Engine problems

[rattlesnake]

So I go out the other day to start the barracuda and it runs like crap. Seemed to be running rich, so I figured choke problems, new car new engine. I only needed to move it so I did and figured I would mess with it later. I go out this morning to try and go through the timing sequence I got from Chryco. Car won't start at all. It just wants to spit and sputter, no backfiring or popping just firing every once in a while. I have a Mallory unitlite distributor, the literature said when the infrared circuit is broke (using a credit card)the voltage should drop below 3 volts, mine only dropped to 4 but did jump back up to 12 when the circuit was completed again. Other than that every thing looks good. I know you are all saying well this could a number of things. But give me some ideas on the most obvious thing to look at first. The engine spins good it just won't take off.  ideas please!

[72cudamaan]

Is the choke working properly? How did it run when you moved it yesterday? Maybe the choke is closed.

[cudabob496]

spark plug wires going to correct cylinders?

[HP_Cuda]

The unilite also needs a ballast resistor. I have one on my other car and I believe it's supposed to keep it somewhere around 7.2-9 Volts.

It's possible you need to change it out or at least check it.

B

[RzeroB]

Almost sounds flooded? Who knows?

I always like to start with the usual suspects - air, fuel and spark

1. pull and check a spark plug - is it wet or dry?
2. remove the air cleaner and ensure the choke is working properly for a cold start. If spark plug is wet appy flooded start procedure - throttle fully depressed while cranking (ensure the choke is opened). If spark plug is dry ensure choke is closing properly, pump throttle and reattempt start.
3. if spark plug is dry, look down carb throttle bore and ensure pump squirter is squirting when throttle linkage is depressed. If not try dribbling gas into the carb with an eye-dropper (use appropriate caution while handling a volatile flammable liquid like gasoline) and reattempt start. If engine starts then dies investigate why pump squirter is not squirting - does carb have gas in it? If not is fuel pump working properly?
4. check for spark by grounding a spark plug against exhaust manifold and crank engine. If no spark check coil output by inserting plug wire and plug into coil, grounding spark plug against manifold and crank engine. If no spark check ballast resistor. If no spark check primary wiring to coil, distributor and ECU.

Sounds almost condescending I know. Ockham's Razor applied here where the simplest explanation is probably the most accurate one.   

[rattlesnake]

When I started it this morning it did run for a short while, ran real rich. The carb has an electric choke which was closed on start up. While it was running I knew I needed to get the choke off. When I got out of the car to open the choke the car died. I adjusted the choke to full open but it would not start again. I noticed later I had something leaking out of the header collector, I am guessing raw fuel. So now I am thinking it is just extremely flooded. Letting it sit and I'll try it later tonight. B, I did install a resistor on the unilite. I tested the resistor on the coil side it has just short of just short of 12 volts. If it is flooded this bad will holding the throttle to the floor still work? I just hate cranking this thing this much when it has only been run less than an hour after rebuild. Any other ideas on getting it unflooded, (if thats the problem)

[RzeroB]

Sounds like you are on the right path with the carb and particularly the choke. Ensure that the full choke "pull off" (or whatever it's "official" name is) is functioning properly - when the throttel is fully openend it should open the choke part way.

For extreme flooding you can remove ALL the spark plugs, crank engine to expell excess fuel, dry spark plugs with compressed air, reinstall spark plugs and attempt to start. If you are not in a hurry, leave the spark plugs out longer to allow excess fuel to evaporate.

[HP_Cuda]

One of the easiest ways I've found is to take a good known carb and just throw it on there and see what happens.

Sounds like your floats are sticking or you have had some major carb changes lately somehow.

B

[rattlesnake]

Update,
Removed plugs, dried them off, cranked the engine 3 or 4 X, blew compressed air into the plug holes and into the open headers.  Pumped three X and it fired up. Ran like crap but at least it was running. Monkeyed with the timing and got it at least consistent. Ran it up to ABOUT 3000 rpm after warming. Threw the light on it and advanced distributor until the mark I made on the balancer (2 and 3/8 from TDC) lined up with the 0 degree mark. Then I realized my timing light is an advanced light. So i dialed it to 36* and it was right on the money. Went to my daughters basketball practice came back 2 hours later. Hit the gas 2X and it fired and ran like a champ. One thing is for sure though this cam is more than I bargained for. Since I am on the tail end of a 5 year restore on this 70 I think I will wait and change it out later.  Still need to dial in the choke, it is adjustable so I will have to figure that out. Zero, HP, cudamaan and cudabob. Thanks a bunch for your time and reeling me in a little bit to look at the simple things first. A lesson I need to learn badly. until next time, apreciatcha

Ray,

[72cudamaan]

Update,
Removed plugs, dried them off, cranked the engine 3 or 4 X, blew compressed air into the plug holes and into the open headers.  Pumped three X and it fired up. Ran like crap but at least it was running. Monkeyed with the timing and got it at least consistent. Ran it up to ABOUT 3000 rpm after warming. Threw the light on it and advanced distributor until the mark I made on the balancer (2 and 3/8 from TDC) lined up with the 0 degree mark. Then I realized my timing light is an advanced light. So i dialed it to 36* and it was right on the money. Went to my daughters basketball practice came back 2 hours later. Hit the gas 2X and it fired and ran like a champ. One thing is for sure though this cam is more than I bargained for. Since I am on the tail end of a 5 year restore on this 70 I think I will wait and change it out later.  Still need to dial in the choke, it is adjustable so I will have to figure that out. Zero, HP, cudamaan and cudabob. Thanks a bunch for your time and reeling me in a little bit to look at the simple things first. A lesson I need to learn badly. until next time, apreciatcha

Ray,

    Glad it's turning out to be easy.

[HP_Cuda]

 

Glad it worked out for ya.