 PCP Challenger 6 spd RT, 01 Viper GTS ACR, 52 B3B w/330 Desoto Hemi, 70 Hemi RR (under const)
Past Mopars
9 x Challengers. AAR Cuda, 4 RR, 2 GTX, 4 Chargers, etc... (too many to list)

Offline dakota

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Re: 70 Challenger going Plum Crazy
« Reply #70 on: December 23, 2015 - 10:06:24 PM »
Almost finished rebuilding the shifter.   "Almost" applies because I managed to store the pivot bolt and bridge plate in a place so secure and safe that I can't find them.  For now, I have to set the shifter aside while waiting for another parts delivery from Brewster's Performance.   I really hate when I lose stuff, especially when I know I will find it later but only after the new parts are installed.   Then again, if this is the worst thing that happens to me today, life is good.

I replaced all of the shims inside the shift head.   The shim that was supposed to be "wavy" wasn't... it was mostly flat and the ends were actually curled up a bit.  It almost looks like this was a homemade replacement that didn't fit quite right.   There was a difference between the internal pattern of the old and new shims.   The folks at Brewster's confirmed that the new shims represent an upgrade that will work fine.   In particular, the small tab on the old shim that serves as a gate for reverse (pic 1213) tended to bend and hang up the shifter when going into reverse (I definitely had that problem).   There was wear evident on the head of the selector pin, so a new one went it.  Same with the shifter sleeve.

A "what the hell was I thinking?" moment was not ordering a pair of replacement tension pins.   I thought I would reuse the old ones.   Bad choice, as they were mostly loose in the new selector pin.   Fortunately, I was able to find the right ones at a local hardware store, but burning $4 worth of gas to buy $0.80 worth of parts is probably not the best way to spend money.
 
A couple of years ago, SLSC98 posted some links to very useful short rebuild videos that can be found in this thread:

http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=89599.msg905945#msg905945   

I would add the following video as a good "how to" reference:   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=huUETRzXM7k

There are different shifters used in each video, so it's possible that what you see won't match what you're working on.   If there was ever a task that benefits from lots of up close pictures as the work progresses, this rebuild would be one (no, I didn't take enough).   For example, there were some subtle shape differences between the left and right edge of the shims (one edge has a slight curve, the other has a flat spot) that I didn't notice until the reassembly started.  The videos aren't always clear enough to tell which way the piece goes in.  Also, setting the plates that do the shifting in the right orientation can be a pain without a ready reference.   Other than removing what was once grease from the shifter innards, getting the shims and plates set in the correct orientation seemed like it took the most time.

I followed the advice of the gentleman in the "how to" video and didn't try to remove/replace either of the springs in the carrier.  I got too aggressive with the shifter on a previous project car and was only rescued from my stupidity by a sympathetic machinist who put it all back together for me for free.

With lots of good pictures for reference, this would be a relatively quick and straightforward clean up.

Although the shifter isn't going to show much, I wanted to put some paint on it.   About that time, I saw a post from Alan G about the Seymour Silver for painting bare metal, so that's what I did.   I'm happy with the result.

« Last Edit: December 24, 2015 - 08:42:37 AM by dakota »

Offline 70chall440

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Re: 70 Challenger going Plum Crazy
« Reply #71 on: December 24, 2015 - 12:38:22 AM »
Very nice  :wow:
Current Mopar
70 Challenger RT 440-6 EFI, 73 Cuda 416-6 EFI
05 Hemi Durango, 01 Ram 4x4, 14 Ram 2500 4X4, 10 PCP Challenger 6 spd RT, 01 Viper GTS ACR, 52 B3B w/330 Desoto Hemi, 70 Hemi RR (under const)
Past Mopars
9 x Challengers. AAR Cuda, 4 RR, 2 GTX, 4 Chargers, etc... (too many to list)

Offline TelisSE440

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Re: 70 Challenger going Plum Crazy
« Reply #72 on: December 24, 2015 - 08:23:19 AM »
I used the you tube video too, to learn about cleaning the Hurst shifter, but i didn't paint it  :banghead: Yours turned out great, like new !

Offline dakota

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Re: 70 Challenger going Plum Crazy
« Reply #73 on: December 30, 2015 - 07:29:19 AM »
There's been a little more progress.   This photo should be titled "Family Affair".   I made several spectacularly unsuccessful attempts to repaint the letters on the heater controls.   My hand just wasn't steady enough to avoid putting white paint where it didn't belong, so I ended up getting lots of practice at removing and reapplying the background paint (Herb's black interior) with a heat gun and a dental pick.  Fortunately, my oldest son has been visiting us.  He asked to take a shot at painting the letters.   I think he did a great job.  The other need was to recreate the chrome color on the outside edge.   Several different versions of plastic model paint (Testors and Model Master) ended up being too dull.   My wife suggested trying chrome nail polish.   So there we are in a "Ulta"  store comparing different chrome nail polishes like some twisted version of Goldilocks and the 3 Bears : "This is has too much glitter" or "this one is too dull" before we found "this one looks just right". For the record, NONE of the nail polish ended up on my fingernails or toenails.

The little white thing in the picture that looks like a mini Q tip is from a package of paint swabs that I bought in the modeling section at Hobby Lobby.   These worked really well as an alternative to using a brush on the lettering and reapplying the chrome trim color to the dash pieces.

I've tried to do as much of the work on my car myself as I can, sometimes to the point of stupidity, so accepting some help was a good change of pace.  I'm sure a professionally reconditioned piece would look better (it should for the $250 price tag), but I like how this turned out and, more importantly, have a memory that will bring a little smile to my face every time I look at the heater control going forward.

P.S.:  Sorry about the picture rotation.   If one of you can point me (again) towards the guidance on how to fix it, I promise I will pay attention this time.
« Last Edit: December 30, 2015 - 07:35:14 AM by dakota »

Offline dave73chally

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Re: 70 Challenger going Plum Crazy
« Reply #74 on: December 30, 2015 - 08:29:44 AM »
I spent some time today working on a broken piece of interior trim.   This is a long piece (maybe 3 feet long) that goes along the bottom of the dash.   I haven't been able to find a replacement piece, so I ended up going through a couple of YouTube videos about plastic welding.  This one was pretty good:

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fP3yW-hqFng

I used the soldering iron on the backside approach to spot weld the pieces together, then make a trough, then fold the ridges of the trough inward to fill the crack.  The approach seemed to work pretty well in terms of pulling the pieces together.   The crack is still visible, but I don't think it'll be that obvious once it's installed (I will know it's looking at me every time I'm in the car, but that's a different issue).  There was another post on c-c.com about using Alginate molding resin to make a copy of the texture for a more complete repair which I'll follow if the crack bugs me too much.

I did the same for a broken grill I had. I've seen some people use black caulk or some kind of filler to fill the crack in the front, sand smooth then spray with sem trim black and you may never notice it was ever there.
73 Challenger
512 / 4spd / Hotchkis & QA1 Suspension